Making my life better takes a lot of time.

 

OK, I’ve been giving serious consideration to buying a field service manual for my particular truck (1993 Dodge Dakota LE, 5.2L, Auto Trans, 2WD). I’m leaning toward wanting a hard copy over the CD version unless there is some advantage of the CD I’m not seeing. Anyway, there are two or three available. One or two sounds like they’re in good shape, the other not so much. But I want to be sure I’m looking at the right FSM. I ask because the index shows it does not include all the sections. For example, it’s missing sections 1,4,10,12,etc. Is that because they do not apply to a rear wheel drive truck (my truck) or is there another reason? Also, I downloaded the 1995 FSM from this forum. Really, how much different is it from my 1993? Enuf to make it worth investing $75 for the exact manual for my year? Opinions please.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11500701849...YAAOSw4nVhTStT

 

Section 8W will be radically different in some sections, the same in others.

The fuel system will be different slightly (1994 and up V6 and V8s use a returnless, as does the 1996 I4.)

I'd invest in the disc version for your year.

See what those sections are in the 1995; sections didn't change in meaning (8W is electrical wiring, for instance)

RwP

 

Looks like the 1995 manual I downloaded from this forum is missing the same sections as the hard copies I saw on Ebay.

 

A plus for the CD version is it is quite a bit cheaper. My laptop has a CD drive but it's hard to find a CD drive in the new laptops anymore unless it is a custom ordered one with the option. I guess I should copy that CD to another drive right away. I assume those CD versions are copyable.

 

They are; which is how I have my 1988 on my desktop PC, my laptop, and on my cell phone.

No DRM at all.

(That's also how I have my 1992-1994 on my desktop for reference also - well, actually, all in a folder on my PC).

(Why do I have the 92-96 on my PC? I was planning to possibly swap to a Magnum EFI on my 1988 back when it was coming up time for the motor overhaul; but I cheaped out and rebuilt the LA instead. Sometimes I wish I HAD rebuilt a Magnum and swapped instead ...)

RwP

 

It's never too late.

 

All it takes is money.

RwP

 

 

Moving the brake topic back on my brake thread...(in response to your pointers on the balljoint thread)...

Well, I was gonna put my task list and parts list together and then post it on my brake thread for you to browse and throw your two cents in. So here we are. You've addressed most of it generally if not specifically. And now I have even more questions that I will get around to eventually. But simply put, I plan to do a complete brake job front and back. That includes brake hoses (mine are original and I'm on borrowed time and I know it), new rotors and drums, "new" calipers, cylinders, pads, springs, adjusters, and whatever else I forgot. And as a "While I'm there" job I was going to replace the front bearings (though I did those once so they're not original). Like you, I tend to like the tried and true brands too if practical (especially if they're American). Timken is an excellent example. Now, you had a few other suggestions about things I need to think about (and I'll follow up with questions). I'm pretty sure I have rear wheel anti-lock brakes (I'll double check next time I plan a trip to my garage floor). I think the valve for the RWAL is on driver's side near the rear axle but I could be wrong. If I recall, you alerted me about ABS when using that compressed air bleeder contraption. Maybe I misread you?? Or perhaps you were referring to full 4-wheel ABS??



I'm copy/pasting your "Hints" post from the balljoint thread for easy reference:

Previous hints:

1) I don't turn rotors and drums; even with the weight of a drum and the hub-and-rotor for my 2WD, it's not that much more than the turning at the local Big Box Parts Stores. And I get all new.

2) ONLY use quality pads! Now, there's a wide and wild batch out there; I'm fond of Wagner Thermoquiets myself, but they're not the only good brand out there by a hella long shot. But. Define what you're buying for first. The best pads for a roundy round racer suck on the street, and the best pads for stop and go may not haul down a fully loaded truck with a trailer efficiently at 75MPH. Just saying.

3) I cheat. It's just me, so I use a pneumatic bleeder and my old Craftsman air compressor (small, non-canister oilless).

4) If it's never been done, consider just doing master cylinder and booster; the trucks actually stop pretty nice when everything's new.

5) Triplecheck your proportioning valve; if it's questionable, the generic GM PV-2 fits and works as long as you change to the GM thread fittings on it.

6) DO replace the brake hoses at the current age; even if previously done, see "Done and done".

7) I do new hardware and new wheel cylinders when I do rear brakes; DO new hardware even if you're confident in your ability to rebuild the old WCs. I'm lazy, and they're not that much money anymore.

8) I'd also consider "new" calipers up front.

9) On the 2WD, you'll be doing wheel bearings and seals. I cheat there also; I use a pressure loader ( they're fairly cheap, under $10 on Amazon for the plastic ones and $20 for the all metal ones) and with that, I can make DAMN sure the rollers are all loaded.

10) Use good wheel bearings; cheap crap is quite often cheap crap.

I'm partial to Timken, which can be found USA and Mexican quite often.

11) Use a GOOD grease. Again, I'm partial to the moly based ones, but that's because back in the 70's they were quite noticeably smoother and slicker than the others. Today, lubrication technology has pretty much removed that advantage; but I still use moly Because I'm Olde Skool

12) Consider new studs on the rear axles while the drums are off and the brakes apart. I took an angle grinder, cut most of the stud off, cross cut with the angle grinder to put a X on the end, and put my stepson's hammer drill on HAMMER only and used a pointed chisel on the stud; they came right out. Putting the new ones on, a 3/4" nut, a 1/2" grade 8 flat washer, and a 1/2-20 grade 8 nut pulled it right in with my battery impact wrench. Easy peasy once I thought to cross cut (damn hammer drill kept bouncing off the stud until I did!)

That's my hints. You can print this out and use it for toilet paper if you wish since most of this is my opinion. But a GOOD opinion in any case, I think.

RwP