My EVAP is on the fender. Lines appear to have ample slack.

But YES! A couple pumps - inspect- a couple pumps - inspect -rinse and repeat. And keep my ears open too...just as important as the eyes. And NO! It would be foolish to hold you (or anyone else) responsible for not mentioning something you have no way of knowing. That is MY problem! I'm just happy y'all are giving me things to consider.

I've been accused of over-prepping for jobs. But I can say once I start them things generally go pretty smoothly. This job is no different.

I'd feel better if Ralph swapped out his body mounts before me but it's past time I grow up and be a man.

 

That may happen; I have two days tied up next week, one with a W/O, one with two doctor visits for my wife.

Monday I'm planning to raid the two 88's in Texarkana for possible small parts (speedo cables, hood bumpers, one has the hood emblem I want but not enough to pay $75 on FleaBay for, etc.)

RwP

 

Dang, I'm jealous! I'd love to pick through a Dakota carcass. I wish you luck. Report back with everything you stripped. I'm curious.

 

Too bad you don't live near me; hit up uapi.biz and see what they have in their six yards; then hit up Pickers in Texarkana AR ( Inventory Search - Sell Your Vehicle | Auto Parts Pickers (pickerstxk.com) ) and Pipe's ( Pipes U-Pull-It Auto Parts | Sell Your Vehicle (pipesupullit.net) ) .

There's a few others in the Picker's chain that are actually same-drive-trip round trip; but I no longer head out of town much.

RwP

 

I think the down brake lines will be OK but I will keep a close on on them as I jack up the body. You can see the one prominently on the picture I posted that goes from the RWAL down. That has a tighter bend but appears to have plenty of spring slack. The other one going from the master to the front junction block will be the other one to keep an eye on. Finally, that one going from the F/L brake hose to the front junction block is not draping the fender so it will not be a problem.

Been soaking the body mount bolts. Rigging some drinking straws that help aim the PB a bit better. The ones for the body I use a thick plastic straw that is curled a bit. I can insert the PB straw in my rig and squirt away. Perfect geometry to sneak inside those body ribs. Just needs a bit of finesse-wiggling and you can actually feel for the cage nut. I use a straight straw set up (3 straws) to reach the F/L core support cage nut. The battery sits right above it but I can thread the straws thru to reach the cage nut.

 

Them pick n pulls are kinda hit or miss. You're fortunate to find a couple 88s.

 

Yes, I know!

One was with the A500/42RH 4 speed auto, and it's a long wheel base; may buy the whole driveshaft out of it for when I go 42RH later. (If I had the money and a garage, I'd just buy the damn transmission and rebuild it!)

And whoever pulled the motor was intelligent and competent; no cut cables, things unbolted, etc.

The ECU was out of that one.

The other one had the hood ornament (it may still, it may not; dunno, only have the pic from when they placed it.)

RwP

 

You have to figure the ECUs would be the first thing stripped. Maybe by the boneyard too.

 

Not this boneyard, it's strictly U-Pull-It (well, for some items, they have folks you can hire to pull for you, like motors and transmissions.)

But yeah, they go quick.

RwP

 

If I had access to a Dakota I'd probably do the same as you and strip out the body mount hardware in case I run into rotting issues. OTOH, What is visible and what I can feel, mine have no significant rotting. No rotting on the frame mounts either or the cage nuts. I might luck out...knock on wood.

I'm still trying to determine how I want to break those bolts. Slow and steady with a ratchet or breaker bar or just dive in and go full throttle with an air gun. I'm trying to max my odds of not trashing the cage nut. I'm thinking a good pop with the air gun might be my best choice.