I have plans to eventually install a 5.9 carbed magnum, NV3500 transmission, and a 231 transfer case in my 87 dakota.
I have the Nv3500 trans, and the 231 transfer case, but not the engine yet.
Currently, my existing clutch is starting to slip. If I am in 4th at 30mph and floor it, well the clutch is too weak to hold the 125 hp 3.9 V6!! So as you can imagine, my days are numbered.
Now, for my main question, and I hope 89 ragged is going to see this.
1. Its my understanding that on the early 1st gen dakotas, there is not enough clearance to slide the nv3500 in from the bottom. The one piece bellhousing-transmission will not clear the crossmember. (which is welded to the frame)
So to get the transmission in, you either need to slide it in before the engine is dropped in, or raise the cab.
Now, how much would the cab have to be raised?
Can it be tilted enough without taking fenders, etc off?
If not, what needs to be taken loose to fit the nv3500 in there?
Also, any suggestions on the clutch to use, mating the NV3500 trans to the 3.9 engine. Hopefully I will be able to use the existing 3.9 flywheel.
I really appreciate the forum members input on this, and especially those who have personal experience with the NV3500 in the early dakotas.

FWIW if it turns out to be, too big of a deal to get the NV3500 in there now, I may just go back with a stock clutch and do the complete conversion at a future date.
I just dont want to have to park the truck for now.

 

Well I can tell you you're probably not going to be able to lift the cab without removing the fenders....the fenders are held by two bolts at the cab and two bolts at the radiator core. You might be able to remove all the bolts and depending on how much wiring and hoses are connected to the inner fender shift the fender off the cab freeing up that restriction.

The cab itself will be easy to lift...remove the four bolts at the body bushings and Jack it up. Depending on how high you might need to remove the two ground straps between the cab and bed. The bed will also prevent you from tilting the cab...so unless you remove the bed you're limited to straight up and down.

Lastly I have a 2wd so not familiar with your set up but are you saying the tranny crossmember is welded? Or the engine cross member? On mine the tranny cross member is bolted to the frame not welded. I thought the frame was the same for all 87 to 90s irregardless of 4wd or 2wd.

 

Here is a picture of what I am calling a cross member. However my terminology may be wrong.


And here is a picture of the NV3500 and 231 transfer case.


Now, if I understand 89 ragged correctly, he said the NV3500 will not go in from the bottom because it hits this cross member of the frame.
Again, if I understand correctly, either the cab has to be raised, or pull motor and come in from the engine bay.

The NV3500 was only used in 94-96 V8 dakotas. The 92-93 V8's were only available with an automatic.
I suspect the 94-96 has changed from the earlier dakota's either a different cross member or larger tunnel.

Edit to add. The existing NV2500 has a seperate bell housing rather then one piece like the NV3500

 

Yeah the forward cross member which the transmission is not bolted to sounds like the issue.

If you unbolt the rad support and all cab mounts, unbolt the master cylinder, disconnect the steering shaft and perhaps a couple other things you can tilt the cab pretty high, from my recollection on my '93...my guess is if you have the bed on you'll run in to issues with the cab tilting back into the front of the bed before you start pulling too much on wires and hoses. Could try just sliding the bed back a couple inches but I'd always end up dinging something.. haha just me.

 

You don't need to remove the fenders to lift the cab. Just unbolt or loose all body mount bolts. Like installing a body lift, although the amount you can lift the cab and front clip is limited to slack in everything. Not sure how much room he'd need.

Also, lifting the cab isn't limited to straight up and down, left and right as well.

 

Ha. Reminds me of when I pulled my cab off using heavy duty ratchet straps attached to a come-along over a tree branch. Thought I had everything balanced okay. Pulled the cab off successfully and then when it cleared everything it just spun slowly almost 180 degrees. Hmm, that's not what I meant to do...

Then reinstalling it I used my engine hoist. That also worked but was precarious as ****.

I highly recommend jacking up a cab unless you have a proper method to lift it from above.

 

Umm? OK. Not sure what you're getting at, but the cab and still be lifted left and right, that's how a body lift is installed. Jack one side, install, jack the other side, install. Wasn't meaning to take the cab all the way out and move it left or right.

 

He needs to tilt the tunnel back to get the transmission in from what I gather. Tilting side to side is going to require alot of lift on one side to get the center to lift half the amount as the center of tilt is at the tunnel. I just don't see how you can do that by not unbolting the fender and shifting it off the cab. With the fender pinned to the cab and radiator core Im not following how you can lift the cab up on one side. For a lift youre only lifting 3 or so inches? That would only translate to 1.5 inches at the tunnel. I dont know if thats enough but im speculating he needs more like 6 inches which would require nearly a foot of lift. Of course we're all just guessing and look forward to 93s real world experience

 

Unbolt/loosen all the front body mounts. A LOT easier then undoing the fenders.

 

You mean the core support mounts at the radiator? How are you going to tilt the radiator core with the fenders and cab? And raise it 12"? All I'm saying by remove the fenders is unbolt the fender bolts at the cab and support and shift it off the cab a couple of inches...not saying sit them on the floor.