'94 Dakota body swap
#1
'94 Dakota body swap
Hi all! I am starting a new project using a '94 as the starting point. I picked up a '52 Studebaker pick up that a farmer in Idaho mounted on an unknown GM or Dodge 3/4 ton 4wd chassis. The frame was shortened to match the Stude body, and, well, it was done by a farmer. The frame splice is a bit scary, to be honest. So after a lot of internet searching, I found the 1st gen Dakotas are a pretty good match. The wheelbase is exactly the same, and the track width is within an inch (which can be resolved with wheel selection). The Dakota I found has been sitting under a tree for the last 10 years and is in pretty sorry shape, but perfect for a donor chassis. Plans are to blow apart the Dakota this winter and get the chassis blasted clean. The overall plan for this project is to go with a pro street vibe, 2wd, lowered (but not slammed). I am still undecided on the drivetrain but I am currently leaning toward using the non-running 5.2l Magnum engine - full rebuild, stroked to 390 cu in, performance heads, intake, and convert it from EFI to a carburetor. I want to go with a 5 speed manual transmission as well. Four link the rear end. I like the patina on the Stude, so I will probably just do a satin clear on it after some minor sheet metal repairs. My grandfather owned a Studebaker dealership back in Illinois, so I plan on having his dealer logo air brushed onto the doors with a worn look to match the truck's patina. I guess it's my way of giving a tribute to my grandfather. This is by far the biggest project I have undertaken. Let the fun begin!
The following 2 users liked this post by TheSneeze:
Crazy4x4RT (10-14-2022),
Tw1ZZLER (01-16-2023)
#3
I was thinking about using an Aisin AR5. I have read it will handle the power I am after. It will adapt to a Chevy motor, flywheel, and clutch with an adapter plate, I am just not sure yet if it can be mated to Dodge stuff. Still doing research (which is free!).
This is not my truck - it's a '58 Studebaker Scotsman model, but it has the stance I am after.
This is not my truck - it's a '58 Studebaker Scotsman model, but it has the stance I am after.
Last edited by TheSneeze; 10-14-2022 at 04:38 PM. Reason: adding a picture
#4
#5
I was originally thinking of going with an LS. Getting new crate LS motors is really expensive. Getting used ones from an auto dismantler in my area is also a bit problematic as the only good ones are three hours away. Stroking the Magnum I have would net me a brand new engine for a lot less money than a LS crate motor of any flavor. It would also give an old school look under the hood of this old school truck. And easier to wire up going carb instead of the EFI. Everything is still on the table with this project - I have quite a bit of work to do before any permanent drivetrain decisions are made.
#6
#7
What a rabbit hole when researching engine/drivetrain possibilities with this project! Trying to balance the want list with the budget list. Configuration at the front of the list so far is stick with the 5.2l Magnum and put in a stroker kit, Edelbrock heads and manifold. Hughes Whiplash camshaft with roller rockers. Wallowing between carb and a Holley Sniper EFI setup. Stick with the A518 trans, but go with a Monster built to handle the HP and torque increase. This simplifies the cross member and driveshaft expenses by going with stock. I really wanted to go five speed manual, but the effort involved just isn't panning out for me when I can get a A518 trans rated up to 600 HP from Monster. My donor truck has the 8.25" limited slip rear axle. I have read guys not having problems using this unit with extra power. Jury is still out on that. I will get rid of the springs and go four link with coil overs no matter which rear axle I go with.
The following users liked this post:
Tw1ZZLER (01-16-2023)
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#8
Most folks don't have trouble with the rear axle, simply because the truck is traction-limited how much power it can actually put down. The rear is LIGHT with an empty box..... so the rear really isn't stressed that much, regardless of how much power you are pushing. Now, put some fat, sticky tires on the ends of that axle, and it may be a different story. The LSDs in them leave a bit to be desired, they like to spit out retainer clips for the clutches, and they can get into some odd places, and really chew things up. (same problem with the lsd in the 9.25 rear as well.)
That said, the 8.25 is pretty stout.
That said, the 8.25 is pretty stout.
#10
Today I started the tear down. This has to be the filthiest vehicle I have worked on. I picked up a Haynes manual to help find hidden fasteners. I am working toward getting the motor out and disassembled so I can take the block to the machine shop. The condition of the block will answer several questions on how I move forward on the heart of this project. I call it a Studefrankenbaker.
The following users liked this post:
Tw1ZZLER (01-16-2023)