Dealer rad cap should be between $11 and $15 dollars

 

Well, 11-15 bucks isn't to bad.

 

as someone else already stated above, the gradiant looks good from side to side. and everyone has explained the potential cap issue correctly, (sorry i havnt been around, our internet died thurs afternoon and just came back this morning )

 

Well i'll change the cap asap. also after my car sitting on in the 93 degree weather with full sun constantly than driving it home 4 miles or so i checked the temp again. its a little different this time.

top drivers side was about 165 degrees, middle was about 120 degrees and the far passenger side was about 110 degrees. so it was a little different from before but i think its still fairly normal since the temp difference from side to side is about the same still.

I'll change the cap this week and air out the system. Than in a month or two if it does over heat i'll let you guys know. Hopefully we can call it a day with the cap!

 

I would keep a close eye on the coolant level in the overflow until you are sure of what is going on.

 

yeah the overflow didnt spill over so as far as i can see everything is dry. once i bleed the system she drives good for about a month this past time it was two months worry free sorta.

 

I was just saying to keep an eye on the level and make sure the overfow does not go dry.

 

Ok will do. never thought about that.

 

Biff85ta, the reservoir/overflow went dry. checked it today. Almost bone dry.

Went to the stealership today since today was payday, 19 bucks for a rad cap. ordered one should be here tomorrow.

another thing while driving today (good amount of driving total, close to 20 miles) When i would stop park and shut the durango off and than 5 mins later or so when i start her back up the engine temp gauge would go above half/normal. than when i start driving it would move back down to normal. I noticed it do this three times when i went to pick up my pay stub, when i stopped at my school and than again at the dealer.

Its weird, any idea why its doing this? this is completely new as far as i've seen. So basically....

I drive. turn off car, when i start back up she is running hotter than she should noticeably past half but not enough to get super worried. did this three times.

when i got home i left her running turned the heat on full and loosened up the bleeder valve and every few secs air bubbles were coming out. did this for a good 10-15 mins. kept the bleeder open after i shut her off.

Any new ideas? Will be replacing rad cap tomorrow. Any ideas why it was heating up higher than normal after shutting off and why the reservoir would go dry?

 

Mine does this to, it is because the of the temp sensor location. The water in the radiator cools but for a short time the engine will heat the water in the block higher without the cooler water from the radiator moving in. After 15-20min of being shut off mine will be a 210 again but immediately, within 3min, mine will say 240 when restarted. Hope this helps.