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Project time... Various questions.

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Old 05-01-2014, 08:30 PM
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Default Project time... Various questions.

Hey guys.

I'm in the middle of doing my intake gaskets, double roller chain and gaskets, rear main seal, oil pan replacement and a few other odd n ends.. I know I will have some questions when I get to the double roller so I figured I would start my thread now since I already found a few things I feel might be a problem.

So basically this thread is going to cover multiple things.... First is....

Cap & Rotor. These are the Echlins (spelling) from NAPA. I just installed them around December and they already look like this.. Take a look at the rotor button also, the shiny spot on the face of it is also sharp to the touch.















In December when I did the work, I did the Cap n Rotor, Pick up coil, Plugs, Wires and coil.. So it was all new, at the same time. Ive never seen any look like this after only a few months... Do I have a problem I am unaware of?
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:40 PM
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Lots o' carbon there..... is your PCV system functioning properly? I don't recall if there is a seal in the distributor to isolate it from the crank case. Don't think there is.... just some bushings around the shaft.
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:21 PM
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I believe it is working properly, the little ball in the PCV shakes and rattles and hoses don't look bad. but yes, lots of carbon, has me wondering...

think I should clean up the contacts w/sandpaper or just see if NAPA would warranty them out? I wonder if the pick up coil could have anything to do with it since that piece is a different brand, from advance auto, not napa.


I'm not sure if you remember my 99 Ram and the thread titled, valve cover gasket nightmare (I think it was), I am just thankful the internals on my 98 ram is no where near the condition of the 99. Owners before me took pretty good care of it.








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Old 05-01-2014, 10:23 PM
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Pushing 150k miles and all OEM gaskets.. Mopar stamped. Yup, been time to change them i'd say.

well minus the valve cover gaskets, someone changed them at some point obviously..
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:32 AM
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I wouldn't hold my breath on the warranty thing for the cap/rotor......

Pickup in the dist shouldn't have anything to do with it. It's just a hall effect switch..... If it works, that's all you really care about.

Where did you get your PCV valve from? The aftermarket fellers aren't always the correct flow rate, dealer valve is less than 10 bucks..... (that's where I got mine.)

Is your distributor cap vented? Is the vent clear?
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
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I wouldn't hold my breath on the warranty thing for the cap/rotor......

Pickup in the dist shouldn't have anything to do with it. It's just a hall effect switch..... If it works, that's all you really care about.

Where did you get your PCV valve from? The aftermarket fellers aren't always the correct flow rate, dealer valve is less than 10 bucks..... (that's where I got mine.)

Is your distributor cap vented? Is the vent clear?
PCV is a dealer one.

Yes the cap is vented, i'll check to make sure it is clear when I head outside.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:50 PM
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I pulled my plugs to take a look at them, still looking new.. I checked the gap and I was pushing .050 instead of .040.. could that have caused all the build up and stuff on the cap and rotor?

Anywho, took them up to napa and the guy couldn't believe the way it looked within only a few months so he swapped them out for new ones. The guys there are pretty laid back and easy to deal with..

Question time..

Tomorrow I am going to remove the harmonic balancer to get to the timing chain.. Is there anyway to check if that is on its way out? I noticed a little play/wobble before while inspecting things, but other than that, anything else I should look for?


I have never had to TDC a engine before, It seems pretty simple I guess.. Put my rotor button back on, turn the crank till the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug and Im at TDC?
- The crank turns clockwise correct?
- Is there a way to check if it is 180 out of timing before reassembly? just in case.

Sorry for the "dumb questions". never had to mess with timing and even balancers before. I'm sure the questions wont end here.
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:23 AM
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For the timing set, just line up the dots on the gears before removal. Then install the new ones in the same orientation. Don't make it harder than it really is.

if the outer ring on the harmonic balancer is loose/sloppy in any way, replace it.

Engine does indeed turn clockwise when you are sitting in front of it, facing it.
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:23 AM
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For the timing set, just line up the dots on the gears before removal. Then install the new ones in the same orientation. Don't make it harder than it really is.

if the outer ring on the harmonic balancer is loose/sloppy in any way, replace it.

