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5.2 timing cover replacement

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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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Default 5.2 timing cover replacement

necessary to change the oil pan gasket as well? in the middle of ordering the tc gasket but says need oil pan gasket as well.. doesn't look easy if so, axle right underneath the oil pan
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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Dont bother unless it is dried or cracked even damaged in some way.I just cleaned mine good and left it there and have no leaks..You can use a silicone sealant where the bottom of the cover sits in the seal as a safety measure.If you wanna go ahead and change it you'll just need to loosen the oil pan to drop it a little.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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I just did the timing chain in my V-8 Dakota. Like previously stated, you do not need to drop the oil pan to do the timing chain cover. It is ridiculously easy compared to Chevy and Ford small block engines. As long as you properly drain the coolant and don't get any in the oil pan, you don't even need to change the oil (unless it's due).

A.J.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 08:12 AM
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thats what I was hoping, I did this as well on my 4.0 ranger, must be because dissimilar metals? one major reason hesitant to eventually get aluminum heads
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:34 AM
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I didn't mean to completely drop the oil pan but you do need to drop the front a little to get the new rubber seal in..
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 95slt
thats what I was hoping, I did this as well on my 4.0 ranger, must be because dissimilar metals? one major reason hesitant to eventually get aluminum heads
I don't understand the point you were making about dissimilar metals. Could you elaborate please?

Originally Posted by 1stG92
I didn't mean to completely drop the oil pan but you do need to drop the front a little to get the new rubber seal in..
Which rubber seal are you referring to? The oil pan gasket is a one piece design. You only have to remove the 2 bolts that screw into the timing chain cover. You leave the other oil pan bolts alone.

A.J.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AZ 360 Dakota
I don't understand the point you were making about dissimilar metals. Could you elaborate please?



Which rubber seal are you referring to? The oil pan gasket is a one piece design. You only have to remove the 2 bolts that screw into the timing chain cover. You leave the other oil pan bolts alone.

A.J.
The rubber seal the timing cover sits in on the bottom.Thats the only rubber seal in there.I just removed my cover a week ago and that rubber seal at the bottom sits on the oil pan but has a "lip" on either side that are between the oil pan and block...
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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aluminum and cast iron...the whole reason I am doing this to begin with
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stG92
The rubber seal the timing cover sits in on the bottom.Thats the only rubber seal in there.I just removed my cover a week ago and that rubber seal at the bottom sits on the oil pan but has a "lip" on either side that are between the oil pan and block...
You stated that you drop the front of the oil pan to get the new rubber seal in. The oil pan gasket is a one piece gasket. There is no new seal to install unless you replace the whole oil pan gasket.

Originally Posted by 95slt
aluminum and cast iron...the whole reason I am doing this to begin with
All the timing chain cover gaskets I've done were due to lack of coolant flushes, not dissimilar metal expansion rates.

A.J.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AZ 360 Dakota
You stated that you drop the front of the oil pan to get the new rubber seal in. The oil pan gasket is a one piece gasket. There is no new seal to install unless you replace the whole oil pan gasket.



All the timing chain cover gaskets I've done were due to lack of coolant flushes, not dissimilar metal expansion rates.

A.J.
my dakota is special
 
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