1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

? on front wheel bearin hub repl,

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Old 03-22-2011, 11:54 PM
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Default ? on front wheel bearin hub repl,

I have ordered these parts,http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-beari...HS00032/208760
and I think I can replace them myself ok, but I am a bit limited for tools, and this is my only ride, so when it comes apart, I have no way to run to the store and get stuff, so can anyone tell me what size socket I will need for the Axle Shaft Nut, I have some tools, but I cant go spend $$$ on what I dont need. Oh 2003 Durango 5.9 slt awd. Thanks guys.
 

Last edited by neilb; 03-23-2011 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:42 AM
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I just pulled off my wheel bearing assembly over the weekend. For the axle nut, it took me a 32mm socket(I used one made for an impact gun), extension bar, breaker bar, and a 72" galvanized pipe to use as leverage. The bolts on the hearing hub were 13/16ths if I remember correctly. I also have a 2003 slt.
 

Last edited by jaster; 03-23-2011 at 08:47 AM.
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for that, I dont think I have a 32mm socket, so I can buy that before I find myself stuck without a ride to Autozone.
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by neilb
Thanks for that, I dont think I have a 32mm socket, so I can buy that before I find myself stuck without a ride to Autozone.
Get an impact socket, those hub nuts can easily be hard enough to break loose that you could destroy a regular socket in the process, even without air tools.

An impact socket that big can be pricey. If you don't see yourself using it often, most auto parts stores will rent you one.

(I broke two regular ones before I finally rented a set of large impact sockets from O'Reilly. Wasn't even a "rental", just a loan. They charged me the full price for the set on my credit card as a deposit, but when I brought them back they refunded everything, so it ended up costing me nothing to borrow the socket from them. A standard socket is strong enough when putting it back together, just not for taking it apart.)
 

Last edited by coreybv; 03-23-2011 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 03-23-2011, 02:56 PM
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Make sure as stated you have a hell of a breaker bar. I too used a 6' iron pipe to use for leverage to break the bolt. Other than breaking the bolt and torquing it back to specs, it's a pretty straight forward/not too complicating job. Good luck!
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 04:36 PM
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Thanks for the heads up guys, looks like that sucker will be tight then.
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:03 PM
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180 ft lbs. (iirc)
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:26 PM
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An old trick I sometimes use for tight bolts is a long breaker bar, get a helper to hold the socket end, and put a jack under the handle, I,ll let you know how I get on, thanks again guys.
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:25 PM
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I just stick a screw driver in the rotor vents to keep it from turning and I believe I used a 1 1/4 inch socket for my axel bolt. I just find all the extentions in my toolbox, connect them all together with a socket on the end that fits over my breaker bar and there you go, one redneck extreme breaker bar there, the just stand/jump on the other end to get that bolt loose, the bolt won't snap but will slowly turn.

Lately I've just been using my spare tire jack to push up on the end of my breaker bar to get that bolt loose, might have to hammer the bar when you see it bow. Works great for me.

As for the wheel hubs, there's 3 bolts on the back of the knuckle holding it on, just make sure you have a short stubby 13/16th socket to get back there because the cv axel boot was in my way. And that's all there is to it, while you're in there check your ball joints if you haven't gotten them replaced, same with your tie rods, cv axels should be fine. Your 03 might be different though, I'm speaking from doing this on my 98 D.
 
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:20 PM
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FYI, Plumbing section of Lowes. They have 6ft heavy galvanized steel pipes for somewhere around $12.00, thats what I used. That bolt gave me 30 minutes of hell before I got in the wife's car and went to Lowes for the pipe.
 


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