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engine rebuild questions

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Old 11-17-2013, 08:44 PM
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Default engine rebuild questions

I have a 1995 dodge ram 4x4 with a 360 that has a tired engine. I want to put a little bit bigger cam than what cam stock. I don't want to have to change springs or have problems with the computer any info would be great thanks.
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:58 PM
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Several folks make cams that don't require higher lift... but, given that you describe the engine as "tired", you can bet that the valve springs in there are as well. Considering what you are going to spend on a cam, another 100 bucks or so for new springs would be a wise investment.

Look for cams that are 'computer friendly' and do NOT require reprogramming. (they are out there. ) As you have a 95, you options in that realm are extremely limited. Might also want to look for a mopar performance PCM. That will widen your cam choice somewhat, and will give a nice kick in and of itself.

If you are going to tear the engine down, be warned in advance that it is highly likely that your heads are cracked between the valve seats. (lousy castings from the factory.) Spending money on the stockers is a waste. There are better made castings available out there. (clearwater, and odessa.) You can probably figure around 600 for some stock replacements.

How many miles on your current motor? Fixed the plenum yet?
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:06 PM
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There is 222000 or so miles on it I just bought it a year ago or so I havent done anything to it
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:11 PM
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Oh.

read the plenum sticky at the top of this forum first. Then, do a compression check, see what the numbers look like. (dry first, then wet)

If compression numbers are decent, you might be able to do a bit of work, and drive it a few thousand more miles before a rebuild is absolutely necessary.

By the way, Welcome to DF!
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:15 PM
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Thanks for the welcome im ready for the rebuild it doesnt have the power it should and its got water disappearing the truck dont smoke and no leaks but I have to put water in about once a week and it leaks oil preaty bad
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:35 PM
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I looked on e bay at the aluminum plenum is it just the plate or is it more it said it was $60 or so just curious
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:03 PM
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Plate and bolts. Get your gaskets locally.

The mystery coolant loss... yeah, familiar with that. I think it is one of the freeze plugs in the back of the motor. (cleverly concealed by the trans....) I have the same problem, but, not quite to as great of an extent. Freeze plugs in these motors are steel from the factory. They weren't real strategically placed, and get crap trapped against them, and they rust out, and start leaking. Generally only under pressure. Took quite a while before a couple of them started leaking enough I could actually FIND the leak.... Bypass hose from water pump to intake manifold is also famous for leaking..... coolant pools on top of the timing cover, so, you can't see it.... and it really doesn't drip that much. Such fun.

What kind of budget do you have for this particular project?
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:17 AM
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Ok so the plate is what I need ive never been in to these trucks very far never had to I do know there is a lot of oil coming from the rear main and it could be water also im on a tight budget im just buying stuff as I go and when I get everything imgona pull it out I have a friend that will vat the block for me and make sure everything is ok with it he is also going to do a valve job for me I pretty much know what to do I just dont know what to replace im doing a cam (wether stock or a little over) timing chain oil pump water pump and of course rering kit
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:52 AM
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If you can swing it, you really should simply replace the heads. They were problematic when they were new.

Cam
Timing set.
Valve springs. (if you don't replace the heads)
Rings and bearings.
Oil pump.
gaskets and seals. (of course)
Anything else that looks questionable on disassembly.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:26 PM
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So I should do valve springs regardless
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:59 PM
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Yes. They get weaker over time. And if everything else is gonna be new, no point screwing it up with old valve springs.
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:49 PM
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Ok ill add that to my list
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:05 PM
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Do yall think it could be just the plenum gasket is thee power loss problem it runs good other than power and the slight shake at idle
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselsuburban95 View Post
Do yall think it could be just the plenum gasket is thee power loss problem it runs good other than power and the slight shake at idle
certainly could be a leading factor, especially if it's never been addressed. Do a compression check like hey you said before and see where you stand there, and that'll give you an idea of what else could be tired. report back with your numbers, wet and dry!
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:56 PM
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Ok im starting to rethink the whole rebuild thing right now lots of money im now thinking plenum and clean throdle body and see where that goes
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselsuburban95 View Post
Ok im starting to rethink the whole rebuild thing right now lots of money im now thinking plenum and clean throdle body and see where that goes
Plenum fix, timing chain and gears, (water pump optional, but, it's gotta come off for the chain and gears anyway) full tune up, throttle body clean. Take it from there. Can do all that for under 300, if you don't have to pay someone else to do it.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:11 PM
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I can do it all myself thats not a problem I think ill try that first
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:53 PM
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Unless I missed it, I don't think the CAT and O2 sensor have been mentioned yet.
At those miles, it should be on its 3rd CAT by now, and due for another soon... a clogged CAT will surely hamper performance.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:00 PM
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No cat its been cleaned by previous owner and has a flow master muffler I dont know about the o2 senser
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:01 PM
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It runs great just no guts
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:01 PM
 
 
 
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