Burp the system it could take 5 to 6 times before all air is out

 

yeah i had the bleeder valve open for a good while. after i topped of the radiator line with prestone 50/50 and the overflow to the full mark i closed the radiator cap and opened up the bleeder valve there along the upper radiator line and let it sit for a good 20 mins open. that way as the coolant cycles through any air bubbles could escape.

As normal habits for her go waiting up to a month would not be long enough to say I'm in the clear as this has been a thing where i can go 20-30 days just fine than the problem reoccurs.

 

next time it starts overheating lets some air out lol!!!!!

 

Thats, what I've been doing. for the longest time i thought she kept getting air leaked into her cooling system. but now I'm not so sure lol just have to wait and see now.

 

Sorry guys,

She over heated again today. not nearly as bad as before just close to 75% but it moved noticeably past the middle point.

Its been almost two months since she over heated last. I've run tests to check the head gasket the blue chemical turning yellow test to check for carbon exhaust gases in the system.

I've put in a new thermostat. the air and heat both work fine.

I've had the cooling system flushed professionally.

I've even taken a half hour to burp the radiator on a slight slope half of the time with the rad cap off than the second half using the bleeder valve.

One thing i did notice was the top portion near the drivers side of the radiator was noticeably warmer than the top portion of the passenger side. not a HUGE difference but enough to feel.

Idk if that helps any? Maybe a bad radiator but would that cause it to get air bubbles/air in the system? And would a bad radiator cause it to over heat once or twice ever month to 2 months?

sorry i'm sure at this point i'm getting annoying. but at least i didnt make a new thread?

Also there is no leaking from anywhere at all.

 

based you what you just said about the radiator im going to tell you what to do before doing or talking to or listening to anyone else, and you are going to do it before asking us any more questions (unless you have a question about how to perform this task)


you are going to go and buy yourself an infrared digital thermometer, and you are going to run the engine till its up to temp, then you are going to get out, open the hood and check the radiator temperature with your new thermometer, the temperature should change evenly across the radiator, if it doesnt then your radiator is clogged

it is possible that you are just putting more stress on the cooling system every now and then and that is what is making the truck heat up.

(you can also post to answer this question)
have you done anything different from the norm, but consistent every time it overheats (pull a trailer, sit in traffic for a long time, ect)??

 

I got an easier way to most likely take care of this issue Sharps,


Just replace the damn radiator and call it a day!

 

I does sound like the radiator since you've everything else but that.

 

Shrp, where can i buy an infrared digital thermometer? Also no i dont haul a trailer or boat never drive freeway highway so I'm never sitting in traffic.

Also for the most part only the very top half of the radiator is reachable since the heater core? is in front of it. is that fine to check the temp of it?

Hydra i work for 7.32 dollars an hour and the most hours i've gotten in a week are maybe 30 hours. my average two weekly income is maybe 250 bucks? with gas insurance phone bill etc thrown in not much is left lol

i dont make enough money to buy big things. though i do have roughly 200 bucks right now saved up (for that damned fuel pump, which i probably wont be buying anytime soon)and my next pay check i can probably make it 300 without running into financial problems so i might actually buy a radiator.

Hydra i found a Murray 431418 radiator for the 4.7l durango from O'Reilly for 200 bucks. is this a good price and good brand?

 

I would go to harbor freight, if you have one close by. Also, that's not the heater core. It's either the ac condensor or transmission cooler.
You can a radiator at auto zone for $182.