2000 Durango A/C Puzzle
#1
2000 Durango A/C Puzzle
Alrighty, after an entire day searching the internet, and finding similar problems, I've arrived at the conclusion that my "blend door" is messed up.
My Rear A/C (the overhead console) blows rather cold, but my front A/C vents blow slightly warm. I've come to the conclusion that when I let my dad drive my truck, he wrenched the A/C temperature control **** so hard, that it has GOT to be stuck a few notches above the farthest one can go on "cold".
I had a similar problem with my 1995 Mustang, after a particularly cold night, my Trans shift selector got wrenched out of position, and it would say it was in park, but wasn't, and I had to put it in "neutral" to actually drive forwards. I just crawled under it, loosened the bolt, and slid the shift lever back to the proper place on the bar.
could this be that easy? I've found NOTHING on the internet as to the LOCATION of this "blend door", or instructions to access the temp selector ****.
I was in the truck a few minutes ago looking under the dash/hood with a flashlight and could see nothing.
After I changed out the Cap/Rotor/Wires I had to unhook a vacuum line, and forgot to plug it back in, and lost all ability to select the location the cold/hot air comes out (Defrost vents/Main vents/Floor vents). I plugged this line back in, and that fixed that problem. Could this be a leaking vacuum line? and if so, where can I locate it?
I also noticed that the A/C radiator (I know that isn't the name for it, lol) in front of the Engine radiator, the lines coming in and going out are VERY hot. but the metal A/C lines near the firewall are ice cold. is this normal?
My Rear A/C (the overhead console) blows rather cold, but my front A/C vents blow slightly warm. I've come to the conclusion that when I let my dad drive my truck, he wrenched the A/C temperature control **** so hard, that it has GOT to be stuck a few notches above the farthest one can go on "cold".
I had a similar problem with my 1995 Mustang, after a particularly cold night, my Trans shift selector got wrenched out of position, and it would say it was in park, but wasn't, and I had to put it in "neutral" to actually drive forwards. I just crawled under it, loosened the bolt, and slid the shift lever back to the proper place on the bar.
could this be that easy? I've found NOTHING on the internet as to the LOCATION of this "blend door", or instructions to access the temp selector ****.
I was in the truck a few minutes ago looking under the dash/hood with a flashlight and could see nothing.
After I changed out the Cap/Rotor/Wires I had to unhook a vacuum line, and forgot to plug it back in, and lost all ability to select the location the cold/hot air comes out (Defrost vents/Main vents/Floor vents). I plugged this line back in, and that fixed that problem. Could this be a leaking vacuum line? and if so, where can I locate it?
I also noticed that the A/C radiator (I know that isn't the name for it, lol) in front of the Engine radiator, the lines coming in and going out are VERY hot. but the metal A/C lines near the firewall are ice cold. is this normal?
#2
Hi Fubar, did an advanced search for ya. Here's the link to the results:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=965847
You may be right, a vacuum line controls the blend door.
And the rear ac has its own system so the front control won't affect it. The smaller radiator located in front of the regular radiator is called the ac condenser coil and it IS supposed to be hot on both lines. HTH.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=965847
You may be right, a vacuum line controls the blend door.
And the rear ac has its own system so the front control won't affect it. The smaller radiator located in front of the regular radiator is called the ac condenser coil and it IS supposed to be hot on both lines. HTH.
#3
Welcome Fubar!........ I like that one
1. Could be the blend door.
2. There is an adjustment but I'm not sure the switch you have. Can you upload a pic?
3. Follow the line down from the switch to the blend door. Again see #2^.
4. What motor are we working on? Sounds like a 5.9L?
5.9L
This is the location of the vacuum line that goes to the heater blend door and goes into the cab firewall with the heater core lines. (little black one) Check the vacuum lines if it keeps moving (Defrost vents/Main vents/Floor vents). Also check the psi on the freon BC it could be low.
1. Could be the blend door.
2. There is an adjustment but I'm not sure the switch you have. Can you upload a pic?
3. Follow the line down from the switch to the blend door. Again see #2^.
4. What motor are we working on? Sounds like a 5.9L?
5.9L
This is the location of the vacuum line that goes to the heater blend door and goes into the cab firewall with the heater core lines. (little black one) Check the vacuum lines if it keeps moving (Defrost vents/Main vents/Floor vents). Also check the psi on the freon BC it could be low.
#4
yes, it is a 5.9l, I've checked the vacuum lines, and they are all secure. When that line that is in the pic was unplugged, I couldn't switch the air to anything. I reconnected that, and regained control of it. I added some 134 to the system yesterday, and it seemed a tad cooler. I think I'm going to have to take it to a shop and get some pro gauges put on it to tell for sure, because the one I have at the moment isn't very accurate. But as far as I can tell there is plenty of 134 in the system.
Does that vacuum line in the pic also control the blend door?
Dans01Durango, your link leads to a blank page btw.
I need to get at the back of the temperature control ****, and see what kind of connection it has (electronic, vacuum, manual) and see if there is an adjustment.
I also could really use a Blown up diagram of the entire ventilation system (showing from intake, through the blower, and out the vents).
Also, I regularly detect a slight whiff of coolant inside the truck (after it gets to normal operating temperature). it's not overpowering, and there is no coolant leak inside.
The Radiator cap is on the Upper hose, I think it's leaking slightly (still have the stock hose on, still valiantly searching for a metal flex top hose (with the filler neck/cap on it) but no luck yet.
Does that vacuum line in the pic also control the blend door?
Dans01Durango, your link leads to a blank page btw.
I need to get at the back of the temperature control ****, and see what kind of connection it has (electronic, vacuum, manual) and see if there is an adjustment.
I also could really use a Blown up diagram of the entire ventilation system (showing from intake, through the blower, and out the vents).
Also, I regularly detect a slight whiff of coolant inside the truck (after it gets to normal operating temperature). it's not overpowering, and there is no coolant leak inside.
The Radiator cap is on the Upper hose, I think it's leaking slightly (still have the stock hose on, still valiantly searching for a metal flex top hose (with the filler neck/cap on it) but no luck yet.
#6
Oops... Sorry about that. Here's the link again:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=969231
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=969231
#7
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#8
If you are pulling the entire dash, replace the evap, the heater core and the blower motor. You do not want to have to pull the dash again to replace these common long term failure items.
Here is my thread on my heater core, blower motor and evap replacement.
IndyD
Here is my thread on my heater core, blower motor and evap replacement.
IndyD
#10
If you want to do it the cheap and easy way, disconnect the two heater hoses that connect thru the firewall and onto the heater core and connect the two hoses with a coupler fitting. Get some rubber plugs or duct tape the openings to the heater core. This way, you will bypass the heating side al together during the summer months. When winter arrives, you can reconnect the heater hoses back to the heater core.
Wished that Chrysler would have install an auto bypass system so no hot antifreeze will have to flow into the system whenever cooling is called for in the cabin.
Wished that Chrysler would have install an auto bypass system so no hot antifreeze will have to flow into the system whenever cooling is called for in the cabin.