1990 dakota. Loss of oil pressure and over heating?
#1
1990 dakota. Loss of oil pressure and over heating?
Hello there. I have a 1990 dakota. V6 2wd and here lately I've been having a lot of issue with it over heating changed the water pump and the problem persists.
Also my oil pressure has been dropping randomly.and slowly. I changed the filter to see if that would hel0 but nothing any advice?
Also my oil pressure has been dropping randomly.and slowly. I changed the filter to see if that would hel0 but nothing any advice?
#2
Hello there. I have a 1990 dakota. V6 2wd and here lately I've been having a lot of issue with it over heating changed the water pump and the problem persists.
Also my oil pressure has been dropping randomly.and slowly. I changed the filter to see if that would hel0 but nothing any advice?
Also my oil pressure has been dropping randomly.and slowly. I changed the filter to see if that would hel0 but nothing any advice?
In regard to oil pressure, what do you mean "randomly"? Is the gauge behaving erratically, like high sometimes, then suddenly dropping and rising, regardless of what the engine is doing? Or is it influenced by whether the engine is warm or cold, making a turn, or letting off the gas/braking? Severe overheating will thin the oil and drop the pressure, but its not clear from your initial post that the two problems are related. I'm sure you've checked your oil level, so I think my next question is how many miles are on the truck?
#3
Also, for the oil pressure, check the CONNECTOR.
I started having erratic low oil pressure, so I changed the sending unit, and ... it got worse.
I then looked in the connector, and one of the two female connectors was about 1/8" further in than the other one! Checking the color code in the factory service manual, the one that was further in was the one for the oil pressure gauge.
I pushed the wire back down into the connector, reconnected, and ... I now have VERY good high oil pressure!
RwP
I started having erratic low oil pressure, so I changed the sending unit, and ... it got worse.
I then looked in the connector, and one of the two female connectors was about 1/8" further in than the other one! Checking the color code in the factory service manual, the one that was further in was the one for the oil pressure gauge.
I pushed the wire back down into the connector, reconnected, and ... I now have VERY good high oil pressure!
RwP
#4
Also, for the oil pressure, check the CONNECTOR.
I started having erratic low oil pressure, so I changed the sending unit, and ... it got worse.
I then looked in the connector, and one of the two female connectors was about 1/8" further in than the other one! Checking the color code in the factory service manual, the one that was further in was the one for the oil pressure gauge.
I pushed the wire back down into the connector, reconnected, and ... I now have VERY good high oil pressure!
RwP
I started having erratic low oil pressure, so I changed the sending unit, and ... it got worse.
I then looked in the connector, and one of the two female connectors was about 1/8" further in than the other one! Checking the color code in the factory service manual, the one that was further in was the one for the oil pressure gauge.
I pushed the wire back down into the connector, reconnected, and ... I now have VERY good high oil pressure!
RwP
#6
Good to know.
Last edited by ragged89; 07-08-2017 at 09:01 PM.
#7
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#8
I'll be going down the highway and it'll be fine but as soon as.i get home it'll for lack for better words start boiling. And the oil pressure will be fine then for no reason that I can tell.just start slowly dropping. And it'll stay low for a while the slowly come back.
How old is the radiator? How about your hoses? Has the motor been flushed recently?
I'd say "water pump too", but you note it's been replaced.
And here's one that strikes some as oddball - how old is the clutch on your fan? If it's failing and not locking up when at low speeds or hot, it may not be pulling air through the radiator. It's supposed to unlatch (kind of; it never completely unlatches!) when at speed because of the air being forced through the radiator by your moving. But when you're NOT moving, it's what pulls air through the radiator, so it has to latch up when the engine is at idle.
And here's one more that will make you go "Huh!" ... if you take the radiator loose (not out!), see how much crud is between it and the condensor; you may have air blockage there, so that when the truck isn't moving it just can't get ENOUGH air through the radiator.
But I'd look hard at the radiator now.
If you can find the Extreme Cooling fan shroud (yah, they're a bit rare; took me a year to find one for MY truck!), you can upgrade to the Extreme Cooling radiator (that's what the option was called in 1988; dunno what it was called for 1990); RockAuto has some new for under $140. Be aware that the one I got (the ADI) didn't have a bubble on the overflow tube, so I had to use a 360* clamp to keep it from sucking air back in.
RwP