engine failure questions
#11
05-09-2009, 05:07 PM
Champion
There is and it is on the 4.7s only. The PCV gets a 'snot' buildup due to air and moisture. Unknowingly, many think THAT is sludge. Isn't.
How many top ends off have you seen pictured on 5.xs or 4.7s? Intake replacement photos? Valve cover replacement photos? Ever see sludge? Nope.
IndyD
How many top ends off have you seen pictured on 5.xs or 4.7s? Intake replacement photos? Valve cover replacement photos? Ever see sludge? Nope.
IndyD
Last edited by IndyDurango; 05-10-2009 at 07:30 PM.
#12
05-10-2009, 02:48 PM
Hall Of Fame
There is and it is on the 4.7s only. The PCV gets a 'snot' buildup due to air and moisture. Unknowingly, many thing THAT is sludge. Isn't.
How many top ends off have you seen pictured on 5.xs or 4.7s? Intake replacement photos? Valve cover replacement photos? Ever see sludge? Nope.
IndyD
How many top ends off have you seen pictured on 5.xs or 4.7s? Intake replacement photos? Valve cover replacement photos? Ever see sludge? Nope.
IndyD
I ment that this particular thing was off topic and said it was a moisture issue. This has nothing to do with sluge. Fact is that the issue caused brown build up and could result in inaccurate lubricant levels. I looked into it but couldn't find it. Do you know where it is?
#13
05-10-2009, 03:47 PM
THE ULTI-MOD
idk about the pcv getting it, but i occasionally get (in the winter) a build up of like yellowish/white stuff in the filler neck, just the same "snot" type stuff you are talking about and from the moisture, as long as it gets cleaned out before the new oil is poured in at change time its not an issue IMO,
#15
05-10-2009, 11:41 PM
Champion
All Gen1 4.7s
Service Bulletin Number: 090100A
CUSTOMER MAY COMPLAIN OF AN OIL EMULSION ACCUMULATION INSIDE THE ENGINE OIL FILL HOUSING
Need to install the following 2 parts
53032126AA Baffle, Oil Fill Housing ($1.20)
53032389AD Cap, Oil Fill Housing ($5.10)
Also replace the PCV valve as well. Here is more detail:
Here is the neck with all the snot... NOT sludge.
and
If my 5.9L had a snot issue, I'd die! OMG!
Indy(not a 4.7 expert)Durango
Service Bulletin Number: 090100A
CUSTOMER MAY COMPLAIN OF AN OIL EMULSION ACCUMULATION INSIDE THE ENGINE OIL FILL HOUSING
Need to install the following 2 parts
53032126AA Baffle, Oil Fill Housing ($1.20)
53032389AD Cap, Oil Fill Housing ($5.10)
Also replace the PCV valve as well. Here is more detail:
Originally Posted by tomk
More detail:
The PCV valve is up in the filler neck (instead of the valve cover where it's on a lof of other engines). When it's doing it's job, the PCV system sucks vapors out of the crankcase to be run back through the intake and burned. These vapors are warm, but the filler neck is (relatively) cold… so the vapors tend to condense on the inner surfaces.
The new filler neck has a removeable baffle that mostly keeps the bulk of the vapors out of the part of the filler neck that you can see… and I *think* the filler cap is modified to have a bit of an insulating air space…
This topic often pops up when cold weather sets in, because the filler is that much colder and thus more likely to have condensation…
The PCV valve is up in the filler neck (instead of the valve cover where it's on a lof of other engines). When it's doing it's job, the PCV system sucks vapors out of the crankcase to be run back through the intake and burned. These vapors are warm, but the filler neck is (relatively) cold… so the vapors tend to condense on the inner surfaces.
The new filler neck has a removeable baffle that mostly keeps the bulk of the vapors out of the part of the filler neck that you can see… and I *think* the filler cap is modified to have a bit of an insulating air space…
This topic often pops up when cold weather sets in, because the filler is that much colder and thus more likely to have condensation…
and
If my 5.9L had a snot issue, I'd die! OMG!
Indy(not a 4.7 expert)Durango
#16
05-11-2009, 06:16 AM
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The above photos show what appear to be a extreme example, but here is the conditions when I observed it the most.
