I drove it to work yesterday. Longest single drive I have taken it. It runs great and can handle bumper to bumper traffic. Cruises at 2500 rpm at 60 mph. It has 3.23 gear. I want to run 4.10 and overdrive.

Its hurt 3rd gear in the a998 already. I knew it would not handle the power. I'm guessing the clutches are worn. I'm going to adjust the band and see if it helps. Because it takes no throttle to accelerate it up shifts way to fast. Manually shifting, it flares on the 2-3 shift even with no throttle.

Because I never had an intentions on keeping this transmission I will not bother screwing around with it, I know them well and have played with governor weights to change upshift points. With good clutches and more line pressure it would likely live a short time between clutch changes. Friends 904 behind a 408 stroker needed clutches after every summer.

The thing I most worry about is the small 2 piece drive shaft.

Going to find a rear axle and rebuild it and the 46rh I have and install in spring. Likely put a 3500 stall lockup in as well.

 

3500 stall? That seems awfully steep for something you drive on the street.....

 

Unless you have REALLY heavy CV joints in the drive shaft, a 3500 stall will eat them like candy. I've seen guys drive high stalls converters on the street. It just seems a bit harsh for the daily drive.

 

I used to drive a 77 Plymouth Volare with a 500 hp 400 big block. 4500 stall and 4.10 gears. Ran best of 11.29@120mph.

With the lockup torque converter I'm sure it will cruise around fine. Driveshaft will have big U joints.

 

Have you considered running a larger dia. 1 piece driveshaft? Are you planning to keep the leaf springs?

 

I will be running a 1 piece driveshaft. I need to swap transmission and rear axle first. If my memory is right, it would currently need a 68" drive shaft. Its really long, I had one made a little longer and it was the longest they would make. With this power and rpm capability it would get very expensive.That was almost 20 years ago so things have changed but driveshaft speed and length still matter. I'm trying to get it as short as possible.

I plan to stay leaf springs, might go mono leaf and caltracs or assassin bars with adjustable shocks. I do plan to make some 1/4 mile passes at least to see how fast it is.

I only did the engine swap with nothing else behind it so I could get it running and driving faster. I got a killer deal on the engine around 6 years ago, bought it with nothing to put it in.

 

I ran the Ac lines yesterday. I just have to do a little wiring and get it charged. I need to make a bracket to hold the one line.

I can now finish running the cold air intake. I'm planning to cut the rad support and put the filter behind the bumper. The intake air temp is really high with the filter on the valve cover.

 

Its really looking good!!
Could you tell me where you got the (plate?) that is bolted to the expansion valve?

 

I got all the A/C parts from www.bouchillonperformance.com part #6642

I welded fittings to the factory condenser, they would only sell an aftermarket one. I had to source male fittings.

 

That would take care of the consistent problem of current receiver/dryers for the older 1st Gens not being machined to take the factory gaskets and seal properly.

I've had heck keeping good ones on my Dakota.

Murray sells one that fits and works, if you upgrade to O-rings ... but not the ones included! They were too big; I had to pick up a HBNR assortment to do my truck.

RwP