So what are you doing?
#92
Today - new spark plugs, resealed the A/C, and sucking it down.
Also lining things up for next weekend to do the rear transmission bushing and seal.
Fastening the passenger dash trim back in place; if I get the A/C blowing cold I'll put the IC surround back on too.
(If I get that far, I'll take a pic of my "new" speedometer installed, too.)
RwP
Also lining things up for next weekend to do the rear transmission bushing and seal.
Fastening the passenger dash trim back in place; if I get the A/C blowing cold I'll put the IC surround back on too.
(If I get that far, I'll take a pic of my "new" speedometer installed, too.)
RwP
#94
Looking good!
Don't forget the orifice tube / thermonic expansion valve and the receiver/dryer / accumulator (depending on which of each is appropriate for your year truck).
Discovered two missing vacuum caps today; even with them on, I don't get but 15in vacuum.
Old school troubleshooting chart says that ignition is probably retarted from ideal; which makes sense.
i'm going to adjust to about 14* to 16* BTDC on my motor (which I can do, it's an LA, not a magnum!) and just run midgrade or premium fuel in it.
But it sure blows cold air today!
RwP
Don't forget the orifice tube / thermonic expansion valve and the receiver/dryer / accumulator (depending on which of each is appropriate for your year truck).
Discovered two missing vacuum caps today; even with them on, I don't get but 15in vacuum.
Old school troubleshooting chart says that ignition is probably retarted from ideal; which makes sense.
i'm going to adjust to about 14* to 16* BTDC on my motor (which I can do, it's an LA, not a magnum!) and just run midgrade or premium fuel in it.
But it sure blows cold air today!
RwP
#95
FINALLY got around to installing the backlit faces on my spare gauge cluster, so I can start rewiring the truck to use a 91-93 tach cluster.
Problem now is a good 1000-1800 RPM motor with a 1/8 drive shaft that can run for about 200 hours non-stop (120 or so if 1800 RPM) to bring the odometer up to my current setting. But it's a start!
(That 1000 RPM behind it as I took this picture warms up too much too fast; it's not designed for 24/7 operation, alas.)
RwP
Problem now is a good 1000-1800 RPM motor with a 1/8 drive shaft that can run for about 200 hours non-stop (120 or so if 1800 RPM) to bring the odometer up to my current setting. But it's a start!
(That 1000 RPM behind it as I took this picture warms up too much too fast; it's not designed for 24/7 operation, alas.)
RwP
#97
Yah, during the last two years the plug on the end pulled off, so I can't plug it into the control box for the backlight. Yet. Amazing what a supply of small 2 pin male/female connectors and a hot soldering iron can do, though.
I also have some needle paint to redo the needles on the tach and the other four gauges.
Since my truck wasn't equipped with the optional tach, I don't expect to have the tach pulses (optional as in "Hey, let's start offering this on the last 100 or so Dakotas for 1988 before we make it official for 1989!" optional) off any of the SMEC pins; since the tach expects two pulses per revolution, I have an adapter already set for a 3:2 ratio to tap into the coil feed with.
When done, it should be a nice improvement over the factory 85MPH cluster (which I have a 125MPH speedo in there; it's just a few miles low from the current odometer setting, like about 9,600 ... )
RwP
I also have some needle paint to redo the needles on the tach and the other four gauges.
Since my truck wasn't equipped with the optional tach, I don't expect to have the tach pulses (optional as in "Hey, let's start offering this on the last 100 or so Dakotas for 1988 before we make it official for 1989!" optional) off any of the SMEC pins; since the tach expects two pulses per revolution, I have an adapter already set for a 3:2 ratio to tap into the coil feed with.
When done, it should be a nice improvement over the factory 85MPH cluster (which I have a 125MPH speedo in there; it's just a few miles low from the current odometer setting, like about 9,600 ... )
RwP
#99
Had to replace the lift cylinder on my chair. Again.
The one I bought was about $30, but came with a neat kit to help get the old cylinder out.
I can find them for $16, but the last one lasted less than a year, and was $16, so ...
(I'm about 345 now, so I only buy the 450lb lift cylinders. I think that last one was not quite honestly rated ... )
RwP
The one I bought was about $30, but came with a neat kit to help get the old cylinder out.
I can find them for $16, but the last one lasted less than a year, and was $16, so ...
(I'm about 345 now, so I only buy the 450lb lift cylinders. I think that last one was not quite honestly rated ... )
RwP