Driving on the flat clear and dry roads the brakes feel like they are pulsing. How do I diagnose please?
I have hooked up my MT2500 previously with both the main motor and the blue connector under the steering column I get no indication it is sensing the RWAL system. That's why I am asking before I try that again.

 

Pulsing brakes may also be an out of round drum or two, or a "warped" rotor or two.

I'd check the rear drums for concentricity before I worried too much about RWAL kicking in.

RwP

 

Feel it thru the steering, or thru the pedal?

 

I forgot to mention the problem is intermittent. The drums and rotors are new since I bought the truck. I feel it in the pedal and the whole truck.

 

I'd STILL check the rear drums for concentricity!

New <> perfect, alas.

RwP

 

Indeed. When I was doing the wrench thing for a living, I would put new rotors/drums on the lathe, and take a couple tenths off, as NONE of them were perfect off the shelf. After having to re-do a job for the second time for a pedal pulsation, I learned my lesson. No problems thereafter.

 

I have my second vehicle down right now so I cannot do anything yet. When I have the other truck up I will have the drums turned and put in new shoes. I will do the same for the front pads/rotors if that doesn't solve the problem. I will be back in about a week or 10 days depending on deliveries.

 

I used to work for a major tire company at one of their company owned stores that also did 'minor' auto repairs...shocks, brakes, exhaust, & alignments. Our mechanic was a Vietnam Vet and sharp as a tack. Each & every brake job he did whether new drums or rotors he put the drums/rotors on the lathe. After seeing him do this I inquired "Why"? his answer "Even new parts can be out of tolerance...I like to check them before I put them on so I don't have to do the job twice in case they're out of spec". I don't remember him ever having a 'comeback' in the 5/6 years we worked there together.

 

It's a good policy but a lot of places won't do it out of customer request because it pushes the component past the thickness limits. Then again customer accepts that what they're getting will behave pretty much the same as before too, just with new pads.

Unfortunately a lot of places have ditched their lathes in exchange for just using new parts because it relieves them of having to make sure the lathe works properly and that the cutters are up to snuff. The comments I've gotten are that new parts are so cheap now it's not worth it, and that replacing cutters is too expensive, but that's only if you accept the Chinese production I guess, which for some things anymore you have to.

Who knows what will come of it though, in the future lathes might make appearance again if we fully decouple from China...just don't know yet.

I bought a lathe unseen at an auction once, had my sister bid on it for me. I had used this very lathe as a high schooler. But when I got it (couldn't be there for auction) the spindle(s) and all the mounting parts were missing...as though the auctioneer didn't know squat about what they were selling...so I got a good but ancient lathe without mounting accessories...which doesn't do me anything good but be a $200 boat anchor. :-(

Steve

 

When rotors for my truck are north of 80 bucks, and I can have my existing rotors turned for ten or fifteen...... it's an easy choice. Generally, you can go thru two or three sets of pads, cutting the rotors at each change, before they get too thin. And I am not referring to minimum spec. Before they get that thin, the can't dissipate heat nearly as well, so, warp rather easily. So, if they are getting close to min. spec, I just replace 'em anyway.