1st Gen Dakota Tech 1987 - 1996 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 1st Gen Dakota.

Brakes

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 19, 2021 | 08:26 PM
  #121  
bronze's Avatar
bronze
Thread Starter
|
Record Breaker
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
Default

This could be me.

 
Reply
Old Oct 19, 2021 | 09:12 PM
  #122  
bronze's Avatar
bronze
Thread Starter
|
Record Breaker
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
Default

Before I forget and if it comes down to re-flaring my brake lines I have another question.

I think I know generally how the brake system works but I’m not taking any chances. If I’m trying to solve the air coming thru the right rear wheel ONLY, do I re-flare both rear brake lines AND the feed line that connects to the rear center brake hose?

in other words, could the air source fouling up my right rear be coming from faulty flares in the front?

If I re-flare, I’d like to test it after doing the back five flares before moving on to the front.
 
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2021 | 09:59 AM
  #123  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,399
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Default

Front and rear are completely separate. So, cross-contamination just isn't an issue. Unless the master cylinder has failed..... But, if it was working fine before you opened the system, no reason to believe that it is bad now.

As for where the air is coming from, that is a VERY good question. Even if it were a bad flare, those usually don't show up until you actually have some real pressure on the system..... To draw the amount of air you are seeing, at least one of them would have to be REALLY bad.

Recheck all connections on the rear circuit. Make sure everything is tight. (yeah, I've made that blunder before......)
 
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2021 | 10:28 AM
  #124  
bronze's Avatar
bronze
Thread Starter
|
Record Breaker
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
Default

Originally Posted by HeyYou;[url=tel:3527657
3527657[/url]]Front and rear are completely separate. So, cross-contamination just isn't an issue. Unless the master cylinder has failed..... But, if it was working fine before you opened the system, no reason to believe that it is bad now.

As for where the air is coming from, that is a VERY good question. Even if it were a bad flare, those usually don't show up until you actually have some real pressure on the system..... To draw the amount of air you are seeing, at least one of them would have to be REALLY bad.

Recheck all connections on the rear circuit. Make sure everything is tight. (yeah, I've made that blunder before......)
That’s exactly what I did about a half hour ago. Checked to be sure all my connections were tight. They were. I do have a slight problem getting to the wheel cylinder flange nuts. They do not protrude far enough out to get a good grip on them with a straight flange wrench. Looked for an offset flange wrench and cannot find one. Also practiced some double flares with the new Titan tool. Day and night difference vs the bar clamp style. Have to shorten the distance 1/16” for nicop to work though. Pays to read the reviews.

Not sure what to do next. A bad flare wouldn’t seem to cause that much air would it? Unless collectively they’re all bad.
 
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2021 | 10:31 AM
  #125  
bronze's Avatar
bronze
Thread Starter
|
Record Breaker
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
Default

Originally Posted by bronze;[url=tel:3527660
3527660[/url]]That’s exactly what I did about a half hour ago. Checked to be sure all my connections were tight. They were. I do have a slight problem getting to the wheel cylinder flange nuts. They do not protrude far enough out to get a good grip on them with a straight flange wrench. Looked for an offset flange wrench and cannot find one. Also practiced some double flares with the new Titan tool. Day and night difference vs the bar clamp style. Have to shorten the distance 1/16” for nicop to work though. Pays to read the reviews.

Not sure what to do next. A bad flare wouldn’t seem to cause that much air would it? Unless collectively they’re all bad.
Would rear wheel ABS have anything to do with this?
 
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2021 | 10:31 AM
  #126  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,399
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Default

Originally Posted by bronze
That’s exactly what I did about a half hour ago. Checked to be sure all my connections were tight. They were. I do have a slight problem getting to the wheel cylinder flange nuts. They do not protrude far enough out to get a good grip on them with a straight flange wrench. Looked for an offset flange wrench and cannot find one. Also practiced some double flares with the new Titan tool. Day and night difference vs the bar clamp style. Have to shorten the distance 1/16” for nicop to work though. Pays to read the reviews.

Not sure what to do next. A bad flare wouldn’t seem to cause that much air would it? Unless collectively they’re all bad.
That's my thought as well.

The master cylinder isn't drawing air around where the reservoir plugs into it, is it? (is it a plastic reservoir??)
 
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2021 | 10:47 AM
  #127  
bronze's Avatar
bronze
Thread Starter
|
Record Breaker
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
Default

Originally Posted by HeyYou
That's my thought as well.

The master cylinder isn't drawing air around where the reservoir plugs into it, is it? (is it a plastic reservoir??)
How would I know? I'm thinking if it were drawing air around the MC-Res connection it would have reared its ugly head before now. No?

Yes, it's a plastic reservoir. How does it connect to the MC?



 
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2021 | 11:18 AM
  #128  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,399
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Default

It's just a press fit into soft seals. (rubber, or viton, or something similar.)

When your wife is pumping the brakes, do the air bubbles move back and forth in the clear tube? Or do they move one direction only?
 
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2021 | 12:11 PM
  #129  
bronze's Avatar
bronze
Thread Starter
|
Record Breaker
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
Default

Originally Posted by HeyYou
It's just a press fit into soft seals. (rubber, or viton, or something similar.)

When your wife is pumping the brakes, do the air bubbles move back and forth in the clear tube? Or do they move one direction only?
One direction. I visually inspected what looks like an o-ring between the connection. Still looks supple.

Have one line reflared. In progress with the second line. Then one more flare on the main brake line that comes from the front. Upon inspection, those flares did not even go all around the end of the flare nut.

I don’t know if this will resolve the issue. I’m in your camp that says there’s too much air coming thru to just be a bad flare. OTOH, I’m downright ashamed of those flares and it will always bother me so I may as well re-do them and put my mind to rest. If it still sucks air then I can at least eliminate the flares as the problem.

Eliminate what you can, what’s left is what’s wrong.
 
Reply
Old Oct 20, 2021 | 12:17 PM
  #130  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,399
Likes: 4,214
From: Clayton MI
Default

Yeah, reflaring them sure isn't going to hurt anything, especially when using a better tool.

If you were closer, I would come over and play. But, you are almost 700 miles away...
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:48 PM.