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There's gotta be something going on with that alternator. The terminal block, the brushes, sumpin'. Here I've been blaming myself all along. I'm taking that back. Lesson: Avoid using remanufactured parts if you can.
It used to be, the reman fellers were just fine. But, the last few years, the part quality for even NEW parts has tanked. Can't count the number of bad parts I have gotten right out of the box the last two years....
It used to be, the reman fellers were just fine. But, the last few years, the part quality for even NEW parts has tanked. Can't count the number of bad parts I have gotten right out of the box the last two years....
And it goes far beyond the cost of the part. Think of the labor it takes to repair things. And think of the aggravation and frustration in chasing down the problem only to find you have a defective part (like I've gone thru with this voltage problem).
It is probably just a weak solder joint between dissimilar metals that relied on the plastic it is embedded in to prevent it from breaking.
I wont rule that out. And it could still have been me overtightening the nut or maybe bumped the stud or something. But I kinda doubt that. I find it peculiar that one brush has worn significantly more than the other. Something going on there.
Not sure how well you can see this but the bottom brush extends a good .150 of an inch further than the top brush. I'm no electrician and I'm no motor man and I'm not even the Fuller brush man but this can't be right.
Also, go to the 3:17 mark in video below. He explains the brushes on these things. I'm kinda kicking myself for not looking closer at where those brushes ride (rotor slip ring he calls it). For some reason I didn't. I could have seen if that was the problem.
IDK how that part is put together. I would assume each brush has its own spring. It could be as simple as one spring being stronger. I think your suspicion might be correct. If it aint borked....
IDK how that part is put together. I would assume each brush has its own spring. It could be as simple as one spring being stronger. I think your suspicion might be correct. If it aint borked....
I wont have a lot of patience with it, that I know. It starts acting funny in any way and I'm pulling the trigger on a new alternator. A new (not remaned) OE Denso alternator from RockAuto is $100. I would have gladly spent $1,000 3 years ago when this problem first reared its ugly head. I'm fairly certain now there is a component (or two) in this remanufactured alternator that is failing. Who knows what these people do when they remanufacture stuff. "Good enough" seems to be their standard.
OK, I've had enough. It's acting up again but in a different way. Instead of the dash needle dancing around, now it takes its time after start up to get to it's regular position. About 5-10 seconds. Some times it's just a gradual but steady climb. Some times it climbs a bit faster and shakes for a few seconds before settling in. Also, on occasion, I'll pull up to a stop light and the gauge will sink a little then climb right back to its normal position when I hit the gas. Nothing particularly consistent. Also, I find the needle will be holding higher for a period then lower. Seems this thing has a mind of its own. I'm done playing with this alternator and I want to take it out of the discussion. I'm buying a new one (not remanufactured).
I just checked my window sticker from when I bought the truck brand new. It says the original alternator is a 75 amp alternator. I was always thinking it was a 90 amp. Clearly I thought wrong. I replaced it 8 years ago with a remanufactured alternator from Advanced Auto. I checked the Dodge Factory Parts Catalog. It lists three different alternators...a 75 amp, 90 amp, and a 120 amp. I have no record of this remanufactured alternator so I cannot be certain what the amps are. Question is which alternator should I get?? Original was a 75 amp, no idea what this remanufactured is. I haven't added any boom boxes, trailers, LEDs or anything that saps power. Nothing has changed from stock. Perhaps a 75 amp is perfectly fine but would it hurt to get the 90 amp?
75 amp would indeed be fine. 90 or 120 amp won't hurt anything. There is no kill like overkill.
I would be tempted to be looking for a PCM as well, and eliminate the external regulator as well.
Indeed, another PCM with working regulator is definitely on my list. Who knows the odds of getting one with a functioning regulator, however. Meanwhile, I’m going to replace that dang alternator and scratch it off my list of “ what’s left is what’s wrong”. I’m tired of thinking about that thing.
Anyway, a new alternator is the cheaper option at this point and to tell you the truth my confidence in that thing is shattered. Get a load of this. A Denso 75 amp at RA is $154. A 120 amp is $108. A 90 amp is $97. Think I’ll get the 90 amp. I believe Denso is OE. Thx HY
Meanwhile, I’m going to replace that dang alternator and scratch it off my list of “ what’s left is what’s wrong”. I’m tired of thinking about that thing.