I need some help with my 1999 Durango. Specs are slt 4wd, 5.9, automatic. This past Sunday while driving to Town my truck backfired, shuddered and cut off. Could not get the truck to restart. Had it towed to my house and my dad and I have been trying to work on it. We replaced the pick up in the distributor. Still won't start (it threw the code for the pick up no fire). Now the pick up is working but it still won't start. Dad used his compression tester on each cylinder. Some of the cylinders are working fine some are a little on the low side. Still should not keep the truck from starting. Also checked the fuel pressure. That reads fine. Haven't checked the timing yet. About a year ago (shortly after I bought it) it did something similar. I stopped to get gas and the truck wouldn't start. Now before I got the truck it had sat for about 2 years. So we figured that it needed a tune up. We replaced the the cap, rotor button, pick up, and the silonoid. (In the walmart parking lot) and low and behold it started. We replaced the plugs and wires that weekend. I have been driving the mess out of this truck since. It only has 80,000 miles on it. The plugs now look like they are worn. I plan on changing them and the cap and rotor button. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

First I would check the compression. You could have broken a timing chain, but that's only a guess. Also remove the dist cap and see if the rotor rotate when you try to start. If it doesn't rotate, then timing chain is gone.

 

We did a compression check on all the cylinders some are under performing. We also looked at the rotor button and it is spinning. Still not 100% sure if it hasn't jumped time. I'm going to try and put new tune up parts on it and a fuel pump.

 

If your sure you have fuel pressure then I doubt it's fuel related. I like to see about 50 psi continuous throughout the RPM range.

Next thing to do is look for spark. Remove #1 spark plug, connect the wire, place the end on a good ground (like an intake bolt), now crank it over and watch for spark. If it's week replace the coil, if none then you need to find out why.

If it does spark while cranking then manually turn the engine until it sparks (have the ignition in the run position) then place a screwdriver down #1 plug hole in the head and see if the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC). If it is then look at the distributor rotor (button) and see if it's pointing to #1 wire lug. If it is then the timing is fine.

There is 2 main reasons and engine won't fire, spark or fuel. Once you get that figured out then further diagnostics are needed.

One thing that strikes me, this thing was sitting for 2 years, and they had 10% ethanol fuel it there as most stations have turned over to it under Federal mandate, then there is a lot of crap in the fuel. If you pull the tank then I would install a fuel pump for good measurers. Also check those connections whilst you have it down.

 

When we tested the fuel it would start strong then fade to around 30 psi. The flow back for the pump went bad a few months ago. So I had to prime the engine two or three times every time I started the truck. I no I need to at least change that no matter what. and 2 of the four cylinders are only showing 100 lbs of pressure. So I also need to plan in the future to rebuild the motor.

 

Correct, however to do an adequate compression test the engine needs to be up to operation temperature and the butter fly on the Throttle Body completely open. Then you can do wet and dry compression tests on each cylinder. I would suggest you should have at least 100+ if you did not complete the test this way. Most worn motors are around 105-120 dry but still are viable.

Well your pump is toast and you need to first and foremost replace it. Then we can go from there. You have to drop the tank (which is lite polyurethane) and I would get all the old gas out and rinse the tank with new fuel to get any crap out of it before you install the new pump. Ensure you get the whole unit, not a build up style. Check around, they are expensive and try to find the best deal.

Good luck!

 

I ordered the new Fuel pump today. I will have it tomorrow. So hopefully this at least helps. Thank you for the advice.

 

Got the truck up and running by putting a new coil on it. Still gonna replace the fuel pump tomorrow and plugs. Might even squeeze in a oil change and trace my transmission leak.

 

Sorry, I mistook your mention of "solenoid" your first statement for the actual "coil" which people get confused. I must ask now what "solenoid" you were referring to?


Glad to see your truck is up and running. Concentering you only have 80k on it get it over to a dealer and have them do a transmission filter and fluid change and adjust the bands as you still have the old ATF+3 in there most likely and it breaks down at 60k miles. Take it to a dealer, the reason I say that is to ensure only the correct fluid goes in which most shops will NOT do. Yes it costs a bit more because the real fluid is expensive.

 

I ment coil. On Saturday I pulled the tank down and replaced the pump. I did have some questionable items floating around in the tank, so I did clean it before putting the new pump in. Also ended up having to change the plugs again. The old one looked like they had been in the truck for 5years as a posed to only one. Did an oil change (discovered the rear main seal is leaking), trans service (drain fluids, put in new gasket and filter, and refilled with ATF+4.). Now the truck is running like a dream. Still leaking trans fluid somewhere tho.