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Yeah, reflaring them sure isn't going to hurt anything, especially when using a better tool.
If you were closer, I would come over and play. But, you are almost 700 miles away...
I’m close to buying you a plane ticket and a 4-pack of Chimay.
I’m sure you like these challenges because it’s what car geeks like you and Ralph do. It’s what you’ve done for decades and you got damn good at it. As for me (an occasional mechanic and someone who needs his truck back on the road), I’m ready for this job to be done!
One line to go.
Question: Is it possible to split a brake line when unscrewing a very stubborn flare nut? And if so, how far away from the scene of the crime (i.e., the flare nut) would it most likely occur?
Anything is possible..... but, generally, it would split very near the nut, and that is usually only on old, rusted out lines.
You wouldn't be the first to buy me a plane ticket. Few years back, member flew me down to Tennessee, put me up at his house for a week, and we did plenum and timing set on his truck. In the 90+ degree heat, with 5000% humidity. We only worked for a few hours a day, as that was all either one of us could handle being out there.
Actually, weather aside, it was a fun trip. Even though I HATE flying.....
He decided to go that route, because even with the plane ticket, and everything else, it was still CHEAPER than paying a local shop to do it.
3527677[/url]]Anything is possible..... but, generally, it would split very near the nut, and that is usually only on old, rusted out lines.
You wouldn't be the first to buy me a plane ticket. Few years back, member flew me down to Tennessee, put me up at his house for a week, and we did plenum and timing set on his truck. In the 90+ degree heat, with 5000% humidity. We only worked for a few hours a day, as that was all either one of us could handle being out there.
Actually, weather aside, it was a fun trip. Even though I HATE flying.....
He decided to go that route, because even with the plane ticket, and everything else, it was still CHEAPER than paying a local shop to do it.
Good grief!
I have a mechanic down here who comes in the same mold as you. Been around a good while. Worked at neighborhood garages his whole life. Seen it all, done it all. Excellent, practical, common sense mechanic and all around good egg. Been thinking about him a lot of late.
Looks like I have to cut this main brake line a little shorter and union it up with a fresh piece of nicop line to reach the brake hose. This springy rock guard wrapped around the brake line is a PITA! Not easy to remove.
I have a mechanic down here who comes in the same mold as you. Been around a good while. Worked at neighborhood garages his whole life. Seen it all, done it all. Excellent, practical, common sense mechanic and all around good egg. Been thinking about him a lot of late.
Looks like I have to cut this main brake line a little shorter and union it up with a fresh piece of nicop line to reach the brake hose. This springy rock guard wrapped around the brake line is a PITA! Not easy to remove.
Once I got my face in there I was able to buy some more line so I just re-flared it and hooked her up. Bleeding with the pneumatic bleeder. No go. Now I know it’s not the flaring. Guess I could try the pump brake method when the wife gets home.
Running out of ideas. Thinking of putting my old wheel cylinders back in. Maybe these new ones are junk. ACDelco but see made in China. I did rob the bleeder screw from the old one. Not as wobbly but same result nonetheless.
Another question. The front is completely independent from the back. How about from rear right vs rear left. They share the same brake hose so I’m figgering if one leaks air the other leaks air.
3527691[/url]]Once I got my face in there I was able to buy some more line so I just re-flared it and hooked her up. Bleeding with the pneumatic bleeder. No go. Now I know it’s not the flaring. Guess I could try the pump brake method when the wife gets home.
Running out of ideas. Thinking of putting my old wheel cylinders back in. Maybe these new ones are junk. ACDelco but see made in China. I did rob the bleeder screw from the old one. Not as wobbly but same result nonetheless.
Another question. The front is completely independent from the back. How about from rear right vs rear left. They share the same brake hose so I’m figgering if one leaks air the other leaks air.
Does rear wheel anti lock (RWAL) play into this at all? I know Ralph mentioned it before I ever started this project as a possible issue. In looking at it the MC lines go to what I assume is the proportioning valve below and from there the rear brake line goes to the RWAL module which actually mounts above the proportioning valve (but below the MC). Could that RWAL module be full of air and preventing it from “priming”? Not sure where new air would come from as I suck the bleeder.
OK, I need to bug you some more. I stumbled on this video and found it interesting. Please watch. It's less than 7 minutes and the guy does a nice job explaining things. It's for a Chevy but I have the same feature on my Dodge truck.
His final solution was a button that pushed the proportioning valve piston back in place. I have a button on mine too. See photo below. Yellow arrow points to it. Is it possible I did what this guy is talking about and it's a matter of pushing that button? I busted off all my brake lines and lost all my fluid. My reservoir was dry. I cannot get them to bleed. Same problem as this guy. I don't know at what point that piston gets pushed over. I know I started on the front brakes. I removed the brake hose from the caliper and not long after that I pushed the caliper piston all the way back to make room for my new pads. Could that have triggered it (edit: No because the brake hose was already disconnected)? I'd surely be interested in your thoughts as I am busting my brain trying to figure out what is going on that keeps me from bleeding my brakes.
Both rears on the same circuit. Only one line running to the rear.
Pull the drums, see if you see any fluid in there.
When you have the wife on hand, try the pump the pedal thing again, but, no tubing. Put your finger right on the bleeder valve. Couple wraps of teflon tape on the bleeders would be a good plan regardless.
3527706]Both rears on the same circuit. Only one line running to the rear.
Pull the drums, see if you see any fluid in there.
When you have the wife on hand, try the pump the pedal thing again, but, no tubing. Put your finger right on the bleeder valve. Couple wraps of teflon tape on the bleeders would be a good plan regardless.
Pulled drums earlier. Saw no fluid.
I replicated the wife pump procedure again. First three pumps blew out solid fluid with only minimal tiny air bubbles. I was hopeful but then subsequent pumps barely pumped any fliud. In fact, the only way I could get a healthier flow was if I had her pump the brake 5 times while I covered the hole. I had teflon tape on the bleeder.
on the bright side, my drums aren’t stuck to the brakes anymore.
Few years back, member flew me down to Tennessee, put me up at his house for a week, and we did plenum and timing set on his truck. In the 90+ degree heat, with 5000% humidity. 
