She overheated, again!
Give up already! This never ending thread is killing the forum. I don't even logon very often anymore because it's just the same old **** everyday! Either fix it, then report back with the solution, or get rid of the f 'ing POS. You obviously don't possess the skills to handle the challenge at hand.
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Give up already! This never ending thread is killing the forum. I don't even logon very often anymore because it's just the same old **** everyday! Either fix it, then report back with the solution, or get rid of the f 'ing POS. You obviously don't possess the skills to handle the challenge at hand.
I for one have found the overheating "saga" very enlightening! Why, just reading HOW MANY times a new "fix" might work has been most entertaining!
OK, seriously now. I gotta agree somewhat with samnbensdad..... engine cooling ain't exactly rocket science. If your coolant level drops, it's going SOMEWHERE. There are only two choices here.... on the ground (i.e. a leak) or into the engine (i.e. a gasket/crack). It'll never work right as long as one of these things is happening. Period. End of discussion.
I think you've already wasted the time / money it would have taken to bring it somewhere and get it diagnosed by a pro. No insult intended, but at some point you've got to admit that you've reached your limits.
I'm outa here.....
Bob
The pressure tester you're talking about is it where you use the testers cap to replace the radiator cap and than as the engine warms see how the pressure acts?
I've done this test. I pumped the tester up to 20 psi roughly and once it got up to temp it slowly built pressure in the cooling system as i was told it should? So the pressure test on the cooling system came out normal.
I did this test when i did the hydrocarbon test. about a month ago maybe?
I've done this test. I pumped the tester up to 20 psi roughly and once it got up to temp it slowly built pressure in the cooling system as i was told it should? So the pressure test on the cooling system came out normal.
I did this test when i did the hydrocarbon test. about a month ago maybe?
yeah guess i should've been more clear. It was up to temp, we watched it for about ten mins and the pressure slowly rose. you had to really watch it to notice it was slowly building. But there were no fluctuations or irregularities. it didn't drop suddenly or rise suddenly.
I was reluctant to post back after what samnbensdad said. I figured the next time i would post would be when i found the problem or when it went away.
I was reluctant to post back after what samnbensdad said. I figured the next time i would post would be when i found the problem or when it went away.
yeah guess i should've been more clear. It was up to temp, we watched it for about ten mins and the pressure slowly rose. you had to really watch it to notice it was slowly building. But there were no fluctuations or irregularities. it didn't drop suddenly or rise suddenly.
I was reluctant to post back after what samnbensdad said. I figured the next time i would post would be when i found the problem or when it went away.
I was reluctant to post back after what samnbensdad said. I figured the next time i would post would be when i found the problem or when it went away.
Biff87ta,
I brought the Durango in to a new local shop for diagnostics. Figured i wasn't seeing the problem for lack of knowledge or however you'd describe it. But I wasn't as suspicious of things as I should have been. The problem was an obvious one. The culprit was the water pump. It wasn't completely gone it is just weak. That's why the D would overheat sitting in traffic and when i start driving the increase of rpm would get the water pump moving a bit quicker which is why the temp would drop back down.
So I'm having the shop replace the water pump. Original cost of parts labor was $402. Got him down to $350. Getting it done Monday.
This should have been figured out long ago. Thanks for dealing with my repetitive questions guys. =/
Edit: The shop is Honest 1 Auto Care. 3 year 36,000 mile warranty on parts and labor.
I brought the Durango in to a new local shop for diagnostics. Figured i wasn't seeing the problem for lack of knowledge or however you'd describe it. But I wasn't as suspicious of things as I should have been. The problem was an obvious one. The culprit was the water pump. It wasn't completely gone it is just weak. That's why the D would overheat sitting in traffic and when i start driving the increase of rpm would get the water pump moving a bit quicker which is why the temp would drop back down.
So I'm having the shop replace the water pump. Original cost of parts labor was $402. Got him down to $350. Getting it done Monday.
This should have been figured out long ago. Thanks for dealing with my repetitive questions guys. =/
Edit: The shop is Honest 1 Auto Care. 3 year 36,000 mile warranty on parts and labor.
Finally a conclusion to this thread, I remember this was one of the first threads I ever got involved in heavily. A weak pump makes sense though. $350 does sound a bit steep, a good pump $80+labor $80hrx2hrs=$240+/- $30. Very glad you figured it out though, I would be freakin' out over an overheating issue, oh wait I was when my fan clutch went bad. I was a neurotic mess for a week.




