I found one at www.rockauto.com for like $110, but it depends on which system you have.

http://www.partstrain.com/store/inde...0&Ntt=Radiator has one for like $90


Just look around, google can be your best friend. As for your money issues, we all have those but you wanted the fix and we gave it to ya. You could always try a junk yard to save a few bucks.

 

yeah i spend time looking for deals on google all the time. Though i dont trust the quality always of those cheap brands. I might spend the extra bucks. I'm going to go get the thermometer now. I'll hopefully update you guys tonight.

 

With the radiators cheap or performance brands all build them the same way on these unless you do a universal performance custom one. They come with a aluminum core and plastic end caps as that is standard OEM. I don't know about the 4.7L radiators, but the 5.2L and 5.9L are 2 row (core) and that is all you can get unless custom ordered and built. I would suggest the same thing goes for the 4.7L, however the only known thing I have seen on them is the heavy duty cooling package ones and those have a extra transmission cooler attached just like the OEM style.


I don't think there is going to be any difference, but I too like the name brands.....IMHO

 

Buy a good radiator cap. The ones from the chain parts stores can be bad out of the package. I have had them brand new not corrcectly fit the neck on a radiator because the tabs where not bent to the proper places.

 

Hydra, that makes sense. i just want to know what i put in is good quality. my buddy has a Mitsubishi with a horribly placed alternator. paid a shop to put in a brand new alternator and the new alternator was bad straight from the box.

How would you know whats good quality vs bad quality as far as radiator caps go?

And SHRP! i did the thermometer test after driving roughly 4 miles with the temp up to normal.

on the top of the radiator on the drivers side it was roughly 149.6 degrees and it steadily got less and less as it went across and on the passenger side it was about 91.2 degrees.

so moving across from driver side to passenger side it was:

149.6 degrees 145 degrees 139 degrees 135 degrees 129 degrees 121 degrees 114 degrees 105 degrees 98 degrees than to 91 degrees.

so it steadily drops going across which i read was normal?

 

Both times I have gotten lucky and found another stock cap I forgot I had or was on the parts car. I would try the dealer for the cap.

I think you have either a bad cap as in a slight pressure bleed off or the end tanks are seeping on your radiator. This is however a conclusion I have come to from your posts and never seeing the truck in person. It is harder to spot such a thing on plastic tanked aluminum radiators than my old copper one in my monte as the antifreeze remove the paint and corrodes the brass/copper.

 

The gradient looks good but I would expect the numbers to start a little higher. If it were me, I would keep the thermometer in the truck to check the radiator when it actually starts to overheat.
Honestly, I'm starting to agree with Bob; something is letting air in. As Biff stated, a high quality radiator cap is a logical start.

 

Yeah i keep the thermometer with me now. we'll see what happens.

And I'll call the stealership Monday hopefully they dont charge an arm or a leg for a cap. I mean 5 bucks at oreilly from a competitor brand vs 30 bucks or something at the dealer.

but would a faulty cap let air into the system? i'd assume it'd let air/pressure out?

 

If it can let air out, it can let air in. The system is under pressure when hot, but when it cools it can create a vacuum, sucking air in if the seal is weak. It seems like a bit of a long stretch but it is a relatively cheap option.

 

Thats true enough. I'll try a cap, cant hurt any right? I mean 30 bucks sounds better than 300 bucks. well its time for sleep lol i work 8am to 4pm tomorrow. so tomorrow after work once the durango sits out in the 90 degree heat all day than i drive her home i'll try the thermometer readings again and post back what it is.