And are you saying the only way to do that is to put the truck back on the ground?

 

Or, build yourself four stacks of something that will support the truck, that are all the same height, and set the truck on those. Be REAL careful how ya do that. If it falls on you, you simply won't care about the results........

 

I don’t suspect so.

I was thinking jacking up the LCA just until it comes off the jackstand would mimic the truck being on the ground with the wheel on.

 

BTW, who changes the forum clock?

 

The trick is, have the suspension loaded, as it would be with the truck on the ground.

It's correct for me, so far as I know, it just happens automagically.

 

OK, before I forget again, and for those who stumble on this thread (and maybe serves as a refresher for Ralph too), I will leave info here on that coil spring.

Ralph referred me earlier to a compression tool (see link below). This spring compressor did not work for me but, at the same time, it IS the right tool for this job. It only needs to be slightly different. I tried 7 ways to Sunday to get that hook section inside of the coil. Through the bottom, through the space between the coils, unfolded the arms, refolded the arms, stood on my head, yelled for mommy, no way no how that was going inside the coil. Too bad because the way Ralph explained this tool earlier it sounded like the perfect compressor for this job. And it still can IF you get the right one. Ralph alluded that he might of had to disassemble that hook end, insert the pieces inside the coil, and then reassemble them inside the coil. That would work! And I know those exist because I've seen them in videos (where, I do not know). Unfortunately, this tool used pressed in hardware and NOT removable hardware. So yes, this is the correct tool for the job. Just make sure you find one that has removable fasteners on the hook end.

In lieu of a spring compressor and as someone who wants to see tomorrow, I cut a 3-ft piece of rebar and passed it thru the upper and lower shock holes all the way to the ground (rebar protruding outside of both shock holes, shock is removed, LCA is supported underneath with a floor jack). And when I lowered the LCA, the spring popped out sure as Christ made apples. But it didn't go very far with that rebar passed thru the middle of it. Yes, the bottom of the coil kicked out at the bottom and wedged my rebar against the lower shock hole, but I was able to pry it up with a pry bar and then finish lifting it thru the bottom shock hole with a floor jack. Didn't take long. And I'm still alive.

But try and use the correct tool...the one Ralph recommended. Just make sure it has removable hardware on the hook assembly.


https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...sor/555573_0_0

 

Got a notice today from Mopar Parts. They cancelled my order for the coil isolators because they have been discontinued. Took them 2 days to tell me this. Meanwhile, my truck is on jackstands in the garage. Whatever.

So I can buy the Rare Parts equivalent isolators off of Ebay for $32 a piece OR I can buy a universal isolator from Energy Suspension (see link below). The dimensions they give are 3.750" ID x 5.438" OD x 1.125" H. I put the calipers on my coil spring and get 3.725" ID x 5.25" OD. Didn't waste my time measuring the isolator height because it's smooshed into a pancake. I think these ES isolators will work.

QUESTIONS
1) Do you agree they should work? I stress the word "should".
2) I don't know how thick the OEM isolators are when they're new. I'm just guessing here but I suspect they are not as tall as the ES universal isolator...especially when the full weight of the truck are on them. In other words, I'm thinking I will add a little height to the springs. Do you see any issues with this?

BABBLING SECTION
ES hasn't let me down yet. They seem to make very high quality parts. For this reason, I prefer the ES Universal Isolator vs the Rare Parts OEM isolator. I also think the ES isolators will outlive me. But I just want to be sure I'm seeing this right. I'm not a coil aficionado.

And since I'll have to wait for the isolators I may as well order some KYB Gas-A-Justs and do it fricken all! My Monroes are 11 years old with 33,000 miles on them. Still work but what the hell. Put the KYBs in and forget about it. I wont be in any mood any time soon to crawl back under that damn truck.

https://teamenergysuspension.com/pro...olator-ramped/

Your input is appreciated!

 

That part number is ramped; it'd do for the bottom, but I doubt it'll be right for the top (since the top is prepared to flat when the coils are made.)

Maybe 9.6107? Universal Coil Spring Isolators | Style B | 9.6107 (energysuspensionparts.com)

Lip outside is 3 9/16", a bit less than 3.725". Outside is at 5.25" - I'd rather it be a bit larger myself.

I'm not happy with that one, since the OD of the isolator is the same as your measured OD of the spring; you'd have to cut the outside of the pocket off.

Digging into the current Prothane catalog, I find 1.1704 - AmazonSmile: Prothane 1-1704-BL Black Front Upper Coil Spring Isolator Kit : Automotive

ID of 3.125, OD of 6.00, not sure how much the lip is offhand (not part of the catalog.)

I've attached that catalog page out of the Prothane catalog (prothane.com) ... See if that makes more sense from measuring.

RwP

 

Hmmmm. Now you know why I ask these questions. Still looking. According to Amazon's fitment check, they say those Prothanes do not fit my model. Gonna look at the PDF you attached.

 

Ralph, the ID + the lip on the ES is still .1675 less than the 3.725 I measured on my coil (better part of 3/16"). I have no idea how critical this is? Would .1675" make much of a difference? You would know more than I. Also as you point out the ES OD is exactly the width of my coil ID but since the coil material is round it will actually set inside of the edge of the isolator by about 3/8" (my coil material is 3/4" in diameter). Hope that made sense.

And, as you point out, it's impossible to tell what that lip wall thickness is on those Prothanes. The ID is actually 1/16" less on the Prothane than the ES. But again, who knows how thick the lip is?? Yes, the OD is 6". A full 3/4" more than the ES. You seemed to prefer the wider OD. I'm guessing because the coil will seat further from the edge giving it a beefier "bed" to push on.. My question is, do I have enough width at the top of the coil cavity to accept a 6" wide isolator?

I simply do not know the criticalness of these measurements. When these places offer "universal" isolators I kind of assume in most cases they wont be exact so some play is acceptable. But what do I know? Not much, I'll tell you that! I can always get off the edge and get the Rare Parts OEM ones even though I know they don't come close to the same quality of the ES or Prothanes. And I sure don't expect you to know the criticalness of these measurements. You're not a coil isolator engineer. But you know a hell of a lot more than I do.