For Your Information
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Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
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From: Northwest Louisiana
For Your Information
The starter stud and bolt for a 1988 Dakota 3.9 is a 7/16-14 thread into the bell housing.
And the stud works better on the top so you can slip the starter on and let that support it while you're getting everything else threaded and torqued.
And ... they do stock bolts to suit at Advance, for when the bolt falls out and your truck won't stop because the starter motor is hanging in the air.
Not that I have personal knowledge of that or anything ... *ahem*
RwP
And the stud works better on the top so you can slip the starter on and let that support it while you're getting everything else threaded and torqued.
And ... they do stock bolts to suit at Advance, for when the bolt falls out and your truck won't stop because the starter motor is hanging in the air.
Not that I have personal knowledge of that or anything ... *ahem*
RwP
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 109
From: Va
Are you using the old style large Starter or the newer smaller starter? On mine, 4wd, it was a bear swapping the orig. One in there. My next one will be the smaller one. Ain't fighting that battle again.
Grand Champion
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 721
From: S.W. Indiana
The starter stud and bolt for a 1988 Dakota 3.9 is a 7/16-14 thread into the bell housing.
And the stud works better on the top so you can slip the starter on and let that support it while you're getting everything else threaded and torqued.
And ... they do stock bolts to suit at Advance, for when the bolt falls out and your truck won't stop because the starter motor is hanging in the air.
Not that I have personal knowledge of that or anything ... *ahem*
RwP
And the stud works better on the top so you can slip the starter on and let that support it while you're getting everything else threaded and torqued.
And ... they do stock bolts to suit at Advance, for when the bolt falls out and your truck won't stop because the starter motor is hanging in the air.
Not that I have personal knowledge of that or anything ... *ahem*
RwP
That's on a par with sticking a screwdriver into an over pressurized dunnage bag in a rail car that's been humped. Push the valve in and release pressure first.
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Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
For all above -
1) Nope, didn't hit any brake lines; it was actually hanging on the stud, which the engine assemblers back when put UNDER the starter.
2) OEM sized; and yes. On my list (for after the body work and paint if possible!) is a new high torque starter to get something I can work in and out when necessary. But. I'll have to do the valve cover gaskets AGAIN (damn gaskets leak like sieves at the back!)
3) I wouldn't know, but I'd trust in venting ANY bag.
RwP
1) Nope, didn't hit any brake lines; it was actually hanging on the stud, which the engine assemblers back when put UNDER the starter.
2) OEM sized; and yes. On my list (for after the body work and paint if possible!) is a new high torque starter to get something I can work in and out when necessary. But. I'll have to do the valve cover gaskets AGAIN (damn gaskets leak like sieves at the back!)
3) I wouldn't know, but I'd trust in venting ANY bag.
RwP
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Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
If not, is it driven in too far?
RwP
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That was fun changing out with the engine already bolted in.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 7
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From: Anderson SC USA
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