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My Official Solid Axle Swap Thread (The Discussion Thread)

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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 03:20 PM
  #91  
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but it would look like a working vehicle...just in a stage of working (ON!)

get this **** done so i can copy you
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 12:17 AM
  #92  
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Well I got the new coil towers today, which just leaves me with the steering components (high steer arms, drag link, and tie rods) and rear axle mounting components (u bolts, u bolt pads, spring perches, and shock tabs) left to get. None of which should stop me from starting to line up and mount the front axle. I'm thinking I'll start this swap as soon as the weather calms down!! (its snowing again... this is the most snow we've gotten in years and its messing up my plans!)
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 09:16 AM
  #93  
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I have a question that's been buggin' me for a while. When one does a SAS, what specs are used for the front end alignment? Do you use the specs for the Dakota or for the truck the axle came out of, or is it a mix of the two. Just wondering in case I should come into some money anytime in this lifetime and would like to undertake such a monumental task, all in the interest of getting a better turning radius.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 10:14 AM
  #94  
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the only thing that need to be changer or checked is the toe both caster and camber are on the axel and toe is toe no matter what it is
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 12:58 PM
  #95  
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Close, dk_sport... Camber is taken care of by the axle. Caster needs to be set up while you are mounting the axle. You need to line up the axle so that the pinion angle is correct, and then if caster is off, the knuckle mounts need to be cut loose and turned for the proper caster angle. Then toe needs to be adjusted when you are done.

Honestly, if you have an angle finder and tape measure (or the rope method), you can align a solid axle yourself. No point spending the money to have a shop align something so simple.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 02:51 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by 95_318SLT
Close, dk_sport... Camber is taken care of by the axle. Caster needs to be set up while you are mounting the axle. You need to line up the axle so that the pinion angle is correct, and then if caster is off, the knuckle mounts need to be cut loose and turned for the proper caster angle. Then toe needs to be adjusted when you are done.

Honestly, if you have an angle finder and tape measure (or the rope method), you can align a solid axle yourself. No point spending the money to have a shop align something so simple.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 10:15 AM
  #97  
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Is there any chance you will get a sharper turning radius out of the axle ?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #98  
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Well I just placed the order for the tires!! Here is a picture of what they look like...



I got them for $65 each from trailworthyfab.com. Plus $150 to ship all 4 freight. Total price was $409 for all 4 90+% tread 37x12.5x16.5s!! Can't beat that!!

Parts left to get:

Front steering links (high steer arms, tie rods, drag link)
Rear axle mounting hardware (spring perches, shock tabs, u-bolt plates, etc)

The rear axle mounting hardware is stuff I HAVE to have before I can start this swap, the front steering links are less important until the end.

Ugh... almost there!!
 

Last edited by 95_318SLT; Feb 23, 2010 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 11:13 PM
  #99  
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Those look SICK!! Sweet price too! Come on get it done!

Sold the TA today!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #100  
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Yeah they are!! If I ever get stuck with those tires then I'm going to assume my truck is broken :P

Oh I forgot one thing. I also need an oxy-acy torch. I thought I had one lined up to borrow but it turned out the bottles were outdated and couldnt be filled. As soon as I order the rear axle mounting hardware and track down a torch set up, its on full speed ahead!!
 
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