lifting or tilting the cab questions
I want to thank everyone for their input. And Im sorry that this has turned into a somewhat heated debate.
Ragged advise would be the best, that is, get the 5.9 and do it all at once.
I had a health issue that has required 2 surgery's on my knee this summer. Because of this, I am not up for doing the engine at this time.
If I could install the NV3500 with a clutch that would bolt up to my existing flywheel, and it did not require a lot to slip the NV3500 in there, I may do it. (With help of course)
Otherwise, I could keep my stock transmission with a new stock clutch, or park the truck for now.
Thanks again, for everyone's help and opinions.
Ragged advise would be the best, that is, get the 5.9 and do it all at once.
I had a health issue that has required 2 surgery's on my knee this summer. Because of this, I am not up for doing the engine at this time.
If I could install the NV3500 with a clutch that would bolt up to my existing flywheel, and it did not require a lot to slip the NV3500 in there, I may do it. (With help of course)
Otherwise, I could keep my stock transmission with a new stock clutch, or park the truck for now.
Thanks again, for everyone's help and opinions.
I want to thank everyone for their input. And Im sorry that this has turned into a somewhat heated debate.
Ragged advise would be the best, that is, get the 5.9 and do it all at once.
I had a health issue that has required 2 surgery's on my knee this summer. Because of this, I am not up for doing the engine at this time.
Ragged advise would be the best, that is, get the 5.9 and do it all at once.
I had a health issue that has required 2 surgery's on my knee this summer. Because of this, I am not up for doing the engine at this time.
I tried to get some decent pics, buts its actually difficult to get a perspective that tells the story. Here's what I got though. First pic shows the bottom of the trans and engine in relation to the cross-member, which is maybe 6"-7" wide and has the sway bar running through it. To clear that cross-member you have to pull the trans straight back maybe 8"-9", and that's what concerns me. You can kinda see in the next picture how close the bell housing is to the cab. You can't see inside the tunnel unfortunately, but going straight back 8"-9" looks like it would hit, to me:
Last edited by ragged89; Sep 13, 2016 at 03:16 AM.
Hey ragged, Sorry to hear about your brother in law. I pray he will recover quickly and be restored to his full health.
For me, I developed a blood infection mid May, it could have been much worse then it was, but it settled in my knee. This required the doctor to cut my knee open and clean it out. About a month latter, a MRI showed possible infection and a torn menisicus? So they went back in, cleaned out and repaired the menicius. Then 2 weeks latter, due to operation trauma, me doing too much, and too much blood thinners, it hemorrhage into the knee. Back to the emergency room for a day and drain it. Good news, I do believe Im on my way to getting better.
But, enough of my whining.
Looking at your pictures, I cant imagine it sliding in......... Even with the motor out of the truck, I wonder if it would all go back together with the core support in place.
I have been looking on craigslist for a motor, and im thinking a durango motor would be my best bet. I believe it would have the correct oil pan, and hopefully an accessory drive that will fit in the truck.
Also, thanks again for taking the time to post the pictures for me.
For me, I developed a blood infection mid May, it could have been much worse then it was, but it settled in my knee. This required the doctor to cut my knee open and clean it out. About a month latter, a MRI showed possible infection and a torn menisicus? So they went back in, cleaned out and repaired the menicius. Then 2 weeks latter, due to operation trauma, me doing too much, and too much blood thinners, it hemorrhage into the knee. Back to the emergency room for a day and drain it. Good news, I do believe Im on my way to getting better.
But, enough of my whining.
Looking at your pictures, I cant imagine it sliding in......... Even with the motor out of the truck, I wonder if it would all go back together with the core support in place.
I have been looking on craigslist for a motor, and im thinking a durango motor would be my best bet. I believe it would have the correct oil pan, and hopefully an accessory drive that will fit in the truck.
Also, thanks again for taking the time to post the pictures for me.
Man oh man, that's a lot of trouble. I hope you're well past the worst of it 'ol buddy. As for whining, I wouldn't call it that - but you're certainly entitled to a little whine, considering what you've put up with from that knee.
With the motor out, the NV3500 will slip in from the engine bay, I can attest to that. Just so long as you don't try it with the transfer case attached. I really think 3" of lift on the cab would be enough to slide it in or out from underneath too.
I think any Dakota Magnum V8 motor, 2WD or 4WD, and probably Durango as well, will have the pan you want, with the sump toward the rear. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about that, but I'm pretty sure the motor in my 4WD came out of a 2WD Dakota.
With the motor out, the NV3500 will slip in from the engine bay, I can attest to that. Just so long as you don't try it with the transfer case attached. I really think 3" of lift on the cab would be enough to slide it in or out from underneath too.
I think any Dakota Magnum V8 motor, 2WD or 4WD, and probably Durango as well, will have the pan you want, with the sump toward the rear. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about that, but I'm pretty sure the motor in my 4WD came out of a 2WD Dakota.
Ragged, in your OCD post, I remember you had to get a different power steering bracket to clear the steering gear. I believe you started with the brackets from a ram truck?
