Not that I’m aware of. I will try to empty the fluid out of the reservoir tomorrow and look in there. Is it possible there was some residue or crud built up over the years that got in the system after I let the reservoir drain out that gummed up the works?

 

Maybe. Either that, or you ran into a big coincidence, and the m/c failed as well.

 

Well, I’m not opposed to changing out the MC. Ralph almost talked me into it early in this endeavor. They’re inexpensive enuf and doesn’t appear to be a tough job. Guessing I’d have to bench bleed it before installing??? My theory on replacing parts on a 28 year old vehicle is there is a decent chance I’ll have to replace it soon anyway so why not replace it now and then I’ll never have to worry about it again.

If there is contamination do you think it likely got relegated to the MC and not the proportioning valve or ABS?

 

Also HY, it seems the more times I try bleeding this truck, the less fluid I’m getting.

BTW, thank you very much for your help. It has been very useful.

 

You may need to recenter the proportioning valve after having the wife pump it.

One more thing to try.

Take a length of clear hose that fits snug onto the bleeder.

Put a length on both the back bleeders first.

Crack both open about 1/4 turn.

Use the reservoir filler from the pneumatic set to keep the reservoir filled; keep an eye on it.

And let gravity pull fluid through the lines.

RwP

 

Pushing the button at the end of the proportioning valve will recenter it?

 

To re-center the prop valve, leave the rears closed, and open one of the front bleeders, pump the brakes a couple times.

If the brake lite in the dash isn't on, prop valve should be good though. Worth checking.

 

Next thing I do is to finish re-flaring my brake lines. The back five flares are done. I have three in the front to do. I'm convinced I will stave off future problems by getting those line ends reworked. Then I can recenter the proportioning valve. Finally, I will try the gravity bleed. I'll mark the fluid level on the feed bottle and note the time I began then observe what happens.

Per instructions. Thanks, fellas.

 

Front flares reworked. Done with re-flaring. Feel better about that. The Titan flaring tool makes beautiful flares and works great in the bench vise or on the truck. Steel or NiCop. Makes no matter.

Anyway, I did the HY method to recenter the proportioning valve. I got to thinking what Ralph said about knocking that piston offcenter when the wife was pumping the brakes. That means it got knocked from front to back because the front was closed and the back was open during the pumping process. So that means the back has to be closed off, the front opened, and then pressurize the system to knock it back to center. Just as HY suggested. I looked at that button on the proportioning valve. Looks like it is designed to knock the piston from the front to the back. Just the opposite of what I need. Am I seeing this correctly?

I started the gravity feed 15 minutes ago. So far I’m not seeing anything coming out the bleeders. Also not seeing the fluid level in the feed container in the reservoir going down. Both rear bleeders are opened 1/4 turn. Both front bleeders are closed.

 

It's been 2:45 since I started the gravity feed. Nuthin'! Fluid level in the feed container has not budged.

STUPID QUESTION TIME: Can I try to gravity bleed the front (back bleeders closed, front bleeders open)? If it bleeds then it suggests the proportioning valve is still triggered offcenter. If it doesn't bleed it suggests the master cylinder is gummed up? Feel free to laugh.