Cold dry weather, early morning in the winter. I had about a seven minute drive from home to work for two winters in a row. It was just enough for the engine to get semi warm and the condensation to accumulate in the baffle. I will not speak for everyone but those two winters, here was my solution. I purchased the vehicle in DEC06. ran the minor "SNOT" for the winter and had a oil change around the end of MAR 07. Ran summer with no problems then around OCT 07 I had another oil change. Winter of 07 had minor "SNOT", and again April 08 had another oil change. Oil change cleaned out the condensation. Last winter my ride to work was about 15-20 minutes so the engine had more time to warm up and burn off the condensation. Basically it is a plastic oil neck and the metal of the engine and not a whole lot that can be done. Yes it was a poor design by Chrysler but I guess there is no sense crying over spilled milk now. During the winter months I monitored the oil cap, and cleaned what I could, even removing the baffle and wiping off the condensation as necessary This winter I had no issues with the condensation so I am figuring it is a problem with short runs when the engine gets warm enough to pool the condensation but not warm enough to burn it off. Again once my commute turned longer there was no condensation after this winter.
Obviously oil and water dont mix well, but at least in my case, it was a minor issue, and it appears that most of the snot was contained in the filler neck portion, and not circulated throughout the whole system. If you know what conditions exist for the presence of the "SNOT" and monitor, inspect and clean the filler neck, baffle and cap as necesssary and perform a oil change at the end of winter, I wouldnt see any major issues. Short of a class action lawsuit for Chrysler, which they need like a hole in the head right now, I don't think there is much you can do. It sounds like from previous threads that the baffle helped a lot but still there is a certain amount of monitoring that the driver should comply with.
Hope this helps.
Steve
Cold dry weather, early morning in the winter. I had about a seven minute drive from home to work for two winters in a row. It was just enough for the engine to get semi warm and the condensation to accumulate in the baffle. I will not speak for everyone but those two winters, here was my solution. I purchased the vehicle in DEC06. ran the minor "SNOT" for the winter and had a oil change around the end of MAR 07. Ran summer with no problems then around OCT 07 I had another oil change. Winter of 07 had minor "SNOT", and again April 08 had another oil change. Oil change cleaned out the condensation. Last winter my ride to work was about 15-20 minutes so the engine had more time to warm up and burn off the condensation. Basically it is a plastic oil neck and the metal of the engine and not a whole lot that can be done. Yes it was a poor design by Chrysler but I guess there is no sense crying over spilled milk now. During the winter months I monitored the oil cap, and cleaned what I could, even removing the baffle and wiping off the condensation as necessary This winter I had no issues with the condensation so I am figuring it is a problem with short runs when the engine gets warm enough to pool the condensation but not warm enough to burn it off. Again once my commute turned longer there was no condensation after this winter.
Obviously oil and water dont mix well, but at least in my case, it was a minor issue, and it appears that most of the snot was contained in the filler neck portion, and not circulated throughout the whole system. If you know what conditions exist for the presence of the "SNOT" and monitor, inspect and clean the filler neck, baffle and cap as necesssary and perform a oil change at the end of winter, I wouldnt see any major issues. Short of a class action lawsuit for Chrysler, which they need like a hole in the head right now, I don't think there is much you can do. It sounds like from previous threads that the baffle helped a lot but still there is a certain amount of monitoring that the driver should comply with.
Hope this helps.
Steve
#17
05-11-2009, 03:53 PM
Hall Of Fame
I thought the was a 4.7L TSB for this issue but i couln't find it. Thanks for the post Indy!
Even with the snot that it can make there isn't enough made to show a incorrect lubricant level like i stated earlier. In those pic's your showing there is maybe only a couple of TSP of lubricant at the most could be involved. It would take a lot more than that to give inaccurate level on the dip stick.
Even with the snot that it can make there isn't enough made to show a incorrect lubricant level like i stated earlier. In those pic's your showing there is maybe only a couple of TSP of lubricant at the most could be involved. It would take a lot more than that to give inaccurate level on the dip stick.
#18
05-12-2009, 04:11 AM
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well I ended up driving back to buy it. I also talked him down to $2000. Now that I own it, I can say it was off craigslist in atlanta. it's a black SLT with power everything and leather (mmmmm).
I'm going to post a seperate post, but I need to know if I can tow a durango with a durango. the towing capacity is like 400lbs less than the weight of the vehicle which could be a problem, but can I add the max load to the tow rating?
I'm going to post a seperate post, but I need to know if I can tow a durango with a durango. the towing capacity is like 400lbs less than the weight of the vehicle which could be a problem, but can I add the max load to the tow rating?
#19
05-12-2009, 12:45 PM
