So what is the worst case scenario for a cranked torsion bar or a lift key? You have no travel downwards, how does that affect ride and the truck? What about the angle of the cv joints? I want to lift my truck bad, and since I don't have the time or $ to do a SAS and I can't locate a trailmaster kit, I am beginning to consider cranking the bars or getting lift keys. I am just VERY leery of the damage I may do, because I cannot afford to be fixing my stupidity.

 

Stock torsion bar key cranked all the way you gain 1-2in and you got enough down travel and the CV's axle half shafts are fine.

Indexed/lift torsion bar keys can give you stock height-3in.
If you have it near 3in then your down travel is severely shortened as well as your CV axles are at a steeper angle and the torsion bar may be slightly bending.

 

Ok, and if I went with a 2" body lift, what modifications are neccesary? I have to extend the steering shaft, what about the shifters (manual trans), is the clutch line long enough? Is there anything bigger than 3"?

 

For 2wd you have to add in a steering shaft spacer. On 4wd you don't have to. For manual you don't have to do anything, but if you can't shift properly you may have to trim the shifter boot mount. See the FAQ it has the body lift instructions as well as all the info I provided.

 

So whats up with the clutch linkage? It says to cut and weld, but isn't it a hydrolic clutch with a fluid line?

 

Anyone?

 

The instructions is general for several vehicles. I doubt you have to cut it.

 

This thread is exactly the info I have been meaning to ask for. Thank you. Now I just need to rebuild the front end and get an appointment for an alignment.