Yeah, that's the plan. I learned that ES is rather skimpy on the grease they give you in these bushing kits. It's true, They included one small container (about a cubic inch) for both upper and lower arm bushings. That wont cut it. I ordered extra ES grease off Amazon so I should have enough now. I'll use their grease. It's their bushings so they should know what works best for their stuff I would think. They're the ones who have to fight off their squeaky reputation so I'd like to think they researched it extensively. It's pretty thick stuff.

 

Don't forget the single wrap of PTFE tape, too!

RwP

 

Thanks for the reminder, Ralph! It surely can't hurt anything.


I NEED HELP!!!

I removed the LCA bushings the other day. No problem. Combination of burn and press with my UCA bushing press and they popped right out (yes, I kept the shell pressed in the arm and removed only the rubber portion). Not having the same luck with removing the UCA bushings. Remember, I have to re-use the existing shell so I want to remove the rubber and center sleeve only. I got one out but had to use gorilla methods. Burning, drilling, cutting, chunking, prying, chipping, a few harsh words, etc.. There has got to be a more civilized way of doing this.

I am attaching a few photos. Note the round "stops" that fit around the inside next to the bushing rubber. They're just press fit in a groove similar to a snap ring (one of them is half missing (last photo). Obviously, they serve as a stop or abutment once the bushing is pressed in. Seriously, how important are those? I never see them on any videos of guys rebuilding their Dakota UCAs. I could remove them but not sure what that buys me other than I can press out the bushing with my tool. But what does that get me? I still have to get that rubber out and I can't very well put the bushing in the vise and wreck it. I don't know, I'm just rambling. Got any tips or tricks? I'm using a propane torch. It's all I have for heat.

 

Maybe I can get Hey You to breathe on my bushings. That'll burn them off!


HeyYou's Avatar

 

If you heat the shell up enough, the rubber will start bubbling and you can press it out then.

But I see where the rubber's deformed over time. That doesn't help it come out, I'm sure.

But ergh.

That "clip" is what holds the bushing in place on the inside, or more accurately, holds the control arm AGAINST the bushing. It might work being half missing; I'd be replacing that UCA at this point because, well, I'm paranoid and NOT an engineer! ("Just a technician" for over 40 years in the computer business.)

I need to keep that last picture; those marks are the side that goes towards the frame when you reassemble it.

Unrelated, but worth noting for future readers of this thread:

I just got in four Timken bearings to redo my front bearings. All four were "Made in USA". Another reason to pick Timken, IMO.

RwP

 

Are you talking about those machined hash marks in photo 3? Yes, those are the frame side. You made note of that earlier in this thread. I didn't forget and I saw them as soon as I removed that UCA. See, I listen to you.

Well, I learned first hand what that "clip" was. It's a serrated washer. And it doesn't press fit in a groove like a snap ring as I thought. What stops it is a shoulder in the bolt. The shoulder is also serrated. The serrations evidently are to assist it keeping the inside of the bushing from spinning because you can see the teeth imprint on the bushing. I got the other bushing out. It was easier because I was being smarter for a change. I used the pivot bolt to help push the 2nd one out....that half washer fell off. I'm guessing those serrated washers are impossible to find. I wonder if I can modify a washer or maybe find a serrated washer somewhere that would work. Gives me something to do.

 

Looks like part# 4167415. One place shows it as discontinued. Shocking!

 

When I replaced my front wheel bearings last month I noticed the old ones were Timken. I put those in some years ago (I like going with winners too). No idea what the OEMs were. Anyway, the Timkens I pulled out last month didn't have a mar or scar on them. No loose rollers no nuthin'! They appeared brand freaking new! I might be changing out the wife's rear wheel bearing hub. Timken makes those too.

 

I am not an engineer.

I THINK that if you're going poly, where the poly rides on the metal shell and the insert, the washer won't need to be serrated. If you were running bonded rubber, then yah, you'd want it to grab the rubber.

But I could be wrong on that.

RwP

 

That makes sense to me. I can probably still use that half washer. Maybe put a washer in front of it to serve as a spacer for a little extra push to hold it to the shoulder. Maybe I'll sift through the specialty fastener drawer at Lowes to see if they come close. I know they have serrated washers among their specialty stash.