My 96 with 256K miles is really spewing oil, runs great, doesn't seem to burn oil, doesn't smoke, just leaks it. In the desert South west, rust doesn't happen so if you can keep fixing stuff it lasts forever. I love my 96!!! It's 4wd, automatic (which works flawlessly. ) And except for the usual interior problems, it even looks pretty nice. I'm 66, can do my own work and would keep this truck for the rest of my life if I could. BTW, I had a 97 Durango 5.2 that I got from rebuilt from a gear head to put in the 96 and ended up putting it into a 98. Bad move, the engine turned out to run like he had balance it.

I've found an engine, a 2000, moderate mileage, for a price that's okay. Problem is that the sellers compatibility chart says it won't work on MY 07 or earlier. WTF? The thing is, a rebuilders compatibility chart says 1993 to 2003.

SHould I just go ahead and buy the 2000?

 

There are minor differences between the two engines, but, they are all on the intake manifold. If you swap the intake/accessories from your existing motor, to your replacement motor, it will bolt right in, and hook right up.

 

Thank you. I think I'll send for it today.

 

Well, it'son it's way! https://www.ebay.com/itm/323384485831?ul_noapp=true&autorefresh=true



Planning on putting it on my engine stand & completely resealing it Woo hoo! 104k miles and only $600 plus shipping. Pretty pleased!

 

Nice dude good luck with it!

 

It came in on Wednesday, on a pallet on top of a big tire. It's an 01, 5.2 Ram engine with 104,000 miles on it. From Connecticut. The crank turns okay 360 degrees and it came with no accessories, but a nice wiring harness and the 01 kegger intake. Living in the west for the past 40 something years, I had forgotten about corrosion. Holy crapp! We're so spoiled here!

It's up on my engine stand, in my storage unit. I'll be prepping it for the swap, probably in mid to late Oct. Right now it's 100 or so every day here in Tucson. Too hot to work past 11:00 am!

Here's what's on the to do list: Remove the exhaust manifolds (done,) remove the exhaust studs,one broke, remove the 01 intake, remove the spark plug heat shields (they are really rusted in,) remove the wiring harness, remove the accessories framework from the front of the engine, remove the motor mounts, roto wire brush the rust off as best I can, treat the bare iron with naval jelly or an equivalent (phosphates the metal,) paint the block with black gloss engine paint. My 5.2 parts are already in a gloss grey.

It's gonna get new ignition components--plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and a new O-ring on the distributor. It will get a set of cheap headers, I've used them before and have liked the result.

From the old engine, I'll transplant the intake components, install a new thermostat, transfer the oil pan, reseal the plenum, valve covers,accessory mounts, idler and tensioner. I already did the thick aluminum plenum cover and won't even disturb that. All the new seals and gaskets are Felpro, which imho are superior. New engine mounts, a new water pump, new serp. belt.

As I said, we don't face much rust here--but stuff does wear out. My truck is a 96, extra cab, 5.2 automatic, with 4wd and the factory towing package. Everything is as heavy duty as Dodge offered that year. I've already resealed the front and rear axles, but the truck's suspension components are worn--needs new ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. It's gonna get that stuff this year. Gonna try to reseal the transfer case and the transmission as well. The truck is pretty sweet, but the seats are dirty, & worn, the body is straight and the paint looks okay. At 256, 000 it's just needing some love and some massaging with $100 bills. I figure I can buy a couple of hundred thousand miles for $1500 and keep my loved truck for the rest of my life.

I hate Tucson summer! Looking forward to a fun winter this year.

 

Hey Brian, if it was mine, I would plan on a timing chain set. ($24.79 cloyes at rock auto) and I would take one of the rod caps off and check the condition of the bearings.... If worn, a new set of Mahle from rock auto is $41.00 for std. size. Also, on a 17 year old motor, I would go ahead and replace the freeze plugs. ($15.00) Parts are cheap, and the labor is easy while the motor is out of the truck.
Look forward to following your post on this swap!!

 

you couldn't find an engine closer than CT when youre in AZ??? Yikes.
on the timing chain.... I agree but I would go with a step up, probably even a roller chain. Not much more money, same amount of work.
if you can find them go with brass freeze plugs. should be easy to find.

104k miles.... that aint nothing. you can turn the oil pump with the engine on the stand if you pull the distributor. then put a gauge in the oil sending unit hole. spin the pump (crankcase full of oil, filter on) and watch the gauge. Not foolproof but if there is a series bearing problem you'll know. this is a good idea before firing it up anyways, if you can turn the crank with a socket and breaker bar a bit, that'll help minimize a dry start initially.... you don't know how long this thing has sat since it was last run.
you might have to put YOUR oil pan and pickup onto the replacement motor. Van and full size pickups take different pan from a Dakota.

 

I picked it for the mileage and the price--didn't think about the rust, tho. There's almost never anything on CL here. I bought a newly rebuilt engine a few years ago for my truck, that one ended up in a Ram that a neighbor GAVE me. Wish I'd kept that one for the Dakota. It was a wonderful engine.

I'm planning on transferring the Dakota oil pan and a new pump into the engine. Just sent another $100 order to Rockauto. Included the roller chain timing set. It is cheap, just one more thing to take apart and put together.