I got one of the X shaped fellers, but, found I couldn't get it to fit the lower fitting at the radiator, wasn't enough clearance to get the tool in there..... Another trip to the parts store to get the shorty feller, in aluminum. That one worked perfect, and I still have it.

 

The line disconnect tool isn't something you'll use often, but it's one of those things that pays for itself the first time you use it. A related note, use new O rings when you hook it back together and dip them into some PAG oil to keep from nicking them. They will slip together really smooth when you do that.

 

I used the cheap white plastic ones you see here and they worked great. In this case, I'd say go cheap, cause they work and you'll only use them once or twice.

 

Hi everyone, I'm back with an update. Thanks as usual for the advice and hello to anyone reading the saga. We're nearing the two year mark on this one. Hoping to beat that with a running vehicle.

I replaced the upper transmission coolant line into the radiator. The plastic tool worked fine to remove the old one with a little elbow grease. The new one snapped right in. Getting it lined up to connect to the new radiator, which I have now put in place, was a bit tricky, but it's on there. I didn't realize threads still showed for both lines when connected so I was concerned, but they are both on there and tight. I seem to have lost whatever nuts/parts go onto the condenser on the front, will need to identify those nuts and pick some up. Both hoses are new and connected as well, I'm having some challenges moving the hose ring clamps onto the necks, likely just using the wrong tool.

I'm also a little concerned over the tie-down bar alignment. It seems the right side as you face the truck (drivers side) the radiator sticks out so far the alignment wheel won't fall into place. I think that is because the replacement upper hose is too long and may need trimmed? Additionally, it would appear there are some rubber grommet type pieces that are a part of the tie-down bar that I am missing (you can see the broken one is still partly there on the passenger side of the tie down bar). It looks like I am going to have to source those pieces somewhere as well in order to snugly secure the tie-down bar.

That said, I believe even without securing that, once I decide what to do with this upper radiator hose and finding a better tool to work with those hose clamps (not sure if they even need to be tight to test, but I'm assuming yes, even though the hoses are so wedged in there anyway, it seems like they wouldn't move)...I may soon going to be ready to try and actually start this thing. I replaced so much stuff as a rookie that I'm worried I will blow something up or start a fire, but will hope for the best. I still need to drop the upper reservoir and shield on there and make those connections and then refill the 50/50 and transmisison fluid....and of course eventually solve the tie-down bar issue, but I'm wondering if I might be close to actually turning the engine over and seeing if anything I did actually worked?

Here's some updated photos in case you see anything terrible wrong. I tried to capture most of the areas I have been working.

 

Silly me, that was just a chunk of the old radiator broke off on the passenger side. So these are just some rummer grommets that slide into the radiator plastic U's in the top. I'll lube them up a little and loosen the screws in front which may give me a little flexibility. That said, the front right (drivers side) of the radiator is just pushing out way too far front for the support bar to drop in. I assume maybe it is common to have to cut back a replacement radiator hose? That is likely what I will need to do in order to prevent this radiator from being pushed so far front. After that, assuming it is a success, my next plan is to work on a way to secure all 4 radiator hose clips, drop in the support bar (I may not tighten any screws yet in case there are leaks or issues), and then drop in the upper shield and reconnect the reservoirs.

I don't think I need to worry about the nuts to secure the condenser lines (do I?) since I won't be running any AC or fluid though them. However if it's a good idea to secure and tighten those lines I'll just need to find whatever the heck it is that goes on those top screws to secure them on (must have lost that in the crash).

Feel a little better now that I realized that the chunk on the passenger side was just old plastic. What a dummy I am!

 

You hit a deer. It's expected that things probably won't line up perfectly and may need some coaxing. I've been known to use a come-along to persuade parts into place. Since you hit the left side, it might be pushed in and make it seem like the rad hose is too long. Also looks like the radiator hose clamp isn't on properly (in case you didn't realize). A little dielectric grease always helps those hoses get into place all the way.

 

Thanks for the reply! So good to hear from you again.

oddly enough despite the hit being on the left side the radiator hose is too long on the right side (driver). You would expect the reverse I agree. I’m going to check reviews on the part I got to see if others had to trim it to size. It’s in there so tight it’s pushing the radiator out way too far to meet with the top support bar. I’ll get a better photo.

I figured I’d be sit to get everything lined up right before I put the hose clamps on. I’ll apply some lubricant to them on the outside as you suggested. Been having some trouble getting a good grip on the lower hose at the engine side.

 

Invaluable piece of equipment. Trying to do those with pliers, or channel locks, is a major pain..... (and sometimes, quite literally. )

And yes, trimming of radiator hoses isn't unusual.

 

Thanks guys. I'll buy or borrow a tool. I'm having too much trouble with that lower radiator hose with a pilers. I'll grease it up too. Need to get under the truck to plug the electric fan back in anyway but don't think there's access to that lower hose under there.

Other than that, looks like I am just two nuts away from testing (without securing the upper fan shroud or radiator support, which I figure I will do if it actually runs). I need to determine the type and size of nuts I need to secure the condenser. Not sure how I lost those or if I ever had them, they may have broken off the old condenser in the crash (likely). New condenser didn't come with any. Should be easy enough to find.

I filled the power steering fluid, did not add any transmission fluid yet (assume that is not critical at key turn but needs filled soon after start). It looks like I will need to have 50/50 ready to go in and more ready after it runs a certain while and there is an air bubble process with it. Will have to read up on that as I want to make sure I'm not hurting the engine when I test it. Also, I think the 50/50 goes in at the radiator cap and not the overflow reservoir if I'm not mistaken. My replacement radiator hose cap seems to turn loose but then not pop off. Am I missing a trick? I don't want to break it.

If this thing runs at all it will be a miracle, let alone runs without any leaks.

Getting close now...

 

I wouldn’t run it with the tranny dry. Supertech ATF+4 at Walmart is the cheapest you’ll find and just as good as any other. I run it as PS fluid too.