New to site, but been looking at threads for a long time. hydroshocker shares some great info!!!

I bought a 00 durango SLT. 5.2L 4x4 auto (44re) with 157K miels, knowing the transmission was shot. the oil was tar, and had about 14 qts in it when i pulled the transmisison (not including the TQ.)
i rebuilt the transmission from one end to other, clutches, bands, sprags, seals, gaskets, plugs, valvebody transgo shift kit, new TQ etc. about $470 total all from ebay stores.
problem is, when installed it leaked about 2 cups from either the TQ or the transmission when mating it to the block when installing it.???

2nd issue: i have no reverse or neutral. i thought the rear band was too tight so i re-adjsuted it today. same results.
when i pulled the shifter cable from the shift arm at the transmission and manually shifted the transmisison thru the gears this is the reults:

park- works
reverse. lights on no movement unless reving the engine a bit, and it wants to creep forward.
neutral- dont exist, transmission seems to lock up, cant roll the rig, but can start the engine. cant get it out of 4x4 low either.
drive- works or appears to cant tell if its shifting or not, I have only driven it maybe 300'
2nd manual- seems to work
1st manual- seems to work.

any help is appreciated as we dont have the $$ for a shop to fix this, and winter is here!! wife hates driving the prius in the snow..
we are able to get the rig in a family members shop this coming weekend to try to figure this out, and insite and help is wonderful...

 

I haven't rebuilt many transmissions, but I think I would disconnect the shift linkage and TV cable and re adjust them from scratch to start. Wandering about the leak with the other symptoms though... the TC was fully seated in the pump, right?

 

I'm almost sure it was fully seated in the pump. i could not get the trans to mate to the block untill i had rotated the TQ just right to engage the pump, then like magic it all slid together.

how are the cables adjustedand where? i cant seem to find any linkage or spots to adjust it at. the manual i have dont show it or mention it.

would it be possible for the "rooster comb" on the valve body to be 1 position off? say when its supposed to be in neutral, its actually in drive? i know the arm is properly set to the manual position valve on the valve body, but could i be overlooking something there?

OR someone here mentioned that the TQ could be the wrong spline count for the transmission? if it was, say a 23 instead of a 21? it could have leaked the oil out the front during install, but if it was the wrong spline count, the rig would not move at all. COrrect?

 

Cable Linkage
The following procedure applies to automatic transmission–equipped models fitted with a shift linkage. For cable–operated models, see below.
1. Check linkage adjustment by starting engine in PARK and NEUTRAL.
2. Engine must start in both positions, but no other.
3. If performance is not correct, the park/neutral switch is probably at fault.
4. Shift the transmission into PARK.
5. Release the cable adjuster locknut (underneath the power brake booster) to unlock the cable.
6. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
7. Slide the cable eyelet off the transmission shift lever.
8. Verify the transmission shift lever is in the PARK detent by moving the lever fully rearward to the last detent position.
9. Verify the positive engagement of the transmission park lock by attempting to rotate the driveshaft. The shaft will not rotate when the park lock is engaged.
10. Slide the cable eyelet onto the transmission shift lever.
11. Lower the engine and check engine starting, which should be in PARK and NEUTRAL only.
12. Lock the shift cable by pressing the cable adjuster clamp down until it snaps into place.
Rod Linkage

The following procedure applies to automatic transmission–equipped models fitted with a shift linkage. For cable–operated models, see below.
1. Check the linkage adjustment by starting engine in PARK and NEUTRAL.
2. Engine must start in both positions, but no other.
3. If performance is not correct, the park/neutral switch is probably at fault.
4. Check linkage and replace any worn or bent component. Do NOT attempt adjustment if any components are loose, worn or damaged. Tighten all fasteners before attempting adjustment.
5. Replace the grommet securing the shift rod or torque rod in place if either rod was removed from the grommet. Remove the old grommet as necessary and use suitable pliers to install the new grommet.
6. Shift the transmission into PARK.
7. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
8. Loosen the lockbolt in the front shift rod adjusting swivel.
9. Ensure that the shift rod slides freely in the swivel. Lubricate the parts as necessary.
10. Move the shift lever fully rearward to the PARK detent.
11. Center the adjusting swivel on the shift rod.
12. Tighten the swivel lockbolt to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
13. Verify the gearshift and linkage operation.
Throttle Linkage

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and shift into PARK.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Disconnect the cable end from the attachment stud on the throttle body. Carefully slide the cable off the stud. Do NOT pull or pry the cable off.
4. Verify that the transmission throttle lever is in the idle (full forward) position. The n be sure the lever on the throttle body is at curb idle position.
5. Insert a small screwdriver under the edge of the retaining clip and remove the retraining clip.
6. Center the cable end on attachment stud to within 0.04 in. (1mm).

NOTE:
Be sure that as the cable is pulled forward and centered on the throttle lever stud, the cable housing moves smoothly with the cable. Due to the angle at which the cable housing enters the spring housing, the cable housing may bind slightly and create an incorrect adjustment.

7. In stall the retaining clip onto the cable housing.
8. Check the cable adjustment. Be sure the transmission throttle lever and lever on the throttle body move simultaneously and as described in the cable adjustment checking procedure.

 

A better exp of the tv cable https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2652744-post7.html

Also I have always removed the TC and installed it on the trans before re installation to insure it's fully seated and I don't damage the seal. Usually giving it a spin while applying light pressure 'till it pops in twice.

 

I looked at that pic, that TV cable looks tight as heck! Mine definitely has slack in it, but it makes the trans shift almost great, guess each car is different! I would follow ZCR's advice, pretty knowledgeable guy right there.

 

I adjusted the cable this morning, didnt help the no reverse, and no neutral problem.
any more ideas? internal? valve body?

 

hopefully the torque converter was fully in place! if not it could be jammed against the pump. try pulling it and resetting the torque converter it shouldnt of leaked from the front with the torque converter installed fully. if it is jammed against it, and it didnt do any damage! I learned this from experience years ago when i did it!

 

That's what I was thinking. Maybe give Master Tech a pm, he's the real trans guy to talk to.

 

gave up, pulled the rebuilt one, set it in a cold dark corner, and got a replacement trans with warranty for $600. installed it, and driving it now!!!