I used my 93 2wd auto with a factory transmission cooler/tow package, to move my family from Orlando, Florida to Portland, Oregon a week ago; and ran into a hiccup on the way. We were about two days in, about three hours from Grand Junction, Colorado and five from Salt Lake City, I was spacing out on this long empty forsaken stretch of road, and as I was looking out the driver's side mirror, I saw smoke coming from the engine compartment and immidiately pulled over and killed the engine. Maybe 30 seconds from noticing smoke to complete stop & engine shutdown.

When I popped the hood I saw transmission fluid all over the engine compartment, the smoke I saw was fluid spraying onto the exhaust manifold on the driver's side vaporizing/burning off. After closer inspection I found one of the hose clamps from the radiator-auxillary transmission cooler line had a broken tooth, and the line had slipped from the nipple and the nipple sprayed fluid straight onto the exhaust manifold and everything around it. My buddy who was moving with us drove to the nearest store (2.5 hours one way) and picked up 12 quarts of ATF+ and a new hose clamp. When he got back I fixed the line, dumped three quarts in, started it up, and started checking the level, adding half a quart, on and on until I got it to the proper fluid level. Drank five and a half quarts. I drove it about 30 miles and then checked it again. Half-quart low, topped off, and checked at every fuel fill-up from there to Portland, I have an oil leak in my rear main so I have to top off the oil every 200 miles or so anyway, so it was just an extra step, no drop in fluid level since. Made it all the way here with no additional problems.

Since then it seems to be slipping, like the torque converter is partially empty. Slightly (100-300) higher RPM to for the same speeds as before the burst/leak. Matching higher shift points (100-300 RPM). Is there a way I can check to see if the torque converter is not filled, and to rectify this if it is the case without taking it to a transmission shop? Funds are pretty tight after the move, trying to take care of everything without involving a shop. Just want to find out if there is anything I can do, or if I should just bite the bullet until I can replace the transmission like I plan to later this year.

 

Most likely you burned up the clutches. The torque converter will fill it self up.

The only thing you can do is to change the fluid and filter. Other than that don't trust it any more further than you want to pay for a tow truck.

Basically same thing happened to me a few years ago, it was a cold morning and the metal line blew and sprayed fluid everywhere, ran it dry for only less than a minute till I saw the smoke. But that was enough to kill it.

 

Thanks, that is kind of what I figured would have to happen. I mean, it is still a beast: the same friend who was traveling with us (2010 equinox 2.4l) started overheating just before Boise and had his engine sieze right near the Boise airport on I-84, so I picked up a flatbed trailer in Portland and drove back to him, loaded his gm-pos up and towed it through 3 mountain ranges without any problem. So now my time has been spent learning why I love my old cast iron Chrysler engine. His water pump is run from a secondary timing chain, with a god-awful tensioner which failed, snapping the chain, so no cooling, blown head gasket, scored cylinder walls, 4 melted pistons, leaking water pump bearing seal, burnt valve seals, and a few other fun heat related damage areas. So unfortunately the money that would have gone to a new transmission is going into rebuilding this thing.

I was wondering, since when I was driving through the Colorado Rockies I got stuck in a snow drift, thanks to my open dif. if there is a way to put a selectable locking dif. on while keeping it 2wd? Would I coincidentally want to put a 4x4 trans/t-case on for the Dakota CAD axle to work? Or is there another type of axle with say, locking hubs that would fit?

 

It is no where near as simple as you think. The 2wd and 4wd have different suspensions front and rear, different frames different brackets.

So here are you options for a 4wd convsion.

1. Sell your 2wd, buy a 4wd. EASY!

2. Do a body/frame swap just like I did. Easy to do, lots of time/space/parts needed. Mostly bolt on, no welding necessary, if planned right. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...x2-to-4x4.html

3. Do a SAS Solid/Straight Axle Swap, 100% custom tons of cutting and welding necessary. Hard to do, tons of time, and way more $$ than you think. I did this too, check my signature for my write up.

Take your pick!

 

I want to keep it 2wd, just want the capability to lock my rear differential (8.25) when the need arises. No 4x4 conversion planned for me right now.

 

2wd and 4wd will have the open differential. The transmission and transfercase has nothing to do with the differential within the axle. I believe your thinking of a diff lock which some AWD have which there is a differential inside the transfercase to allow the front axle to spin at a different rate as the rear, which even then those have Open differentials in the axles.

Yes you can get a locker, but as far as a selectable locker, I believe ARB air lockers is the only choice.

There are several automatic lockers like Powertrax No-Slip and Lock-Right and Spartan. http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/PartsL...D=102&CatID=36
Automatics lock and unlock on their own depending on the throttle pressure. But can be rough on streets.

I had the Lock-Right it worked well. Now I have the No-Slip they both are good choices.

LSD Limited Slip Differentials are half way in between lockers and Open diffs.

 

Okay, I was not sure if there was locking rear axle that would only work in concert (i.e. lock/unlock, connect to driveshaft) with a 4wd drivetrain, minus the front axle.

I was looking at the ARB, just was kind of hoping there was some axle off of a different vic with locking hubs that might fit, $150-300 for a used axle that needs a little work being preferable to a $997 upgrade to my existing axle. . .

 

Nothing will be a direct drop in axle. But with a some cutting and welding and new brackets, anything is possible.

A great axle to get if you can find one is the Chevy Z71 rear axles they have electronic lockers from factory some even have disc brakes.

 

Perfect. Much appreciated.

 

i'd consider heading to a junk yard and grabbing a 8.25 lsd carrier. they can be overhauled for about $100 (parts only) and myne (original best i can tell) made 170k. still functionall but not as strong as it used to be. for mostly street use it works great. seeing how you have 2wd i doubt you'll be rock crawling. they do tend to fishtail really easily in wet weather though :P