Top (closest to body) looks kind of like a "black hole" gravitational chart ... or a candlestick older upside down.

The bottom is a curved washer.

Bolt goes through it all.

It all goes through the center of the rubber or poly bushing.

It's a bit clearer if you look at the assembly instructions, it shows the relative positions of the two washers.

I've attached that PDF in case you can't find it quickly.

RwP

 

Hmmm, I had it topsy turvy. So I need to lift the cab high enuf NOT to just clear the top bushing but, instead, to clear the upside down candlestick holder.

 

Well, no, and yes.

Candlestick holder fits INSIDE the top bushing; it's not much more than the bushing by itself. So enough to clear that, but no need for any extra. Drop it in the bushing BEFORE installation.

A 4" gap will be plenty 3" should do.

Suggestion: Use thumb and finger AROUND, don't put hand between bushing and cab. My luck? That's when it would all fall down Also, don't pull any more bushings until you get the new one in where you're working, so that if it DOES fall down, the OTHER bushings will be in the way to keep it from going all the way down.

I'm paranoid, I am; but so far I still have eight fingers and two thumbs between both hands.

Reminds me of a clip from the old Benson TV show ... where the old governor, played by Nobel, said "I liked it better running the sawmill. All I had to remember was to keep my fingers out of the sawblades. Look!" *wags fingers* "I could do that!:

RwP

 

Oh, you are 100% right. There is nothing to be gained and everything to lose by putting hands or fingers in the path of those mounts. And good pointer about replacing them one at a time.

I’m wondering if I should use two jacks when lifting the side. One at the front fender toward the core support and one near the middle of the cab. Remember, I have an extended cab. Maybe that’s overkill or just too complex??

 

If your jack is strong enough to lift it in the first place, worst you may need is a long enough 2x4 or 4x4. But I'd just use one, lifting towards the front of the cab. Better, start with one in the middle, do the three cab bushings; move to the front of the cab or up at the core support and do the front one.

My gut feel is that you won't flex the body enough to cause problems; but you might, let me warn you.

I'm going with one 2' long 2x4 under the floor plan about 6" back from where it bends up; but I may shift depending on how it lifts.

RwP

 

I believe "shifting" technique will be the order of the day. We'll have differences between your standard cab and my extended cab to be sure.

QUESTION: When you replaced your rack and pinion, do you remember if the OEM bushings were 1-piece installations? Just planning how to remove the bushings. ES is a 2-piece bushing.

 

I think the old ones were 1 piece, but it's been a long while (well, five years!) since I did it.

I'm still waiting for my new rack.

RwP

 

Yeah, it’s not something you would waste any brain RAM on.

So you think disconnecting the intermediate shaft from the pinion is all I’ll have to do? Hoses n tie rods can likely remain connected? Do I need to support the rack while I remove/replace the bushings (or body mounts) or will the tie rods do that for me? And I believe you said the pinion —-> intermediate shaft was keyed so it can reassemble in only one orientation??

 

All that's bolted to the frame, so it won't rise with the cab.

And yep; it's got a flat across one side, so it's rather hard to put on the wrong way.

Sorry, I was thinking of body mounts.

You may get by with just unbolting from the frame; depends on how well you can get the bushings out.

I did mine during a rack change.

The tie rods and hoses will help support it SOME. I wouldn't let it dangle on the pressure hose, though.

RwP

 

So I should reattach the rack to the frame after I swap out the bushings. Just don’t reattach the intermediate shaft until all body mounts have been installed.