lifting or tilting the cab questions
Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 1
CAI designs are often less than optimal, and there is a drop off after the engine (i.e. the engine bay) warms up, simply because everything the air comes in contact with is now warmer than when the engine was first started. But the theory is sound, all other things being equal, anytime you can get colder (actually denser) air to the engine, horsepower will increase. The old rule of thumb is every 10 degree drop in temperature is worth approx. a 1% HP increase. So a 250 HP engine should see a roughly 2.5 HP increase if you can get a 10 degree temperature drop in the incoming air. I know 2.5 HP isn't much, but it's interesting to note that driving off cold in 30 degree air your engine should be making about 15 HP more than it does on a 90 degree summer day. You can notice the difference in power on a cold day, if you pay close attention.
I used to drag race, and under-hood temperature was so important that most of us would push our car thru the que and not start it until just before making a run down the track. We also used cool cans to ice down the fuel, and even packed dry ice around the intake to get a denser intake.
This was a favorite subject of mine for a time. I even designed a system to dump refrigerant from a standard automotive AC system into coils placed in an intake tube. The charge would last long enough for a run down the quarter mile, or wherever you happened to be
. Later I found an article where some Ford engineers were experimenting with the same concept, and actually built a prototype.
Sorry for helping to side track your post 93RT. For all of my yapping I guess what I'm really saying is that most methods of getting seriously cooler air into the engine aren't practical on a street vehicle anyway. I think you'll be perfectly satisfied with the filter unit you've chosen.
I used to drag race, and under-hood temperature was so important that most of us would push our car thru the que and not start it until just before making a run down the track. We also used cool cans to ice down the fuel, and even packed dry ice around the intake to get a denser intake.
This was a favorite subject of mine for a time. I even designed a system to dump refrigerant from a standard automotive AC system into coils placed in an intake tube. The charge would last long enough for a run down the quarter mile, or wherever you happened to be
. Later I found an article where some Ford engineers were experimenting with the same concept, and actually built a prototype.Sorry for helping to side track your post 93RT. For all of my yapping I guess what I'm really saying is that most methods of getting seriously cooler air into the engine aren't practical on a street vehicle anyway. I think you'll be perfectly satisfied with the filter unit you've chosen.
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Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 109
From: Va
CAI designs are often less than optimal, and there is a drop off after the engine (i.e. the engine bay) warms up, simply because everything the air comes in contact with is now warmer than when the engine was first started. But the theory is sound, all other things being equal, anytime you can get colder (actually denser) air to the engine, horsepower will increase. The old rule of thumb is every 10 degree drop in temperature is worth approx. a 1% HP increase. So a 250 HP engine should see a roughly 2.5 HP increase if you can get a 10 degree temperature drop in the incoming air. I know 2.5 HP isn't much, but it's interesting to note that driving off cold in 30 degree air your engine should be making about 15 HP more than it does on a 90 degree summer day. You can notice the difference in power on a cold day, if you pay close attention.
I used to drag race, and under-hood temperature was so important that most of us would push our car thru the que and not start it until just before making a run down the track. We also used cool cans to ice down the fuel, and even packed dry ice around the intake to get a denser intake.
This was a favorite subject of mine for a time. I even designed a system to dump refrigerant from a standard automotive AC system into coils placed in an intake tube. The charge would last long enough for a run down the quarter mile, or wherever you happened to be. Later I found an article where some Ford engineers were experimenting with the same concept, and actually built a prototype.
Sorry for helping to side track your post 93RT. For all of my yapping I guess what I'm really saying is that most methods of getting seriously cooler air into the engine aren't practical on a street vehicle anyway. I think you'll be perfectly satisfied with the filter unit you've chosen.
I used to drag race, and under-hood temperature was so important that most of us would push our car thru the que and not start it until just before making a run down the track. We also used cool cans to ice down the fuel, and even packed dry ice around the intake to get a denser intake.
This was a favorite subject of mine for a time. I even designed a system to dump refrigerant from a standard automotive AC system into coils placed in an intake tube. The charge would last long enough for a run down the quarter mile, or wherever you happened to be
. Later I found an article where some Ford engineers were experimenting with the same concept, and actually built a prototype.Sorry for helping to side track your post 93RT. For all of my yapping I guess what I'm really saying is that most methods of getting seriously cooler air into the engine aren't practical on a street vehicle anyway. I think you'll be perfectly satisfied with the filter unit you've chosen.
Ragged, 1% per 10 degrees F. is probably realistic. But, even for that, I believe the tune would need to be optimized for each given air entry temperature. And I supposed with modern fuel injection, it is.
I have one on my 93 corvette. It is a straight shot over the radiator shroud and then pulls air from in front of the radiator. The manufacture even claimed a ram air effect with it.
At the time, the car was making 362rwhp. At our local 1/8 mile track, I played with the stock air cleaner and this one by AO engineering? I couldnt tell any difference in them.
I still use it, and hopefully it does make a small difference. I just dont know. But the one thing I dont like about the true CAI's that I have seen. That is, when standing in front of the car, with it running, it sounds like a vacuum cleaner!! I just dont like that. But thats just me.
With my truck, I plan a 5.9 a carb, HEI ignition. 250 flywheel hp? Latter, a set of EQ heads, and a small cam. Maybe 300-325 flywheel hp. I want a fairly smooth idle and high torque. For me, I believe that will make for a fun simple truck. Not the fastest, but fun.
Dont worry about side tracking my post. I always look forward to what you have to say!!