87 Dakota hemi swap
#1
87 Dakota hemi swap
Hi
I have completed swapping a 6.1 hemi in place of the v6 in a 87 dakota.
Its really not that hard of a swap if you can build headers and solve a couple issues. Its currently bolted to the stock 904 transmission. I decided to drive it around before changing the transmission driveshaft and rear end.
This year is a really tight fit up front. I'm using the 89 v8 rad with 2 slim electric fans. It has no cooling issues, runs on the 180 stat at speed and will creep up to 210 where the 2nd fan comes on at idle in the heat. I almost have the AC system complete. I first tried manual brakes and then went to power as I hated the hard pedal. I even moved the pushrod pivot location to make it 7:1 ratio and still was rock hard.
Running the engine is the Holley terminator X, I have the megasquirt but had nowhere to mount the computer. Holley can go underhood as its waterproof.
I found a clean original truck with minimal rust. Would have liked a short box but the price was right and they are hard to find in good shape up here.
I have completed swapping a 6.1 hemi in place of the v6 in a 87 dakota.
Its really not that hard of a swap if you can build headers and solve a couple issues. Its currently bolted to the stock 904 transmission. I decided to drive it around before changing the transmission driveshaft and rear end.
This year is a really tight fit up front. I'm using the 89 v8 rad with 2 slim electric fans. It has no cooling issues, runs on the 180 stat at speed and will creep up to 210 where the 2nd fan comes on at idle in the heat. I almost have the AC system complete. I first tried manual brakes and then went to power as I hated the hard pedal. I even moved the pushrod pivot location to make it 7:1 ratio and still was rock hard.
Running the engine is the Holley terminator X, I have the megasquirt but had nowhere to mount the computer. Holley can go underhood as its waterproof.
I found a clean original truck with minimal rust. Would have liked a short box but the price was right and they are hard to find in good shape up here.
#5
I love to see how people solve engineering issues when you swap something into something it was never intended for. I'd like to see the first Mustang challenge you at a light. I notice your brake booster is really close to the valve cover. You can go to the Strret Rod scene and make a remote booster for your brakes for field servicability.
#6
I switched to a 1990 3/4 ton dodge setup, in the pics I have manual setup near the end. My issue is the bolt pattern for the booster. It goes through the pedal bracket.
I drives really well, its fast but I don't want to break the 2 piece driveshaft so I'm taking it easy. Plans are to put a 46rh transmission with either a dana 60 rear or 8.8. After that I will get it on a chassis dyno to finish tuning full throttle.
I drives really well, its fast but I don't want to break the 2 piece driveshaft so I'm taking it easy. Plans are to put a 46rh transmission with either a dana 60 rear or 8.8. After that I will get it on a chassis dyno to finish tuning full throttle.
#7
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#9
I was going to go modern. The nag1 is too short, driveshaft length is an issue with a long box. The 8 speed I would need to start over with the efi management system. I would need a factory ecu and I like the fact I can tune what I have with free software and no extra hand held. Don't have to pay for someone to tune. Also I like the cable speedo. Headers would now need to be modified.
If I do another car or truck I will try, it needs to be planned from the start.
I need to paint the brake booster and master, I thought at least the booster had some paint on it. Its a 9.25 inch booster. Needed to drill the firewall holes bigger to fit it and shorten its push rod. You can see my throttle and transmission throttle pressure setup.
If I do another car or truck I will try, it needs to be planned from the start.
I need to paint the brake booster and master, I thought at least the booster had some paint on it. Its a 9.25 inch booster. Needed to drill the firewall holes bigger to fit it and shorten its push rod. You can see my throttle and transmission throttle pressure setup.
#10
I put a 8.8 out of a explorer in mine. It really was a simple swap. I welded on new spring pads, and shock mounts. The explorer rears are mostly 3.73 limited slip, with some being 3.54 and 4.11. They use a 31 spline axle, and have disc brakes.
Its about 2 in. narrow compared to the 8.5 chry. I took out. The driveshaft needs to be about 3/4 in longer to stay the same as factory. It probably would be ok a little short, but if worried, you can get a spacer, to go on the rear yoke. (mustang guys use them) and you can use a conversion u-joint to mate the dakota driveshaft to the 8.8.
Its about 2 in. narrow compared to the 8.5 chry. I took out. The driveshaft needs to be about 3/4 in longer to stay the same as factory. It probably would be ok a little short, but if worried, you can get a spacer, to go on the rear yoke. (mustang guys use them) and you can use a conversion u-joint to mate the dakota driveshaft to the 8.8.