That looks like a really good plan. Will you still be able to slide it out with the bed in place?? (bumper??)

 

With the bed in place? Depends on what kind of roll pan I put in, and how it will be mounted. With a bumper installed, the bumper will have to come off first. I am thinking about installing rivnuts upside down in the tank flange holes, so all the tank mounting bolts can be removed from below, and putting a 1/8" rubber strip between the tank flange and the mounting frame for vibration resistance as well.

 

That is some nice clean work. It is all nice clean work.
Two questions, 1. Is the side flange on the tank able to hold the weight of it filled? 2. Is the tank going to be protected by anything other than the body?

 

The tank is supported by a flange that runs around all four sides. All of those flanges will be resting on a 1/8" thick steel frame, so yes, the flanges will hold the weight of a full tank. The manufacture stressed that all side flanges must be supported. I don't plan on adding anything to cover the tank other than the bed of the truck (which will have a wood floor installed). This vehicle is my retirement hot rod, so it will probably only be driven to car shows and meets.

 

The fuel tank mounting frame is tack welded in place. The rear angle (rusty one) will be bolted in place where the blue clamps are. That completes the surrounding support. All holes are drilled, and the tank test fitted, so I am ready to finalize the welding. Due to the position I wanted the tank in, a small concession was needed to fit the fuel filler and hose. Not a big deal.

 

What did you use to cut that? Nice and clean, consistent radius..... I could never do something like that by hand.

 

It was cut by hand, using a jig saw. I filed and rounded the corners using smooth files, both flat and rat tail.

 

Ah. Ok. That's reasonable.

 

After much trial and error, I finally got the engine mount adapter plates finished. The engine fits perfectly now. There is a drawing on a DYI website showing the dimensions for an adapter plate "generic to the LS platform". After trusting these dimensions, and fighting the fit, I started over. First, taking all new measurements and comparing them to that online drawing. I found the vertical distance between the two upper threads and the two lower threads were .062" closer to each other than the drawing depicted. Hmmm. Apparently not all LS blocks are the same. This is my first time playing around with an LS engine, and my first time using a V8. I'm still learning not to trust everything you see online. The drawing came from a GM/LS discussion forum - You would think that drawing is correct for some of the LS platforms. The adapter plates are made from 1/4" x 5" cold rolled flat bar. I bought new, stock Dakota motor mounts. They will be removed (again), deburred, and painted before going back in. To get the pinion angle correct I will need to make some spacers to raise the transmission cross member. Then all of the drivetrain mounts will be complete.

 

This is the template I started with. The vertical dimension of 3.125" was actually 3.062 on my LS3 block.

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...wap-templates/