I have a 94 ram 1500 5.9 auto and I got these codes today over the course of a long trip I got these. 12 is battery disconnect 17 is engine loop , engine too cold too long probably cause my 180 stat. And 32 is egr system failure. The only question I have is will replacing the egr valve fix that code? What other things cause code 32

 

http://www.dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/...fault_code.htm

 

Maybe. Depends on what the problem really is. I do believe there is a control solenoid for the EGR valve, that could be the problem as well. Need to do some troubleshooting, so you replace the correct part.

 

How important really is the EGR cause the truck seems to be running fine. Could the egr just of acted up a bit. Or when it throws that code is something in that system completly dead. Idk how long these codes were in there. Or which one triggered the CEL. What are the symptoms of a bad EGR?

 

The most frequent symptoms of a faulty EGR are:

• Detonation – Also called pinging or spark knock, this occurs either when your EGR system simply isn't working, when the EGR valve is disabled, or when your exhaust port is clogged with carbon.
• Misfiring or rough idle – This happens when your EGR valve fails to close, causing exhaust to leak into your intake manifold. This could also trigger the trouble code for random misfire.
• Hard starting – This may occur when the EGR valve isn't closing, thus resulting in a vacuum leak into your intake manifold.

Diagnosing Your EGR Issue

Since there are several different types of EGR valves on the road, you need to know what kind of valve your vehicle uses; this determines which test procedure you should follow. To figure out which valve you have, you can either inspect it, check the service manual, or look for an emissions decal on the underside of the hood. While you're at it, you should also determine what type of vacuum controls you have – solenoid or ported vacuum switch. This information can also be found via examination, service manual, or emissions decal.

To track down your EGR problem, begin by using a code reader or scan tool to read the trouble codes. Look them up in your service manual, on the diagnostic charts, to guide your next steps.

Generic Troubleshooting Procedure for EGR

1. Do you detect detonation when you accelerate with a load? Check the ignition timing; if this is fine, then check your engine's operating temperature. Other possible causes include the wrong type of spark plugs, running lean, excessive compression or low octane fuel. You'll want to rule out every other possibility before zeroing in on the EGR system.
2. Using a vacuum gauge, check your vacuum supply hose at 200-2500 rpm. If there's no vacuum, you could have a loose hose, a faulty or blocked solenoid or ported vacuum switch, or a bad vacuum amplifier.
3. Examine the EGR valve without removing it; when you rev the engine between 1500 and 2000 rpm, does the valve stem move? If not, then you probably have a bad valve. You might need a hand mirror to see the valve stem more easily.
4. Remove and examine the EGR valve. Is the valve diaphragm ruptured? Does it have a leak? These are the most common causes of EGR valve failure.
5. Look for clogging in the EGR passageway in the manifold. You could use a wire or pipe cleaner to probe for a blockage; if you find one, you might be able to dislodge it by poking at it carefully. In some cases, you'll have to remove the manifold so it can be cleaned professionally.

 

I reset the pcm the other day and the light hasn't come on again .... yet. But I've noticed a rough idle lately. I'm wondering if it just needs cleaned a bit. But I've had my nose in my Haynes manual and I cannot locate EGR valve . It's 70$ for the valve and silinoid. I'd like to check the vaccume hose for leaks if I can find where it's located. There's only 65k miles I cant imagine it going completE system failure like the code says. I've never had a egr go bad. I use premium fuel anyways so idk if I would noticed any pinging. I get 15.5ish mpg on 93 octane. And it seems to run smoother

 

EGR valve is on the back side of the intake manifold, toward the passenger side. Solenoid should be around there somewhere too.

 

So I come to a stop light today and the truck stalled on me. Is that from the EGR? When I first started it. It wants to stall too

 

Sounds more like IAC than EGR.

 

It seems like it wants to stall when I first start it. Usually it revs up to about 2000 rpms when first start. Now it just kinda starts goes up alittle and stays low rpm then wants to stall. If I hit the gas then let off quickly it will try to stall also.... I havnt had the check engine light come on for EGR failure in over 1000 miles after I reset the PCM . I reset the pcm again and it helped alittle from keeping it from stalling on my 200 mile trip home. So Maby i have a IACV issue? Can it be cleaned like most? I was thinking if the egr was stuck open that's why it was stalling. I'm getting alittle rough idle at random times also. It has 65k on it now so I doubt it was every cleaned. I still have factory mopar belt. Is both EGR and IACV gonna need replaced? Or where should I lean to now? I'm lost. I put about 250 miles per day on the truck. I know it's not used to it. I dont need it to break down 100 miles from home...Being 21 years old and I bought it with 48k original garage kept no rust. I doubt it got many long trips