Mine was paranoia after about 30 years on the road for the old fasteners. Plus, I prefer PT nuts for suspension items, and flange bolts and nuts instead of washers when possible.

No good scientific reason, just a preference.

Like I have bran'new bolts to bolt the cab back down, when I replace the cab mount bushings.

Which also reminds me ... need to see about getting the cab washer/bushing sets so I can get them powder coated before I pull the expired rubber mounts and replace them with poly mounts on my Dakota.

RwP

 

Speaking of cab mounts, I was wondering how hard those are to replace. I've changed so many bushings recently I've found myself in bushing mode and more willing to take them on. I was even thinking of changing the rack and pinion bushings only because, 1) they're the only bushings in the front I haven't changed, 2) the ends are dry and cracked, 3) it looks easy.

 

I've not done my cab bushings YET.

I ordered the ES bushing set to go in, though; and I found some replacement bolts on sale at Fastenal (5 pack for $1.25 or something), so I scarfed them up.

The ES poly bushings DO require the factory washers and metal inserts; I've got a pair for the core support pulled to get cleaned and powder coated, and need to pick up a set.

LOGICALLY, and what I've read is, you can get the bushings replaced in your driveway.

1) Loosen all three down one side (passenger or driver, your pick).

2) Remove all three down the other side.

3) Putting a board between the jack and the floorboard, jack the cab up JUST enough to clear the bushing top half.

4) Remove the old bushing top halves.

5) Install the new ones.

6) Let that side down; start all three bolts.

7) Remove the other side bolts.

8) Jack up that side just enough to clear.

9) Remove old bushings; install new bushings.

10) Let cab down; reinstall bolts.

11) Go back and torque all six bolts down. (I'd use a thread locker ALSO, just' cuz).

One thing that should happen is that the body line on the cab will now line up with the body line on the bed; mine's offset about 1/2" (cab lower).

(After that, it's time to do the motor mounts also; still have the factory ones, or at least what's left of them, in my Dakota.)

I presume I'll have to remove the intermediate shaft, disconnect the shift linkage since mine is a column shift auto, and possibly loosen or shift some other items; not sure, will know as I'm doing.

I've ordered a new intermediate shaft kit from Classic; I'll have to trim down the DD portion of the collapsible shaft, but it should be overall better on my Dakota. I'll be moving back to a rag joint at the rack end; currently, I can feel the grooving of the concrete in the wheel, and it's getting tiring while driving. (I have two U-joints on mine now; there's a reason why factory uses a rag joint. Might not be a big deal; I've driven over 5 years like this; but I'm getting older and more tired as I live.)

RwP

 

As to the rack bushings - those should have been changed as you were installing the rack. If you didn't replace the rack, then it's disconnect the intermediate shaft; unbolt from the frame, ease it down; swap the bushings; ease it up; bolt back to the frame; reconnect the intermediate shaft.

Should not have to disconnect the power steering lines or actually remove from the knuckles.

(And if your knuckles are disconnected with the bushings on the control arms right now, well, disconnect the power steering hoses and just pull that sucker out from the truck!)

RwP

 

Excellent info on both topics! I’m giving it serious consideration.

Even after changing out bushings on my upper and lower control arms my truck still creaks and crunches. I simply do not know what is causing it. Basically just rears its ugly head doing slow turns (parking spaces).

 

Which is the top half...the 2-step ring or the single ring? And at what point does the bottom half go in? Trying to picture this since I have not studied it yet.

https://teamenergysuspension.com/pro...r-body-mounts/

 

There's a washer/bushing metal combo goes into the two step ring; that sits in the frame.

The bottom half goes on AFTER you let it down, before you slip the bolt through the washer and into the cab mount.

Download the instructions; it's actually fairly clear, I think after you do that and look at them.

See Frame Mount Bushings Installation (energysuspensionparts.com) .

I've attached that PDF to this message also.

RwP

 

I am also considering changing out motor mounts. I had one replaced in 2007 (LH) cuz it was cracked. I had it in the shop getting other stuff done back in the day when I was working 60 hours a week and didn't have time to work on my truck. The mechanic discovered the motor mount was cracked so he replaced it.

Here is my thinking. I have a creaky/crunching noise going on and it is very noticeable. Something is obviously wrong and one day, if left unattended, it will fail and then I will know what it was. Nothing wrong with this approach if I don't mind discovering the problem while upside down in a ditch hanging by my seat belt. Or, I could take it to my mechanic and see if he can find the problem. No guarantees he can either. Or I can do what I have been doing by changing out the bushings one by one until the problem is fixed. This last option is not usually the best option because like most people you want to find the problem first. However, I have been very willing to replace bushings in my truck because, 1) the truck is old and the bushings will need replacing now or soon anyway, 2) now is the time to change them, as Rodney Dangerfield would say, "While we're young!" I don't know how much longer I will be able to work on my truck. So the here and now is here and now.

So, if I'm going to change everything out anyway, it might be best to just wait and see if I solve the problem before turning my truck over to the Gods. Feel free to disagree.

Here is what I have changed so far:
Upper control arm bushings
Lower control arm bushings
Sway bar bushings
End Links (w/bushings)
Front snubbers (upper and lower)
Rear snubbers

Here is what I believe I have remaining:
Rack & pinion bushings
Body mounts
Motor mounts
Leaf spring bushings

Nothing I have remaining will be more difficult than the control arm bushings. So the worst is over. Are there any bushings/mounts that I have not accounted for?

 

OK, that makes sense now. EZPZ. Only issue will be how badly corroded the mounts and hardware will be...as usual. But from a replacement standpoint it looks pretty simple. I am assuming the bolts thread into a welded nut in the body (or similar). Or is the nut non-integral and can be easily reached with a wrench?

 

It's a captivated nut, but if you need to, it can be gotten to and replaced.

The new bolts I bought were M12 x 1.75 x 100mm - the factory ones were 95.5mm long.

At worse, I'll pack a flat washer on it.

They were on sale at Fastenal - I didn't pay this much for the package of five. M12-1.75 x 100mm Plain Finish DIN 6921 Class 10.9 Hex Flange Bolt | Fastenal

Actually I don't think I paid that much for two 5-packs.

But that lets you know what the nut is.

Before pulling, I plan to hose it down with PBlaster or Kroil several times the week before.

RwP