Timing issues 95 3.9L V6 Magnum
#12
Took truck to a shop for them to set timing. About 3 miles, did not run hot, but upper hose is hard to squeeze and now have water in the oil on the crankcase. Left for shop to tear back down and see what they can do. 3 weeks in the rebuild and now all for naught. Almost ready to grab some det cord and goto town.
#14
The front of the oil pan is exposed when you do the timing chain. You might not have got the gasket that seals that part on right or let water in when you had the TC cover off.
You cannot adjust the timing. The computer will make the timing be whatever it is set for in the computer no matter what you do. The mechanic should have a scanner which is a much easier way to set fuel sync than the manual instructions I gave you. If you want setting it at +3 to +6 instead of OEM 0 is supposed to give more power. I forget if that makes it inject just as the intake valve starts to open or waits for it to be more fully open.
You cannot adjust the timing. The computer will make the timing be whatever it is set for in the computer no matter what you do. The mechanic should have a scanner which is a much easier way to set fuel sync than the manual instructions I gave you. If you want setting it at +3 to +6 instead of OEM 0 is supposed to give more power. I forget if that makes it inject just as the intake valve starts to open or waits for it to be more fully open.
#15
The front of the oil pan is exposed when you do the timing chain. You might not have got the gasket that seals that part on right or let water in when you had the TC cover off.
You cannot adjust the timing. The computer will make the timing be whatever it is set for in the computer no matter what you do. The mechanic should have a scanner which is a much easier way to set fuel sync than the manual instructions I gave you. If you want setting it at +3 to +6 instead of OEM 0 is supposed to give more power. I forget if that makes it inject just as the intake valve starts to open or waits for it to be more fully open.
You cannot adjust the timing. The computer will make the timing be whatever it is set for in the computer no matter what you do. The mechanic should have a scanner which is a much easier way to set fuel sync than the manual instructions I gave you. If you want setting it at +3 to +6 instead of OEM 0 is supposed to give more power. I forget if that makes it inject just as the intake valve starts to open or waits for it to be more fully open.
#16
If you have blow by, coming out of the valve covers, and you are getting water in the oil, believe me, you have a lot more problems then timing, or throttle body....
You mentioned in your orig. post, that all the cylinders were cracked. I assume you replaced the heads.
Did you get new heads, rebuilt, or used?
If the heads were used or rebuilt, were they checked for cracks by either pressure or magnaflux?
Did you check the block and heads for warpage?
Did you clean all gasket surfaces well?
Gaskets installed properly? ie. sealant or no sealant, torque properly?
If all of the above was done properly,
Just my opinion, but I suspect the engine was overheated a lot and ruined the pistons, rings, etc. Rings, or broken pistons are usually the cause of blow by.......
BTW cam timing and ignition timing are 2 different things...... But again, I dont believe that is your main problem.
If it was my truck, I would start with a compression or leak down test.
You mentioned in your orig. post, that all the cylinders were cracked. I assume you replaced the heads.
Did you get new heads, rebuilt, or used?
If the heads were used or rebuilt, were they checked for cracks by either pressure or magnaflux?
Did you check the block and heads for warpage?
Did you clean all gasket surfaces well?
Gaskets installed properly? ie. sealant or no sealant, torque properly?
If all of the above was done properly,
Just my opinion, but I suspect the engine was overheated a lot and ruined the pistons, rings, etc. Rings, or broken pistons are usually the cause of blow by.......
BTW cam timing and ignition timing are 2 different things...... But again, I dont believe that is your main problem.
If it was my truck, I would start with a compression or leak down test.