Engine does indeed turn clockwise when you are sitting in front of it, facing it.
I always over think things. Sometimes it works out in my favor, sometimes it drives me insane..

I read more on it last night and I just plan on removing everything then lining up the dots as you stated.

Thanks Man, heading out now to rip the rest apart, clean the block and rip the dash out to throw a new heater core in while the coolant is drained.

debating on the rear main seal as I do not feel comfortable undoing the bearing caps or whatever they are.. I don't trust my harbor freight torque wrench to be very accurate and I read those have to be perfectly torqued.
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:32 AM
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I didn't even drop the oil pan when I did my timing set. (saved that for later, when I lost oil pressure.....)

If it isn't leaking, leave it.
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Old 05-03-2014, 01:23 PM
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the oil pan is in rough shape. rusty and leaks a little so I bought a replacement, trans pan is next (w/drain).

I planned on doing the oil pump, pick up screen, rear main and oil pan at once, but I don't feel comfortable messing with the bearing caps so im just doing the pan and gasket I believe. As far as oil pressure goes, im good there, no issues. if it goes out later down the road ill deal with it then.

well, got the pulley off, went to remove the balancer and the Chrysler puller I rented is not the right one. back to AZ to get the bolt style.

just because I love pictures....









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Old 05-03-2014, 11:29 PM
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Got the balancer and cover off... replace or no? I do see some dry rot on the rubber. I think I might just replace it. its only $55.50 with online discount. I just don't like the 1 piece design for some reason.







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Old 05-04-2014, 08:32 AM
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forgot to post the video of my chain slack.... too much?

I read some more threads last night on chain replacement. I'm not sure if I even want to attempt it now... I know its "easy" as some say and i'm already there, but the easiest of things never go smoothly for me anymore for some reason.

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Old 05-04-2014, 08:39 AM
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Too much slack, time for a Cloyes Double Roller. I'd replace the balancer while you're at it, it looks rough.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:07 AM
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I've got the .250 S.A. Double roller from advance auto sitting here, just unconfident at this point, or inexperienced which ever way you want look at it.

how easy does the crank and cam move while the chain is off? that is one of my worries.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:10 AM
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I've got the .250 S.A. Double roller from advance auto sitting here, just unconfident at this point, or inexperienced which ever way you want look at it.

how easy does the crank and cam move while the chain is off? that is one of my worries.
Shouldn't be a problem. You can literally slide the old set off and slide the new set on, it will be tighter so it will take a little work but it's pretty simple.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:20 AM
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So pretty much while the timing cover is off, im going to....

- spin the crank (or cam?) bolt till the dots line up (6 cam, 12 crank)
- jar the cam sprocket, unbolt it.
- slide the sprockets/chain off
- line up the new chain and sprockets while laying on the bench
- install.


if you have a easier/accurate way, please, feel free to post it. need a confidence booster here
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:53 AM
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That's it. Its incredibly easy. Just be careful. It won't be a problem.
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:37 PM
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Just don't turn anything after the set is off, put the new one on exactly the same as the old one comes off. nothing to worry about. Take picture and mark with a paint pen if you need to.
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:56 PM
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When I did mine, I turned the crank (with chain still on it, turning the cam at the same time) until the timing mark on the balancer lined up with the 0 mark on the block. Took the cover off, and the timing marks were out of line as were the key ways.

Studied it, read up on it, got more confused, and finally thought "well, if it ran before, as long as those key ways are there I can't really screw this up, can I?" I made sure NOTHING MOVED and got the new gears and chain lined up and bolted on and prayed.

Fired up just fine.

I honestly think that with the key ways on both the crank and the cam, the only way to mess it up is by turning one without turning the other.

So don't over think it, just be careful not to move anything and you'll be fine. After all, your existing chain is shot. You'll enjoy the improvement in your engine with a new chain.

(Although maybe I just got lucky?)
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