I measured the OD of the brake line (and the ID of the fitting) 0.186 so 3/16" brake line. Guessing that's how brake line is specified? OD? Don't know, never bought it or if I did it was so long ago I do not remember. Seems to me I flared brake line before but again, we're talking 4 decades ago.

Here's the line I'm looking at. A copper Nickel Alloy. I have that spring rock guard on my brake lines. I can probably steal the old and put it on the new.

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Line-Universal-Size-Copper-Nickel/dp/B07BMZ5FV2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=3%2F16%22+brake+ line+tubing&qid=1634250102&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFDUkZCS E9TUktYNlImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5ODAxMjkxQVQyVlJZTkp EUUFGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzMzI3MzQyNEZWUUI4UVpRV EhOJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGl yZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

On the other hand, looks like they left some curvy bends in the line that could be straightened out a little to buy some length so I wouldn’t need to add line. Or change line. Jist flare it and go with the same line.

 

Yeah, the Ni-Cp stuff is great, and very easy to work with.

 

That’s what I’m hearing. Hand bendable. The other side on the front snapped too. Guessing they all will. I’ll attempt to replace complete lines where possible. Patch sections elsewhere.

I have a photo of my old caliper pads I’m goona post later. Never saw this before so I’ll need you car geeks to explain it to me. I have a theory but that’s all it is and worth what you paid for it.

 

OK, here's the photo of my old caliper brake pads on the front right of truck. The red arrows pointing to the remaining pad material are much thicker than where the blue arrows are pointing. In other words, it's wearing at a pronounced angle. I have not ever seen it this angled before. Is this due to a stuck or lazy slide pin on one side?

 

Yeah, that's a caliper guide pin issue. If you clean them up good, which you should when doing brakes anyway, and lube 'em up, should be golden. Assuming something else isn't worn, or sloppy.

 

Yeah, got em cleaned up and slathered with Sil Glyde. Hope that does the trick.

 

That's the stuff I use too.

 

I believe Ralph mentioned Sil Glyde and then I saw it on a couple vids. Went to the Amazon reviews and it got many orgasmic reviews. I used it on a bump stop so it would slide into the holder easier. Worked great and I don’t worry about it deteriorating the rubber material. Good stuff!

Probably not a bad idea to pull and relube those pins every few years. Mine hadn’t been removed in 15 years. I don’t stack up a lot of miles.

 

Yeah, that's one of the problems I have as well. I drive less than 5000 miles per year, so, things kinda dry out over time, as I simply don't need to touch them very often.

 

OK, all four wheels are done. Just need to spend a day or two making brake lines then I can bleed em.

QUESTION(s):

Been a long, long, long time since I did drum brakes. Probably 40 years. I have little memory of it but I think I might have an issue with my rear drums I want to run by y'all. I can barely turn those drums by hand. I have to put some oomph in them to get them to rotate around those pads. Yes, my adjuster is all the way in (as short as possible). The tops of the shoes are packed against the spring post on top. I've scrunched them every way possible, centered them about the back plate, checked, rechecked, rerechecked, rererechecked to be sure every spring, every bracket, every piece of metal is where it belongs and firmly seated where they belong. My emergency brake is not on.

So my question is this...is this normal? Seems to me I should be able to adjust it loose enuf to the point where I can spin the drum with one finger. Not these! Next question, will I drive these out or will I scorch the hell out of the drum/pads? I can rotate them but only if I give it 50% of my strength.