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That picture, if you compare to the FSM on page 5-45, is the RWAL module.
Page 5-50 shows the 4WAL; it's a big motha that bolts right over the dimple in the inner fender at the right of your picture.
Hoses - I'm olde skool, I'd opt for Raybestos or Wagner if possible. Centric does good too. I'm with you - it's Dorman when it's nothing else for me.
I've (for the past decade or more anyway!) used the synthetic lube on the pins and the brake quieter on the back of the pads; I also use the synthetic on the backing plate of the drums in the back to let the shoes slide. I don't have a particular brand there; usually the Synglide stuff at O'Reilly's.
I also use red locktite to hold the caliper bolts in; that's part of my "Better safe than sorry!" philosophy on brakes.
For the rotors - *frowns* My favorite brands, I cannot find. (Strangely, I have a set of close-out Brembo rotors on the front right now ... probably why they were closeout.)
One gotcha is that there's not but a few Chinese foundries making rotors anymore; pretty much it's how much did you want to pay for overhead?
I may go DFC my next set; they even have a rotor/pad set on RockAuto, both rotors, full set of pads, $125 supposing the 4WAL rotors will work (and logically they should; you'll have the extra tone ring is all.) Or, they do list some high performance rotors also on RockAuto. How will they perform? Dunno, but at least they aren't immediate killers, and the "runout is within spec" part makes me feel better, being as how I can't Hey You them either.
Calipers - As I look, seems like Cardone is the big name there. Erk. Nugeon also sells a coated caliper; I'd opt for that just because when you do brakes about every 100,000 miles (!!!) (Yah, lotsa highway miles) they tend to rust something fierce in the three or so years. Also, if I can believe their press info, Nugeon took over for Bendix; if that be so, I'd go Nugeon no sweat. (I'd have to dig a bit more.)
Heh. According to Wagner's web page, the "A"s have a mechanical wear sensor (i.e., they'll scream before they're down to bare metal); the non-A's, don't. I'd opt for the As then. They also suggest for me the ZX family, not the MX family. So a ZX529, since I don't tow or do a lot of stop and go driving.
Also from Wagner's web site - they don't have a 2WD front rotor, drats. They DO have the 4x4 front rotor, for others reading, a P/N BD125166 .
Of course, brake fluid. I'd buy a quart or two, and a few small ones. If you open a quart and barely use it, it's still turned to crap inside of a few months due to how hygroscopic it is.
Brake cleaner. I grew up with the "Watch this flame thrower!" high VoC heavily chlorinated stuff; but the low-chlorinated will still clean, it just takes a bit more mechanical.
OH! One thing to consider due to age, but not a requirement! You CAN pick up a spindle nut set; that's the washer with the tang, the nut, the castle over, and a cotter pin. It'll be about what that 555 piece cotter pin set runs you and gets all new metal there. May be worth a shot. RockAuto shows two different Dorman kits; dunno which one is better.
Why do you want to replace the calipers? Those generally last the life of the truck. Also, open the box, and see what they come with, as most I have purchased, its the caliper, and that's it.
Why do you want to replace the calipers? Those generally last the life of the truck. Also, open the box, and see what they come with, as most I have purchased, its the caliper, and that's it.
At 28 years old, 180,000 miles and the relative inexpensiveness of remans I ask myself, why not? But that doesn't mean someone couldn't talk me out of it.
That picture, if you compare to the FSM on page 5-45, is the RWAL module.
Page 5-50 shows the 4WAL; it's a big motha that bolts right over the dimple in the inner fender at the right of your picture.
Hoses - I'm olde skool, I'd opt for Raybestos or Wagner if possible. Centric does good too. I'm with you - it's Dorman when it's nothing else for me.
I've (for the past decade or more anyway!) used the synthetic lube on the pins and the brake quieter on the back of the pads; I also use the synthetic on the backing plate of the drums in the back to let the shoes slide. I don't have a particular brand there; usually the Synglide stuff at O'Reilly's.
I also use red locktite to hold the caliper bolts in; that's part of my "Better safe than sorry!" philosophy on brakes.
