code P0740
#1
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I need help asap on this..2002 durango 4.7L 2wd
I came home for lunch 3 days ago an when I went into park the engine light came on, I played the ignition an code 0700 came up, trans prob, ok.
I drove it back to work with no problem,it stumbled a bit when I needed to punch it then no problem.
I cleared the code and it stayed off but the trans started to slip,it will go through all of the gears but it is running btw 200 an 500 rpm higher.
Then after about 30miles the light came back on.
I hooked my DRBII up an it pulled up code
07400
Torque Converter
Clutch Circuit
Malfunction
I just pulled the pan,the fluid wasnt too bad, I just put new filters an fluid in it back in Feb.
No metal or anything in pan.
I have in the past had to replace the high speed pressure transducer 2x but that was 2 yrs ago an a completly different code.
Has any body else encountered this problem??
I came home for lunch 3 days ago an when I went into park the engine light came on, I played the ignition an code 0700 came up, trans prob, ok.
I drove it back to work with no problem,it stumbled a bit when I needed to punch it then no problem.
I cleared the code and it stayed off but the trans started to slip,it will go through all of the gears but it is running btw 200 an 500 rpm higher.
Then after about 30miles the light came back on.
I hooked my DRBII up an it pulled up code
07400
Torque Converter
Clutch Circuit
Malfunction
I just pulled the pan,the fluid wasnt too bad, I just put new filters an fluid in it back in Feb.
No metal or anything in pan.
I have in the past had to replace the high speed pressure transducer 2x but that was 2 yrs ago an a completly different code.
Has any body else encountered this problem??
#3
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Still waiting on anyones sug...
Well I completely removed the valve body assembly and tore it completely apart.
All in all it wasnt too bad, I cleaned it thoroughly an re-installed it and changed both filters, refilled it with the proper fluid etc.
Fired it up, she jumped right into gear no problem, it does act an sound like it tries to find the gear then catches, gonna do the cable ajustment when it cools off an see if that helps.
Drove it for almost 20 something miles an it was shifting firm with no problems an the rpm's were nice an low.
Then the tac began to flutter a bit when I would give it gas an it seemed to be slipping a bit, so I ran another scan on it while it was driving an the same frekin code came back up...0740 except this time it said pending!
What the crap is a pending code???
This is my only form of transport and it has already cost me 2.5 days off of work.....argue!!!!!
Well I completely removed the valve body assembly and tore it completely apart.
All in all it wasnt too bad, I cleaned it thoroughly an re-installed it and changed both filters, refilled it with the proper fluid etc.
Fired it up, she jumped right into gear no problem, it does act an sound like it tries to find the gear then catches, gonna do the cable ajustment when it cools off an see if that helps.
Drove it for almost 20 something miles an it was shifting firm with no problems an the rpm's were nice an low.
Then the tac began to flutter a bit when I would give it gas an it seemed to be slipping a bit, so I ran another scan on it while it was driving an the same frekin code came back up...0740 except this time it said pending!
What the crap is a pending code???
This is my only form of transport and it has already cost me 2.5 days off of work.....argue!!!!!
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#4
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Near Sacramento,ca
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Pending means, it hasn't gone into a active or store code. P0740 is a torque converter code.have you notice if the torque converter has gone into lock up? I do have the pdf files for the transmission code you are getting.If you would me to send you a copy of the pdf file, i'll just need an email to send it too.I am also going to post again after a check for TSB's.Also have you ck for any software updates?
#6
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It appears to have gone into lock up this time, the other day it acted like it wouldnt, it just slipped non stop about 3 to 700 rpm higher, an would never catch.
It also slips real bad if you just try to cold start it an go too, you really gotta burp the gas to get it to get into gear.
Software updates for the scanner or my tcm??
I havent had it flashed lately.
My car was stollen back in feb. the thieves put almost 1k miles on it, used it in a slew of robberies an ended in a high speed chase over 125mph across three counties in Ga.
