This is the grease I've been using since you first recommended the moly blend.

 

It's good stuff, that's for sure!

RwP

 

OK Ralph, I could use your help here (another thank you). I want to take one thing at a time. Let me start with the front wheel bearing replacement. I know I changed these out once but it's so long ago I can barely remember (20 years?). I also think my front wheel bearings are on their way out. I still get some 12 to 6 play and some crunchy noises going on. Nonetheless, I am changing out the bearings whether they need it or not, Here are parts numbers I have gathered so far (refresher: 1993 Dodge Dakota LE, 2WD, 5.2L)

Front Inner Bearing: Timken SET11 Bearing Set
Front Outer Bearing: Timken SET16 Bearing Set
Front Inner Seal: Timken 3087 Seal

QUESTION SECTION
1. Can you verify if these numbers are correct?
2. I don't think I need any other parts, or do I?
3. How hard is it to remove and replace the races from the hub? Any special tools required?
4. OK to use that moly blend grease for this application?

 

In order -

1) They're what RockAuto lists for our trucks, yes.
2) I'd do a brand new cotter key; and you may want a new dust cap, but that's personal unless you've lost one, or it's too damaged to go back on.
3) Removal just takes a drift punch and a 4lb or so sledge; installation a bearing/race driver - of which the Harbor Freight Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set 10 Pc. (harborfreight.com) works, but, I bet that your Big Box Auto Parts Store will have one on loan-a-tool. OTOH, if you're buying a new rotor/hub combo, check - it may have new races in it ALREADY. (OTGH, you may prefer putting the Timken ones back in. !I! would ... )
4) It's what I use; but if you hand pack, be DAMN sure to use gloves. Moly isn't the most human friendly element out there ...

I use a bearing packer like AmazonSmile: Performance Tool W1218 Universal Bearing Packer : Automotive myself; they also sell an all metal version, which is pricier AmazonSmile: LockNLube Universal Bearing Packer : Automotive but not outstandingly so IMO. But your money; for as little as we use one, it's better to spend the $8 and toss it afterwards than to spend the $20 and can't find it in another 20 years. IMO, of course.

RwP

 

Lol. Yes I’d lose it before I’d need it a second time. I had an $11 Lumax packer (same style) on my wish list but I like your $8 Chinesium one better.

I’ll check for a loaner tool for installing the races. Good idea. I can always fall back on HF if no loaner.

Appreciate the heads up about the moly safety. I wasn’t so careful prior. No third arm yet though.

I’ll start my question list for the front brakes next.

Thank you, Sir!

BTW, your 88 uses the same bearings n seal?

555 piece cotter assortment on Amazon = $12
LMAO! I’ll use 2 of them. Meanwhile there are probably thousands of these kits laying in garages across America with 553 in them.

 

Check at the big lots store; there's a couple of cotter pin Dorman packs in the HELP! section for less.

Yah, same bearings and seals; it's an example of why the 6 lug / 5 lug conversion is so easy on a 2WD Dakota.

RwP

 

Have you posted a pic of your 88 somewhere?

 

One more question about the bearing job:

I’m guessing if I look hard enuf I could find a torque spec for the hub nut (axle nut or whatever they call them these days). But if I remember right isn’t there an ideal balance between allowing the wheel to spin freely with minor resistance and, at the same time, have zero wiggle in the wheel?

Field manual specs are nice but sometimes practical experience can’t be beat so my question is exactly how much do you tighten that axle nut? What kind of procedure do you employ to find that balance I described above?

 

For those types of bearings, I usually grease them to death, put it all together, tighten the nut finger tight, spin the rotor, tighten it some more, (still with fingers) until I can't turn it by hand any more. Then I will use a wrench to turn the nut tighter, until I can get the cotter key in. That puts just a little bit of preload on the bearings, so, things are tight, but, not TOO tight.

 

OK Ralph (or anyone else who wants to opine)...Front Brakes

Parts Needed:
Brake Hose, LH
Brake Hose, RH
Caliper, LH
Caliper, RH
Rotor, LH/RH
Brake Pad Set (inner/outer, LH/RH)

QUESTION SECTION
1. Are there any other parts I need? I assume calipers come with slide mounting bolts, banjo bolt, crush washers and hoses come with clips. But I could be wrong.
2. I see two options for the Wagner Thermoquiet brake sets (see Amazon link below for your convenience). MX529A and MX529. Other than $9, what's the difference between the two? I do not recall clips on my outboard pads like I see on those MX529As. I believe mine are "loose". Is that the difference? Or will it depend on the caliper I get?
3. What is your recommendation for calipers? I'm assuming remans. Advanced Auto sells remans under their Carquest name. No idea if they're worth a crap or who remans them.
4. What is your recommendation for rotors? I cannot Hey You them and slice a few thousands off cuz I don't have a lathe. Advanced sells under their Wearever brand for $95 ea.
5. What are your recommendations for lube, anti-sieze, thread-loc, etc. on the various front brake parts? I have my ideas but I'd rather just hear yours than bore you with mine.
6. Can you confirm if I have 4-wheel ABS from the photo below? Sure looks like 4-wheel ABS to me. I always thought I had rear wheel ABS only. Guess not. Wouldn't know cuz I haven't employed them but maybe once or twice in its early days on snowy roads. I'm almost thinking now that 4-wheel ABS was standard on the 93 Dakota LE's.
7. Oops, forgot. Need your recommendation for brake hoses too. Dorman is popular on EBay. I like Dorman for their variety of stuff but quality can be hit or miss.

I want to ask you about bleeding and other items after I ask questions about both the front and back brakes. As always, thank you!