Hi im doing a solid axle sway on my kota, ford 9 in the rear, and dana 44 in the front, but when i did the rear i had to disconnect the speedometer, does anyone have ideas on a way to get another one workin?

 

That was not your speedometer, that was your ABS sensor. There may be another way to hook up ABS, but I don't know what that way may be. But your speed sensor is in the back of the transfer case.

I'm doing the same swap on my 1995 Dakota. Mid 70's Chevy k20 14 Bolt FF rear and '79 F250 HD HP Dana 44 front with a custom built 3 link. I did a disc brake conversion in the rear, and have dual piston calipers in the front, so I decided I'm going to put in a new master cylinder and replumb the entire brake system and lose the ABS.

Honestly, if you have a good aftermarket proportioning valve, you can compensate for not having rear ABS! All you have to do is find that point in the adjustment that will stop the rears from locking.

BTW, what are you using for front suspension? Please go into as much detail as possible.

 

I.m going to go with a set of 4-6 inch leafs in the front, and what ever set needed in the rear to compensate the hieght difference. got some bfg mudtraines 35x12.50. custom fron brush guard, just welded the seam tears in the bed and did a spray in liquid liner. the 9 is out of a 78 f250, did disk conversion with homemade brackets and 87 k10 blazer calipers, 2001 ram 1500 rotors (no cut or grind fit perfect) the weird thing is when you said that was my abs cause when i did the rear my speedo quit working lol "you know its a dakota when...." hahai love my truck just cant wait to finish the monster. love the wide track look

 

Well since you said you did a disc brake conversion on the back, let me offer up a warning just in case you don't know...

You need to get a new master cylinder (one designed for front AND rear discs), aftermarket proportioning valve, and replumb the entire brake system. The factory combination valve has to go, and if you don't intend on fixing the ABS so that it works, that valve system needs to go. You can't run disc brakes on a drum brake setup... they work different. Drum brakes require a residual pressure to be held on the system so the springs don't pull the brakes back too far, and that residual pressure will burn up the pads on a disc brake if you keep the factory setup.

 

Come on Mattrfg we need TONS of pictures of everything!!! If you need we got several SAS's done on Dakotas as well as 95 318SLT's (Very well documented) in the FAQ2 in this section.

 

oh trust me pictures will be up soon, and yeah i am completly re-plumbing that rear end, you will see looks like might have to settle for a dana 35 tho, front end lead on the 44 kinda fell thru so i picked up a 35 today out of a 1500 ram, should work good for now but gotta start hacking off the brackets. maybe you might know i was trying to use the stock drive shaft but it makes a squeaking noise... is it because the ford 9 and the stock dakota rear end have different size u joints?

 

Blah... you're not going to like that dana 35 under there for long! 35s are pushing that axle, especially if its geared 4:56s for those 35s. It may work for a temporary solution, but I'd start looking very soon for a dana 44 if I were you.

About the squeak... I doubt its a u-joint issue. But could you be more specific about the exact noise? I'm familiar with a wide range of rear end noises, most of them squealing or whining noises that go along with bearing and gear problems. If it was a loose u-joint, it would be more of a clunking noise than anything else. But unfortunately, I know next to nothing about the ford 9 inch... I've never really understood the hype over those axles. I guess they're supposed to be strong, but in my opinion the 14 bolt runs circles around it for strength :P

 

Are you sure it is a 35? What was the Ram? As far as I know they only came with Dana 44's. And according to this site they didn't come with a Dana 35.
http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffList.a...206&Side=Front




The Ford 9in is concedered strong by some due to its removable center housing. Which makes the axle housing solid and stronger then the non removable center housing axles. Toyota axles did this too. In stock form the Ford 9in and Dana 44 are not as strong as others. But several magazines rate the Chrysler 9.25 stronger than both of them. The Ford 9in and Dana 44 just have the largest aftermarket support that can make them super strong. That is why they are the most popular. I just found this article on the Ford 9in vs the 12 Bolt. I didn't read it yet. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...son/index.html

 

oh Dang, i went out to take a look at it this morning. damn guy i gought it from said was a dana 35 but i just took a better look (was dark out when i picked it up) diff cap looks like a 44 and just checked the numbers stamped and yep your right Crazy4x4Rt it is a 44!

to be honest i love the ford 9's becasue of the 3rd/ axle strength, may not be the toughtest but its really duriable and you can find stuff for them EVERYWHERE. Im gonna try to get some pictures in the next couple days.


the squeaking noise sounds like stressing metal under torque. i disconnected the shaft and spun the yoke and no noise at all but when its hooked up and under stress it squeels almost like a metal on metal grinding or scraping noise

 

Yeah, sounds like gear or bearing noise. Its too hard to tell without being able to hear it, so read these descriptions and see if either sounds about right...