It actually made an episode of COPS..!!!
I would appreciate any info you could pass on my way for sure.
It also slips real bad if you just try to cold start it an go too, you really gotta burp the gas to get it to get into gear.
Software updates for the scanner or my tcm??
I havent had it flashed lately.
My car was stollen back in feb. the thieves put almost 1k miles on it, used it in a slew of robberies an ended in a high speed chase over 125mph across three counties in Ga.
It actually made an episode of COPS..!!!
I would appreciate any info you could pass on my way for sure.
Last edited by Outlaw Red; 09-18-2010 at 11:54 PM. Reason: accidently hit return
#7
Join Date: Apr 2007
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#8
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I guess Im gonna need to start pricing a converter, yeah....
There isnt but an inch of room btw the firewall an the bell housing, surely you dont have to pull the whole motor an trans out together to do this.
Argue I wish I could find a 5.9 an trans from a wrecked dodge I could grab the computer an harness an make work, Simpler transmission an motor all the way around in my book.
There isnt but an inch of room btw the firewall an the bell housing, surely you dont have to pull the whole motor an trans out together to do this.
Argue I wish I could find a 5.9 an trans from a wrecked dodge I could grab the computer an harness an make work, Simpler transmission an motor all the way around in my book.
#10
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REMOVAL
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove any necessary skid plates. (Refer to 13 - FRAMES & BUMPERS/FRAME/TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE - REMOVAL)
Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment.
Remove the rear propeller shaft
Remove the front propeller shaft, if necessary.
Remove the engine to transmission collar (Transmission Collar).
Remove the exhaust support bracket from the rear of the transmission.
Disconnect and lower or remove any necessary exhaust components.
Remove the starter motor.
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
Disengage the output speed sensor connector from the output speed sensor (Disconnect Output Speed Sensor).
Disengage the input speed sensor connector from the input speed sensor (Disconnect Input Speed Sensor).
Disengage the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly connector from the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly (Disconnect Transmission Solenoid/TRS Assembly).
Disengage the line pressure sensor connector from the line pressure sensor (Disconnect Line Pressure Sensor).
Disconnect gearshift cable from transmission manual valve lever (Transmission Shift Cable).
Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at transmission fittings and clips.
Disconnect the transmission vent hose from the transmission.
Support rear of engine with safety stand or jack.
Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember (Rear Transmission Crossmember).
Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame and remove crossmember.
Remove transfer case.
Remove all remaining converter housing bolts.
Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
Hold torque converter in place during transmission removal.
Lower transmission and remove (Remove Transmission) assembly from under the vehicle.
To remove torque converter, carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove any necessary skid plates. (Refer to 13 - FRAMES & BUMPERS/FRAME/TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE - REMOVAL)
Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment.
Remove the rear propeller shaft
Remove the front propeller shaft, if necessary.
Remove the engine to transmission collar (Transmission Collar).
Remove the exhaust support bracket from the rear of the transmission.
Disconnect and lower or remove any necessary exhaust components.
Remove the starter motor.
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
Disengage the output speed sensor connector from the output speed sensor (Disconnect Output Speed Sensor).
Disengage the input speed sensor connector from the input speed sensor (Disconnect Input Speed Sensor).
Disengage the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly connector from the transmission solenoid/TRS assembly (Disconnect Transmission Solenoid/TRS Assembly).
Disengage the line pressure sensor connector from the line pressure sensor (Disconnect Line Pressure Sensor).
Disconnect gearshift cable from transmission manual valve lever (Transmission Shift Cable).
Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at transmission fittings and clips.
Disconnect the transmission vent hose from the transmission.
Support rear of engine with safety stand or jack.
Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember (Rear Transmission Crossmember).
Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame and remove crossmember.
Remove transfer case.
Remove all remaining converter housing bolts.
Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
Hold torque converter in place during transmission removal.
Lower transmission and remove (Remove Transmission) assembly from under the vehicle.
To remove torque converter, carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission.