Weren't trans cooler optional, because mine is in the radiator. So would he then have to check that too?

 

There's a harbor freight fairly close by. So I'll do that. yeah i saw one about that price from advanced auto as well. i might have to replace it. And sorry ac condenser, I'm still learning so idk what I'm talking about most of the time.

but one last thing noted guys every time i air out the radiator with the bleeder valve the car runs fine for roughly 1-2 months. no problems whatsoever. just wanna throw that out there if anyone else has any ideas.

one last thought dont coolant flushes clean out all the rust and crap stuck in a radiator/cooling system? maybe not all but most? so if it is the radiator thats blocked up somewhere because its not leaking than shouldn't it start acting up sooner? idk

I'll see if i can find a infrared digital thermometer close by if not i'll call harbor freight. And i'll get back to you guys tomorrow night with the results of that.

thanks

 

Yes, they are in the radiator. Not sure what I was thinking. Anyhow, a clog should cause a significant deviation from the temperature gradient.

 

You are leaking coolant somewhere. You are not leaking much and it is most likely evaporating off before you see any drips or smell anything.

My 87 Monte Carlo will do the same thing about every two months if you do not keep an eye on the coolant level. The end tanks seep coolant and have since I bought the car three years ago.

Keep a closer eye on your coolant tank and try burping the system sooner. A few minute worth of your time each week may keep you from spending big money.

P.S. when looking for a radiator try putting part numbers into ebay and searching. I saved over 100 dollars and got a better brand part when I was shopping for an AC condensor for the wifes caddy.

 

Hydrocarbon test be damned.... I *still* go with a leaking head gasket somewhere. If there are no leaks and the system has been burped multiple times (and topped off with fluid), runs for 2 months and then overheats again only to find that there is more air in the system then the fluid is going *SOMEWHERE*!

Get the coolant system pressure tested. It'll give you a DEFINATIVE answer on a leak, and you can troubleshoot better from there. I'm surprised that they didn;t suggest that when the radiator flush was done.

Bob

 

Biff85ta, i guess thats possible. that its evaporating before i can see anything if its a small leak.

Bobman, are you talking about a pressure test on each cylinder or on the radiator? I rented a pressure tester for the radiator when i did the hydrocarbon test. That came out normal too.

I'm gonna get an "infrared digital thermometer" today. And we'll see how that goes as shrp suggests to do.

 

have you replaced the radiator cap? maybe your sucking in air from a bad cap. Also my 5.9L rango used to run hot, when i went to put in a new radiator i noticed there was alotta crud built up in the fins, i had pressure washered it before but apparently the crud built up between the rad and the AC condensor (not visible through the front) and somehow i wasnt getting it out when i pressure washed it. something to consider...

 

Honestly no, i havent replaced the radiator cap. I know i should because they're 5 bucks but i got lazy thinking the problem was solved after 5-6 weeks problem free. Also no i never pressure washed the radiator either.

Since pressure build up inside the radiator wouldnt a bad cap leak air not suck it in?

Hey shrp, when i get the thermometer today would it be sufficient enough to test the top portion of the radiator only? also how much of a difference in temp should i look for?

 

No, that would be a compression check on each cylinder. The one you rented is what I meant. When you set it up and pressurized the coolant system, how high did you pressurize it? Also, how long did you let it set under pressure?

When your engine overheated this time, was the coolant level any lower than before? Bottom line is that if the coolant is lower, then it's going somewhere. If it dropped enough to allow the engine to overheat, it's more than just a couple ounces that are missing.

Checking the radiator temp is a great suggestion, and you may very well have some blockage in it that's contributing to the problem, but if the fluid is low again then blockage is not the SOURCE of your problem....

Bob

 

When coolant heats up the pressure builds and pushs fluid over to overflow tank, as it cools it sucks fluid back again, is your cap has bad seals it will suck in air instead, probably just alittle at a time. After awhile of heating and cooling those air pockets could cause an overheat condition. Spend the $5-$10 on a new cap, its certaining the cheapest solution so far.