02 Rear end howls
#1
11-19-2009, 09:01 AM
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02 Rear end howls
So the rear end in my 02 SLT started howling and I opened it up to take a look. I thought it was an open diff but know I am not sure. Take a look at the image.
http://thehoovers.com/images/durango_rear.jpg
Is that an open diff or a posi, I know the rear end is a Corporate 9. Also take a look at the spider (?) gears and you can see some wear and what I assume is the cause of the howling. I tried to get some over the phone pricing on a repair but they seemed really high ($1500), I cleaned it out, put the cover back on and filled it with Royal Purple. Is this something that I can fix myself or does it take some expertise and how long will it go like this before locking up or something...
Thanks!
Bill
http://thehoovers.com/images/durango_rear.jpg
Is that an open diff or a posi, I know the rear end is a Corporate 9. Also take a look at the spider (?) gears and you can see some wear and what I assume is the cause of the howling. I tried to get some over the phone pricing on a repair but they seemed really high ($1500), I cleaned it out, put the cover back on and filled it with Royal Purple. Is this something that I can fix myself or does it take some expertise and how long will it go like this before locking up or something...
Thanks!
Bill
#2
11-19-2009, 01:03 PM
Hall Of Fame
That is a Chrysler 9.25 Trok-loc (Limited Slip) Differential. Question is, do you have any more pictures or only the one?
Track Lock Differential Rebuild
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...c-lok-lsd.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...lp-please.html
Track Lock Differential Rebuild
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...c-lok-lsd.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-...lp-please.html
#3
11-19-2009, 01:09 PM
Hall Of Fame
#4
11-19-2009, 01:43 PM
Actually hydra, that is an open diff. You can tell by the shape of the right side of the carrier. This is his...
And this is the trak-lok...
And this is my old open diff (ignore the arrow)...
DSCN0426.jpg?t=1258656162
And this is the trak-lok...
And this is my old open diff (ignore the arrow)...
DSCN0426.jpg?t=1258656162
Last edited by 95_318SLT; 11-19-2009 at 01:50 PM.
#5
11-19-2009, 03:59 PM
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I have more pics but they are all different views of the gears only, is there something else you wanted to see? I was told by one shop that because it has spider gears it is not an open diff. Not sure of when the lube was changed last if ever, has 130k on the rearend but it was not low when I pulled the fill plug when I first inspected it. Could it be that the howl is a bearing and the wear on the gears is not making the noise? Any suggestions on where to look for parts? I will read the threads you posted on rebuilding the Track Loc when I get home from work. I would also like to confirm if the diff is open or Track Loc.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
#6
11-19-2009, 04:19 PM
That differential is open... I'm 100% sure about that. Whatever shop told you open diffs don't have spider gears... you never need to go back there ever again!! Open diffs have always and will always have spider gears, and most limited slip diffs have spider gears as well. The only kind of differential that don't are lockers. But in this particular case, what determines if it is open or a LSD is if it has clutches in it, but for me, I recognize the differences in the carriers cause I've dealt with both of those.
Here is an explanation of axle noise according to the FSM:
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
Here is an explanation of axle noise according to the FSM:
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant.
Incorrect backlash, tooth contact, or worn/damaged
gears can cause noise.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The range is 30 to 40 mph, or above 50 mph.
The noise can also occur during a specific type of
driving condition. These conditions are acceleration,
deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, accelerate the vehicle to the
speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift
out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range.
If the noise stops or changes greatly, check for insufficient
lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash, or
gear damage can cause noise changes.
Differential side and pinion gears can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise in straight-ahead driving. These gears are
loaded during vehicle turns. If noise does occur during
vehicle turns, the side or pinion gears could be
worn or damaged. A worn pinion gear mate shaft can
also cause a snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion gear bearings
can all produce noise when worn or damaged.
Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling
sound.
Pinion gear bearings have a constant-pitch noise.
This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion
bearing noise will be higher because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential.
If bearing noise occurs the pinion rear bearing is
the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard
during a coast, front bearing is the source.
Worn, damaged differential bearings usually produce
a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing. The pitch of differential
bearing noise is also constant and varies only with
vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant.
Incorrect backlash, tooth contact, or worn/damaged
gears can cause noise.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The range is 30 to 40 mph, or above 50 mph.
The noise can also occur during a specific type of
driving condition. These conditions are acceleration,
deceleration, coast, or constant load.
When road testing, accelerate the vehicle to the
speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift
out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range.
If the noise stops or changes greatly, check for insufficient
lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash, or
gear damage can cause noise changes.
Differential side and pinion gears can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise in straight-ahead driving. These gears are
loaded during vehicle turns. If noise does occur during
vehicle turns, the side or pinion gears could be
worn or damaged. A worn pinion gear mate shaft can
also cause a snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion gear bearings
can all produce noise when worn or damaged.
Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling
sound.
Pinion gear bearings have a constant-pitch noise.
This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion
bearing noise will be higher because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential.
If bearing noise occurs the pinion rear bearing is
the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard
during a coast, front bearing is the source.
Worn, damaged differential bearings usually produce
a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing. The pitch of differential
bearing noise is also constant and varies only with
vehicle speed.
Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes
when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle.
Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right.
This will load the bearings and change the noise
level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise
is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph.
#7
11-19-2009, 08:25 PM
Hall Of Fame
LOL.....I didn' see that!
Yes thats an open rear end. Please post any infomative pictures you have? YES you have an issue with the gearing IMHO causing the ware you can see with only 130k on the clock. The main question is WHY! Any gearing photos are good photos but also look for play, and do tell?
Yes thats an open rear end. Please post any infomative pictures you have? YES you have an issue with the gearing IMHO causing the ware you can see with only 130k on the clock. The main question is WHY! Any gearing photos are good photos but also look for play, and do tell?
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#8
11-20-2009, 05:33 PM
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#9
11-20-2009, 05:51 PM
Yes, the carrier has to come out and the bearings need to be pulled off and pressed on. Based on the damage shown in your picture, and if you have the money, you should upgrade to the trac-lok LSD. It wouldn't be any more work than you already have in front of you. You can order the carrier, get bearings pressed on it, press on the ABS exciter ring, and bolt your ring gear to it and drop it back in.
I don't know your mechanical experience, but if you feel comfortable about setting the ring gear backlash, you can follow my rebuild page as linked above and just ignore all the parts about replacing the carrier's internals and skip straight to re-setting the carrier.
I don't know your mechanical experience, but if you feel comfortable about setting the ring gear backlash, you can follow my rebuild page as linked above and just ignore all the parts about replacing the carrier's internals and skip straight to re-setting the carrier.