Well yea, but the books calls for the hours. $350 with parts/labor is kinda high but sounds reasonable in my book. Now I wouldn't pay that, but for people that can't do the job then you gotta do what ya gotta do. I'd replace it for the parts cash, but I can do the work. It's a trade off ya know?

 

Well if it was something like the radiator I'd try changing it myself. But i'm not exactly the most experienced. The water pumps pretty much in the center and it'd be a tough job for me to try and learn on by myself.

Yeah 350 sounds steep to me too but its better then 400 and yeah I'll try reasoning with them when i go there today. Idk. Maybe call another shop for a quote to compare to theres and see if that helps.

Its a relief to find out what the issue was though.


EDIT: I called another local shop which said they would do the job for 300 cash. But the lady on the phone also said its a 12 month 12k mile warranty and that she buys from multiple vendors. whichever has the part for cheapest. cheapest price part and a 1 year warranty has me leaning no. Also the original shop, honest 1 said he cant match 300 since they did diagnostics for free but they have a 3yr 36k mile warranty which i like better.

So i'm just gonna go with the 350 price. its only 50 bucks right? =/

 

Yep,

Just because it's cheaper doesn't mean it's better. However you don't want to pay too much at the same time. When you spend more then you should you usually end up with a better product, which is simply a waste of money. However when you spend too little and expect the it to act the same you are usually shorted.


Quote;
"It is unwise to spend to much, but it is even more unwise to spend too little and expect the same output."

 

100% true hydra. Well job is done caught up on some sleep in the lobby. Now I'll give it some time and see if she acts normally.

Oh and I'm just gonna throw this out there for you guys. The guys at the shop who did diagnostics said the reason they believed it was a water pump was because they didnt see much any flow through the upper hose when idling and saw some flow when the rpm rose. they said radiator temp checked out so it wouldnt be a blockage. and the pressure checked out so there was no internal leak and they couldnt find an external leak.

it was either bad flow from the water pump or a funny t stat but he said the heater temp was really hot blowing out of the heater so it probably isn't a t stat. which was the first thing that was changed.

thanks for the help guys.

 

What? The heater is open to the block, only the radiator gets flow from the t-stat.

 

A wise man once said "If beer and women are not the answer, then you are asking the wrong questions"

 

True. Also, doesn't the water pump drive the flow of antifreeze through the heater core too? Maybe the tstat was inserted upside down. LOL.

 

Yeah the pump pushes water through the heater core also.....

 

I'm still stuck on the "beer" comment.

 

Well it was overheating before the t stat was changing and it was over heating after. plus my a/c and heat work and both upper and lower hose are hot. he was saying the heat blowing from the vents were scorching which they were really hot. idk we'll see what happens.