I'm thinking about ditching the shty composite tub radiator in my D for an aftermarket universal fit 2 core all auminum radiator with tig welded tubs that won't blow out like the stock junker.

Anyone else tried this before?

I found one for $179 without trans line taps which is ok because I plan on cooling the tranny with a 11x8x1 1/2" B&M Supercooler.

The only snag I've seen is the resivour/ shroud may interfere with the radiator cap back where it belongs, on the radiator, not the top hose.

Another interesting tid bit is the D radiator is not std Mopar top passenger side bottom driver side, but just the opposite like a Chevy. So I gotta order a Chevy style radiator.

Hoses, easy, just gotta get the stainless steel ones and custom cut to fit, about $50 a piece. OEM top hose is special order for $104 in my neck of the woods[:@]

I measured it out and it looks like a 31x19" will do.

Think'n of ditching the clutch fan for a pair of 12" 3000 cfm e-fans and a 8" e-fan for the tranny cooler all run off thermal control circuits and a higher amp alternator for good measure while retaining the stock a/c e-fan or replacing it, for a total of 4 e-fans and no clutch fans.

If anyone has at least tried replacing the radiator, with one that has the cap on the radiator, please put in yer 2 cents!

 

I wouldn't run so many e-fans unless you're running a yellowtop and a HD alt, another thing is that if you are going to upgrade the rad get a 4 core one.

 

I was just wondering why your replacing the radiator? The stock one works pretty good. My truck has never overheated during burnouts, racing, stop and go traffic, etc. The electric fan is a good idea though.

 

D911 my D has about 56k milage and every vehicle I've owned in Vegas has blown a tub gasket shortly after the 50k mi. mark. I guess it's our summer months with the heat waves in the 120F temps, however this one runs about 210-220 with the stock 195 stat and a heavy duty fan clutch that stays locked in even when you punch it I can hear the fan at 60 mph.

MG I'm going with the 2 core 31"x19"x1" aluminum race radiator that has no trans cooling, as the stocker is a 2 core and does ok even with the extra load of the tranny oil's heat I forsee no problem with 2 cores.

Alternator 160 amp (stock is 136 amp)

Radiator fans2 12" 3000 cfm 2100 rpm 8 amp draw each

A/C fan still undecided ( haven't measured the stock e-fan for fitment, amp draw or cfm draw)

Trans 11"x8"x 1 1/2" B7M Supercooler rated at 20500 BTU's with 8" e-fan at 3400 rpm 800 cfm 6 amp draw.

This gives the radiator 6000 cfms of fan at 16 amps alone. I want the D to run at 200F in the dead heat of summer and I want the trans running cool also. The A/C condesor I want cooled at over kill as well because when it's 116F out like today, the inside of the D is about 130F and it's hard for the A/C to pull it down quick as the system was designed for 85F weather.

I figure this mod will run alittle under $1000 & umpteen hrs of blood sweat and tears. I'm buy'n the parts hear and there and will install while on vacation as the D is my only ride at the moment, thank god the wife don't drive! But she don't work either.

I'm running a 1000 cca red top right now, if need be I'll re-do the battery housing and run two of 'em in paralell for double the amp hours.

P.S. D911 Las Vegas summers = hell with casinos!

 

Well it sounds like a good setup, but if I were you, I would lose that 195 t-stat and get a 180. That's something that'll help you out right now, and it's cheap/easy to do.

 

Not to thread jack or anything, but are the 180's good for somewhat cold winters too? like the coldest maybe getting 15 cuz my heater already sucks

 

They are better for the engine. The only reason they put a 195 in is for emissions. I would recomend it to anyone with the 5.9L or the 5.2L.

Heater gets way cooler but it's is so much better for the engine. You might have a plugged heater core and that might be your heater problem.

 

yeah the previous owner had a broke radiator cap and when i checked it, the fliud was rusty like bright orange so i flushed a few times and then the freeze plugs started blowing out, then the tranny blew up. So who knows whats clogged up in there

 

At current the stock stat is ok because I'm running a heavy duty fan clutch that does'nt kick out even at 70mph on the freeway I can hear the thing running. My D runs around 210-220 even in the heat wave we had last week with sustained temps around 118F. The needle on my lame stock no numberstemp gauge never reaches half.

But on my past hot rods I always ran a 180 stat that I drilled 2 1/8" holes in to keep 'em running cold, it's a good idea for a hot rod, but can make the smog junk on these newwer vehiclesgive you a headache.

The reason for my radiator build is that the next step is one of those Hughes intake manifolds & tb, aluminum pocket ported heads, new cam, tri-y headers, and maybe even a supercharger. I'm looking to push her past 400hp in the near future. A 360 can do so much more than what it does stock. Dodge really has me scratch'n my head sometimes when I open the D's hood, think'n what a waste of a good 8, I mean come on the stock air box and intake manifold are a joke.Nothing a few grand in parts and umpteen hours of quality wrench turn'n can't fix though.

Too bad I can't do a 426 Hemi with custom fuel injection and pass smog then I'd be satiafied, oh well I think I'd have to dust off the old Miller 251 and lengthen the front end and frame to even fit a 426 in it.

 

Lil Red,

Just FYI, when your D reaches the 210 mark, the PCM will put your D running in limp mode. Meaning you will feel power loss and possibly lower MPG's. This is by design from Factory to keep your engine from being overworked when it is starting to overheat. The oem radiator may be slowly going out as it is not doing its job keeping your engine under 210 even in 116 degrees of heat outside! Dallas was like this last summer and after replacing my fan clutch, I been able to stay within 200 degrees even when it is over 100 degrees outside.