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Old Sep 28, 2021 | 07:23 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by RalphP
Can I ask why?

I think a good angle grinder should do it; but the stud IS hardened.

RwP
I need more clearance for that C-clamp. I can either get a shorter receiver by rigging one (HD had nothing) or chopping off some of that stud. I prefer the former over the latter but looking at all options.

I figured that was hardened steel. Wasn’t sure if I could get a cutoff wheel to go thru it.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2021 | 07:26 PM
  #92  
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It may take several, and may not be the "Buy 10 for $1.49!" Hazard Fraught specials ...

RwP
 
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Old Sep 28, 2021 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
It may take several, and may not be the "Buy 10 for $1.49!" Hazard Fraught specials ...

RwP
I forgot what kind of cut off wheels I got but they werent HF crap. That much I know.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 05:07 PM
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Well, Ralph. I almost have the right side done. I figured out how to rig that press to remove the lower ball joint. Got everything off (upper, lower ball joints, tie rod inner/outer, end link). Took the spindle off and cleaned it up fairly good. Also cleaned the control arms best I could. No corrosion. Truthfully, cleaning up all that splattered grease took more time than actually doing the repair. I have everything back on and torqued to spec EXCEPT the tie rod. The sway bar is in the way. The tie rod is supposed to go below the sway bar. But the sway bar is just a skosh too low for me to square up the inner tie rod to the rack to thread it on. Very close but just wont thread on. Any suggestions to get that sway bar to move up a little so I can square up the inner tie rod to the rack.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 07:40 PM
  #95  
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You know, I just got to thinking. The rack is sticking out too far (I had the wheels pointing straight ahead when I started working on the truck. If I turn the steering wheel the rack should retract and buy me some room. Enough to get the entire inner tie rod inside the sway bar. Yes?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 08:16 PM
  #96  
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Double post. Oops
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bronze
Well, Ralph. I almost have the right side done. I figured out how to rig that press to remove the lower ball joint. Got everything off (upper, lower ball joints, tie rod inner/outer, end link). Took the spindle off and cleaned it up fairly good. Also cleaned the control arms best I could. No corrosion. Truthfully, cleaning up all that splattered grease took more time than actually doing the repair. I have everything back on and torqued to spec EXCEPT the tie rod. The sway bar is in the way. The tie rod is supposed to go below the sway bar. But the sway bar is just a skosh too low for me to square up the inner tie rod to the rack to thread it on. Very close but just wont thread on. Any suggestions to get that sway bar to move up a little so I can square up the inner tie rod to the rack.
It shouldn't be, unless it's clear while the truck is assembled.

Maybe take the end links out both ends, and swing it that way?

RwP
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP;[url=tel:3526089
3526089[/url]]It shouldn't be, unless it's clear while the truck is assembled.

Maybe take the end links out both ends, and swing it that way?

RwP
Would be worth a try.

When I go to thread it into the rack, the inner tie rod extends exactly 2” beyond the bend in the sway bar. The rack is extended a good 3-1/2”+ beyond the R&P housing. I’m thinking I could turn the steering wheel and get the rack to retract enough to get the inner tie rod inside of that sway bar.

So I have 2 things to try. Thank you!

Did you work on your R&P today? What’s the plan? Get a rebuild?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bronze
Would be worth a try.

When I go to thread it into the rack, the inner tie rod extends exactly 2” beyond the bend in the sway bar. The rack is extended a good 3-1/2”+ beyond the R&P housing. I’m thinking I could turn the steering wheel and get the rack to retract enough to get the inner tie rod inside of that sway bar.

So I have 2 things to try. Thank you!

Did you work on your R&P today? What’s the plan? Get a rebuild?
Do another RackDoctor.NET unit - THIS one went over 160,000 miles, can't bitch about it.

However, that'll have to wait - My Williams insist I pay attention to them first.

Or I may lose Internet, cell phone, electricity, water, natural gas, etc.

But I know what's needed, so I can schedule.

RwP
 
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Old Sep 30, 2021 | 10:02 AM
  #100  
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Yep, the Williams have a way of getting in the way. Gotta pay them though.

BTW, retracting the rack in all the way buys plenty of room to thread on that inner tie rod.
 
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