My question is this, other then the different power steering brackets, are the other mounts, (alt, ac,) the same?
Also, do you have any idea if there were year changes between the 92-2003 accessories that would make one better then the other?
My question is this, other then the different power steering brackets, are the other mounts, (alt, ac,) the same?
Also, do you have any idea if there were year changes between the 92-2003 accessories that would make one better then the other?
I though the oil pan would work. Im hoping that the accessories will work without interference.
FWIW I would prefer a durango 5.9 motor vs a ram motor. As you pointed out at least the oil pan will work and in my mind, the durango has probably not worked as hard as a ram truck would have!!
Ragged, in your OCD post, I remember you had to get a different power steering bracket to clear the steering gear. I believe you started with the brackets from a ram truck?
My question is this, other then the different power steering brackets, are the other mounts, (alt, ac,) the same?
Also, do you have any idea if there were year changes between the 92-2003 accessories that would make one better then the other?
My question is this, other then the different power steering brackets, are the other mounts, (alt, ac,) the same?
Also, do you have any idea if there were year changes between the 92-2003 accessories that would make one better then the other?
As for the other mounts and accessories, everything works. The aluminum bracket assembly that holds the alternator and AC has remained the same for all Magnums. I was concerned that the power steering pump might be an issue, as it was from a rack and pinion truck (2WD). However, it's working perfectly and the lines from the older style 4WD steering box work with it as well.
Something else to think about is the air cleaner. Obviously you could use the Magnum air cleaner setup from a '92-'96 Dakota, but a CAI makes a clean looking alternative. I found mine on eBay, cheap - like $30 cheap. The one I found included everything you need, except a support/brace. It has a 3" diameter polished aluminum tube with a rubber seal and stainless clamps, and it mates right up to the air hat on a Magnum. It comes with a no-name filter, but you can use any good quality cone filter you want with it. I like it because it puts the filter right into a void area behind the core support on the passenger side, and there's a slot there where air comes in from the grille.
I made my own brace that attaches to a bolt on the coil bracket. If you want to see it, I'll post a pic. I can also see if that same CAI is available on eBay.
Last edited by ragged89; Sep 14, 2016 at 02:04 PM.
Ragged, So if I understand correctly.
Assuming I run a carb, and an electronic ignition.
A ram engine, along with its accessories should bolt up?
I know I will need a dakota-durango oil pan and pick up
And I will need cooling fans forward of the radiator.
One other question, what clutch are you using? It seems that a 11in was what came in dakotas, but a lot of replacements seem to be 12in.
Assuming I run a carb, and an electronic ignition.
A ram engine, along with its accessories should bolt up?
I know I will need a dakota-durango oil pan and pick up
And I will need cooling fans forward of the radiator.
One other question, what clutch are you using? It seems that a 11in was what came in dakotas, but a lot of replacements seem to be 12in.
The first power steering bracket I tried was from a van; I probably should have known better given that the van has such a different front-end configuration. The one I ended up with came off a Dakota, and it looks like the one on the Ram trucks I've seen.
As for the other mounts and accessories, everything works. The aluminum bracket assembly that holds the alternator and AC has remained the same for all Magnums. I was concerned that the power steering pump might be an issue, as it was from a rack and pinion truck (2WD). However, it's working perfectly and the lines from the older style 4WD steering box work with it as well.
Something else to think about is the air cleaner. Obviously you could use the Magnum air cleaner setup from a '92-'96 Dakota, but a CAI makes a clean looking alternative. I found mine on eBay, cheap - like $30 cheap. The one I found included everything you need, except a support/brace. It has a 3" diameter polished aluminum tube with a rubber seal and stainless clamps, and it mates right up to the air hat on a Magnum. It comes with a no-name filter, but you can use any good quality cone filter you want with it. I like it because it puts the filter right into a void area behind the core support on the passenger side, and there's a slot there where air comes in from the grille.
I made my own brace that attaches to a bolt on the coil bracket. If you want to see it, I'll post a pic. I can also see if that same CAI is available on eBay.
As for the other mounts and accessories, everything works. The aluminum bracket assembly that holds the alternator and AC has remained the same for all Magnums. I was concerned that the power steering pump might be an issue, as it was from a rack and pinion truck (2WD). However, it's working perfectly and the lines from the older style 4WD steering box work with it as well.
Something else to think about is the air cleaner. Obviously you could use the Magnum air cleaner setup from a '92-'96 Dakota, but a CAI makes a clean looking alternative. I found mine on eBay, cheap - like $30 cheap. The one I found included everything you need, except a support/brace. It has a 3" diameter polished aluminum tube with a rubber seal and stainless clamps, and it mates right up to the air hat on a Magnum. It comes with a no-name filter, but you can use any good quality cone filter you want with it. I like it because it puts the filter right into a void area behind the core support on the passenger side, and there's a slot there where air comes in from the grille.
I made my own brace that attaches to a bolt on the coil bracket. If you want to see it, I'll post a pic. I can also see if that same CAI is available on eBay.