For the rotors - *frowns* My favorite brands, I cannot find. (Strangely, I have a set of close-out Brembo rotors on the front right now ... probably why they were closeout.)
One gotcha is that there's not but a few Chinese foundries making rotors anymore; pretty much it's how much did you want to pay for overhead?
I may go DFC my next set; they even have a rotor/pad set on RockAuto, both rotors, full set of pads, $125 supposing the 4WAL rotors will work (and logically they should; you'll have the extra tone ring is all.) Or, they do list some high performance rotors also on RockAuto. How will they perform? Dunno, but at least they aren't immediate killers, and the "runout is within spec" part makes me feel better, being as how I can't Hey You them either.
Calipers - As I look, seems like Cardone is the big name there. Erk. Nugeon also sells a coated caliper; I'd opt for that just because when you do brakes about every 100,000 miles (!!!) (Yah, lotsa highway miles) they tend to rust something fierce in the three or so years. Also, if I can believe their press info, Nugeon took over for Bendix; if that be so, I'd go Nugeon no sweat. (I'd have to dig a bit more.)
Heh. According to Wagner's web page, the "A"s have a mechanical wear sensor (i.e., they'll scream before they're down to bare metal); the non-A's, don't. I'd opt for the As then. They also suggest for me the ZX family, not the MX family. So a ZX529, since I don't tow or do a lot of stop and go driving.
Also from Wagner's web site - they don't have a 2WD front rotor, drats. They DO have the 4x4 front rotor, for others reading, a P/N BD125166 .
Of course, brake fluid. I'd buy a quart or two, and a few small ones. If you open a quart and barely use it, it's still turned to crap inside of a few months due to how hygroscopic it is.
Brake cleaner. I grew up with the "Watch this flame thrower!" high VoC heavily chlorinated stuff; but the low-chlorinated will still clean, it just takes a bit more mechanical.
OH! One thing to consider due to age, but not a requirement! You CAN pick up a spindle nut set; that's the washer with the tang, the nut, the castle over, and a cotter pin. It'll be about what that 555 piece cotter pin set runs you and gets all new metal there. May be worth a shot. RockAuto shows two different Dorman kits; dunno which one is better.
Hopefully this is enough to make you dizzy
RwP
To answer your last sentence....it does.
But I love it! I like comprehensive answers FAR MORE than inadequate ones. Dinner first, then re-reading your stuff tonight.
To answer your last sentence....it does.
But I love it! I like comprehensive answers FAR MORE than inadequate ones. Dinner first, then re-reading your stuff tonight.
You better take me to a movie also, if you're taking me to dinner!
At 28 years old, 180,000 miles and the relative inexpensiveness of remans I ask myself, why not? But that doesn't mean someone couldn't talk me out of it.
Aww, come on! You're not gonna go down without a fight are you?
Seriously, that is my logic. But no one knows more than I that I could be dead wrong. And this, my friend, is exactly why I am here. By all means, elaborate on your thinking that calipers last a lifetime. I'm here to learn.
OK, Ralph. Let's stay with the ABS topic for now. I looked at the 1995 FSM page 5-45. That indeed is my RWAL. Odd. I looked it up on Haynes (87-96 Dodge Dakota manual, page 9-13) and it shows the valve on driver's side, inside frame rail above the axle (mighta been at one time). I looked there and didn't see it. Saw that valve in the front and assumed it was 4WAL. But then on page 5-50 (actually 5-51 in the FSM I'm looking at) it shows that big motha front wheel ABS valve on the driver's side fender just as you say. And I aint got one of them there. That tells me I have RWAL only. Just for grins, I dug up the dealer's window sticker from my truck when I bought it (that was fun finding that). Here's what it says (4th line under standard equipment):
POWER FRONT DISC/REAR DRUM ANTI LOCK BRAKES
So you are right. I have RWAL, not 4WAL. I wanted to confirm this for reasons I will ask you later.
BTW, I paid $16,858 for my truck on 9/6/1993. Actually, that was the sticker price. I know I talked them down. Wanna say about a grand.
and gets all new metal there. May be worth a shot. RockAuto shows two different Dorman kits; dunno which one is better.
